driveability

Great picture ! Thank you so much ! I'll file that one.


I did find some info on the driver side, all my pictures show only two lines on that electrical switch / solenoid.

driveability

Looking at the diagram, I have an open vacuum line which looks like "B" in the diagram. Looks like a vent to me. What say you ?

marktan

Off hand, does anyone know the part number to replace all the rigid plastic vacuum line between the diverter valve and the turbos, or can silicone vacuum line be safely used in its place? Off hand what is the internal diameter needed?

I am thinking of replacing all the turbo vacuum lines as preventave measure (and I actually think she's not running as strong as she used to) as I recently corrected a P0410 secondary air issue that was caused by one of these lines being cracked and leaking (replaced with silicone tubing...but I don't think it builds as much pressure as the turbo side).

Thanks!

driveability

I have been lacking boost for some time. 15 lbs is all I get and I have to really have to thump the car to get that. I get 1/2 bar quick but have to hammer the throttle to move to 1 bar. I inspected the vacuum lines and found no brakes but tonight I decided to pinch off the vacuum line which feeds the waist gates. I pinched the line off and went for a soft drive. I did notice my boost push past 15 lbs with little trouble. I'm not going to push things driving with a pinched W/G line. My guess is the solenoid is frozen open. I'll need to do more investigation. Nice to know its making the correct boost, and is just a control issue. If you look at the picture/ diagram in the prior post its the "Y31 / 5 solenoid and related vacuum supply which I cut off.

WHTEVO

Where exactly are you guys tapping for a boost reading? The test line at the back side of the cooler on the left side when looking at the engine that's capped? I would rather not cut any hard lines. I am going to try and do a boost reading this weekend just so i know where mine is at although it feels to run just fine.

Aaron

shardul

iTrader: (1)

check all the lines going to Y101 from the back off the intake manifold. I had the same symptoms as you and there was a broken line in the back.

shardul

iTrader: (1)

if you dont want to get a reading from the engine bay you can connect a OBD2 scanner and get the MAP reading and subtract atmospheric pressure to get the standard boost reading.

if you want to get the reading from the engine bay you can T in a boost gauge in the rubber line going to the MAP sensor after the TB.

shardul

iTrader: (1)

dont know the part bumber but mercedes sell it for 10 dollar a foot.

driveability

shardul

iTrader: (1)

the problem is with your divertor valve system.

driveability

driveability

I did drive the car after my last post repair and don't see any difference, still caped at 15 PSI. No buddy said this would be easy . I'll keep looking around for the fix. I should test the passenger side solenoid's .

driveability

Welwynnick

You should be able to see everything from Shardul's really useful link here:

https://mbworld.org/forums/m275-v12-...75-freaks.html

Its very slow to load, and you can't save it unfortunately.

Nick

Welwynnick

Given what the engine compartment temperatures do to all the other equipment in there, we shouldn't be surprised if the vacuum tubes don't last forever. I've been looking at standard pneumatic pipes to replace all my vacuum pipes, but they're typically PVC or PU, and I don't think they're up to the temperatures either.

So I just thought that maybe we could use small bore copper tube instead?

Does anyone happen to know the ID or OD of the stock pipes?

Thanks, Nick

shardul

iTrader: (1)

i have the nylon tube at home I can measure it for you. there are a couple of different size of vaccum / boost hoses in the engine bay.
IMO if you replace them with new stock ones including the rubber fittings you will be good for another 5 years.

Welwynnick

OK, I measured some of them at 4mm OD, and microbore copper tubing in that size is cheap and readily available - and probably much more robust than nylon.

But I'm not sure whether to consider these as 4mm OD pipes fitting inside female fittings, or as 4mm ID pipes fitting outside male fittings?

The MB system is to use the former, but that seems to need proprietary fittings. If we used the latter, there are lots of 4mm ID silicone vacuum tubing products on the market, and the generic fittings are easily available.

I'm just pondering some options at the moment, that's all. I'm working on something much more interesting at the moment, which I think you'd like Shardul. How to put into practice what I've been theorizing about in my signature.

Nick

driveability

Here is a Legend


5/2 Charge air cooler for right bank
12 intake manifold
22 vacuum Tank
110a Left exhaust gas turbo
110b Right exhaust gas turbo
110/3 Vacuum cell
110/4 Deceleration air valve
126/1 Left air injection shutoff valve
(combination Valve : check valve integrated)
128 check valve (vacuum)
Y31/5 boost pressure control pressure transducer
Y32 air pump switchover valve
Y101 Divert air switchover valve
A Ambient Pressure
B Test connector for divert air control

red60R

what do you think that would cost to do?

shardul

iTrader: (1)

probably less than 80 in parts.

greekviking

Can you guys list part numbers for all these. It looks like sooner or later everyone will be replacing these brittle vacuum lines.
Has anyone here replaced them with high temp silicone lines?


Posted from Mbworld.org App for Android

benz_addict

driveablity did you find the problem? Also, did anyone find a way to save that file?

Ekselent

I want also know if you found the problem....
I have thinking at this to.....
Maybe the wastegate valve plate is dirty (burned exhaust soot).I mean the sealing surface area. Even if it close its leak a litle from there and turbo don't Spoling up fast enought. It can also be bended a litle.??? Crack at the valve plate????

shardul

iTrader: (1)

when I pulled my turbos off I inspected the wastegate flap and they closed fine. Keep in mind my car has 130xxx miles on it.
To perform an inspection of this flap with the turbos on the car is next to impossible.

Dr Matt

OK, first want to say thanks to all who have posted helpful info in this thread.

I got my CL65 in October so very little opportunity to go WOT because winter starts here in October. Well we have had a record warm January with temps about 20*+ above normal and the roads have melted to reveal the pavement thats been hidden under ice most of the time I've ovned my car, sooooo I opened it up from abot 70 today and was not exactly pinned to the seat. Tried a few pulls and I'm getting less than 6#'s of boost, mostly just over 5#'s.

Outside temps are in the low 30's, IAT temps were below 100*, stock tune in the ECU right now so only mods are K&N filters and muffler delete. Showing 20" vacuum at idle and idling smooth as glass, no missing or stumble at all.

Questions are, does the car ever limit boost due to cold temps or is it more likely I have a problem? I am assuming there is an issue because it did not feel very fast, more like a 13 second car from 70-100. No codes (other than pass seat SRS sensor) or CEL at this time. I'll check vacuum lines and hook up a smoke machine this weekend to check for vacuum leaks but if nothing leaks I'm open to suggestions on where to look next.