Right side drop after ABC flush and accumulator replace
02-25-2014, 03:44 PM
#26
MBWorld Fanatic!
However, all those processes only replace the oil in the "clean" part of the system - where the oil circulates continuously. Downstream of the valves (in the pipes from the valves to the struts, and in the struts themselves) the oil doesn't circulate, and gets very dirty. Flushing doesn't clean this, but you can drain it using the drain ports in the pipes to each strut. That takes some explaining - you gotta know what you're doing.
To drain the old oil out of the struts and feed pipes, you need to:
- Jack up the front of the car and support on stands.
- Open the drain valve and drain the oil using a clear plastic 8mm pipe into a bucket.
- Do this carefully, using one ring spanner on the bleed nipple and one ring spanner on the valve body.
- Jack up the suspension arm using a trolley jack, until it just takes the weight of the car.
- This forces almost all of the fluid out of the strut.
- Close the drain valves and drop the car back down without starting the engine.
- Its best to use the car's jack for this, as the car ends up on the floor.
- Repeat the above process for the rear end.
- Top up the ABC reservoir, start the engine, and keep the reservoir topped-up.
- Run a rodeo or cycle the suspension height several times.
1. If the "normal" flush does not replace the pipe/strut fluid how does ABC pump charge the struts after they are drained according to your procedure above?
2. How many litres of Pentosin +/- do I need to drain/fill the struts and feed pipes?
3. The dealer estimated 3-4 hours to perform the pipe/strut fluid and the rodeo. Does this sound right?
(The dealer tech said I needed 10 litres of Pentosin HOWEVER I think he was referring to the normal "flush" - even though - I thought we were talking about the pipe/strut flush. I had the normal "flush" done last year and changed the filter at that time. I will change the ABC filter this time also.)
Many thanks!
02-26-2014, 06:21 PM
#27
MBWorld Fanatic!
1. Very good question. The oil doesn't circulate round the struts - the pipe connections are single ended, so the fluid only goes in and out. That's why you compress the strut to get the oil out, then close the drain valve. Some air will probably get into the pipe, but not too much. Remember that ABC runs at 200 bar, so that air will be greatly compressed (it squeaks when you start the engine and raise the suspension). I think the idea is that those bubbles are pullled out when you do the rodeo, but its not really a very robust bleeding process.
2. Most people reckon about 10 litres.
3. To be honest, that's what I'd expect from an amateur.
Have a look at this thread for good advice; its an absolute goldmine for W220 owners:
https://mbworld.org/forums/5158952-post74.html
Nick
2. Most people reckon about 10 litres.
3. To be honest, that's what I'd expect from an amateur.
Have a look at this thread for good advice; its an absolute goldmine for W220 owners:
https://mbworld.org/forums/5158952-post74.html
Nick
02-26-2014, 06:34 PM
#28
MBWorld Fanatic!
1. Very good question. The oil doesn't circulate round the struts - the pipe connections are single ended, so the fluid only goes in and out. That's why you compress the strut to get the oil out, then close the drain valve. Some air will probably get into the pipe, but not too much. Remember that ABC runs at 200 bar, so that air will be greatly compressed (it squeaks when you start the engine and raise the suspension). I think the idea is that those bubbles are pullled out when you do the rodeo, but its not really a very robust bleeding process.
2. Most people reckon about 10 litres.
3. To be honest, that's what I'd expect from an amateur.
Have a look at this thread for good advice; its an absolute goldmine for W220 owners:
https://mbworld.org/forums/5158952-post74.html
Nick
2. Most people reckon about 10 litres.
3. To be honest, that's what I'd expect from an amateur.
Have a look at this thread for good advice; its an absolute goldmine for W220 owners:
https://mbworld.org/forums/5158952-post74.html
Nick
I own a 215 but the 220 note was informative.
New question: Can you contaminate the valve block when you do this strut drain/renew procedure? How do you avoid this? I just had my fluid/filter replaced in the "clean" part of the system a bit over a year ago and I don't want to screw up pristine valve blocks....$$$$$$.
Thanks again.
Grane
02-27-2014, 07:53 AM
#29
MBWorld Fanatic!
3. I don't know for sure how long a pro would take. I guess a couple of hours, but I'll defer to other folks.
4. Can you contaminate the valve blocks? When you flush the recirculating system - yes. When you drain the struts though, the valves are only flowing fresh oil down to the struts from the recirculating system. It only goes one way; you don't get dirty strut oil going back to the valve.
Nick
4. Can you contaminate the valve blocks? When you flush the recirculating system - yes. When you drain the struts though, the valves are only flowing fresh oil down to the struts from the recirculating system. It only goes one way; you don't get dirty strut oil going back to the valve.
Nick
Last edited by Welwynnick; 03-01-2014 at 07:48 AM.
04-20-2020, 04:07 PM
#30
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2002 MB S55 AMG
Rodeo car. See if problem persists.
Mercedes siezed to recommend abc flush about 5 years ago precisely for the same reason- debrees get loose and get stuck in various places they should not- namely valve blocks and shocks. Mercedes now recommends only filtering thr fluid.
If problem still presented after a rodeo - pay attention really which corner sags. Normally one corner sags and the whole side follows. Once you know the corner it is usually that valve block (front or back- front controls front pebel, read- rear level). Remove, clean, replace o-rings and reinstall.
Mercedes siezed to recommend abc flush about 5 years ago precisely for the same reason- debrees get loose and get stuck in various places they should not- namely valve blocks and shocks. Mercedes now recommends only filtering thr fluid.
If problem still presented after a rodeo - pay attention really which corner sags. Normally one corner sags and the whole side follows. Once you know the corner it is usually that valve block (front or back- front controls front pebel, read- rear level). Remove, clean, replace o-rings and reinstall.
My 02" S55 AMG is completely out of commission. The drivers side is sagging as low as it can go without resting on the tires. I've replaced the struts and control arm sensors through a mechanic but the he was shady af.. I wouldnt be surprised if the replacements were faulty. I took out the front left valve block, cleaned it, and replaced all the O rings, re-installed it and did a ABC flush. The fluid came out black and I went until the new fluid was coming out consistently. The car did not raise up.. the next morning i came into the shop and saw that the fluid was overflowing from the reservoir. Im not sure what to now now and would love any pointers if you have any!
