CL55 AMG, CL65 AMG, CL63 AMG (C215, C216) 2000 - 2014 (Two Generations)

Rebuilt Rear ABC Valve Block Today

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Old May 12, 2014 | 08:15 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by 2001_clk430
Hi I need my 2003 s55 rear rebuild, I live in the Bay Area Hayward Cali if anyone is near to help, can pay with a deep discount . My driver side rear has been sagging lately. My phone number is 510-862-8072, I preferred text
I know a hydraulic shop in the east bay that will rebuild the valve blocks but you have to take them out of the car and reinstall

Does anyone know anyone in the Bay Area who will take them
Out , rebuild them and reinstall ?
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 08:42 AM
  #52  
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Did anyone manage to get the actual O ring sizes?


Last edited by v8dve; Sep 21, 2014 at 08:59 AM.
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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 03:17 PM
  #53  
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I rebuild these blocks if anyone needs them done. PM me for details.


Here are the O-ring sizes. type: Nitrile (Buna-N)

inches_____actual_____ID____OD_____width
0.07______0.739______7/8____1_______1/16
0.07______0.614______5/8____3/4_____1/16
0.07______0.551______9/16___11/16___1/16
0.07______0.489______1/2____5/8_____1/16
0.07______0.426______7/16___9/16____1/16

Last edited by jnash; Jan 6, 2015 at 01:36 PM.
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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 03:25 PM
  #54  
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jnash you could probably make a few bucks by putting together kits of these o-rings. My valve blocks are working fine now....(knocking on wood)..... but given the age of my car I'd buy them in advance for that eventual day when I need them if there were kits ready to purchase.
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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 03:26 PM
  #55  
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Switta, how are those green nitrile O-rings working out for you? I tried those in the same package you display in post #3 but they are not exact size wise to those that are originally fitted.
Is your car still holding up on static height?
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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 03:30 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Dr Matt
jnash you could probably make a few bucks by putting together kits of these o-rings. My valve blocks are working fine now....(knocking on wood)..... but given the age of my car I'd buy them in advance for that eventual day when I need them if there were kits ready to purchase.
The actual o-rings are very cheap and readily available from any o-ring distributor like http://www.callapg.com/orings.aspx. Now that I have correctly listed them you can easily mail order them. It's the disassemble, cleaning, testing, reassembly that takes labor. There is no money in selling O-ring kits, thanks though.
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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 03:56 PM
  #57  
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Brilliant jnash, thank you

Last edited by v8dve; Nov 17, 2014 at 04:05 PM.
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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 09:37 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by jnash
Switta, how are those green nitrile O-rings working out for you? I tried those in the same package you display in post #3 but they are not exact size wise to those that are originally fitted.
Is your car still holding up on static height?
working good . it's been a year now and both blocks are holding up fine . yes the sizes are a bit off but it seams not enough to matter . i did not use the spacers i just put an extra o-ring on .

Last edited by Switta; Nov 17, 2014 at 09:39 PM.
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 05:17 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Switta
working good . it's been a year now and both blocks are holding up fine . yes the sizes are a bit off but it seams not enough to matter . i did not use the spacers i just put an extra o-ring on .
Good to hear its still holding up, thanks for the update. What did you mean by "not using the spacers". Are you referring to the white PTFE looking seals that are next to some of the O-rings, or am I missing something obvious?
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Old Jan 8, 2015 | 03:15 PM
  #60  
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cl500 w215 2000
order seals.

Originally Posted by jnash
I rebuild these blocks if anyone needs them done. PM me for details.


Here are the O-ring sizes. type: Nitrile (Buna-N)

inches_____actual_____ID____OD_____width
0.07______0.739______7/8____1_______1/16
0.07______0.614______5/8____3/4_____1/16
0.07______0.551______9/16___11/16___1/16
0.07______0.489______1/2____5/8_____1/16
0.07______0.426______7/16___9/16____1/16
Hallo,

i'm having some problems with my rear suspension, so I want to replace the o rings.
But i don't know exacelly how i need and what i need to order, and how much of them, because i'm going to take it apart after i have the rings here.
I'm from the netherland en would like to ask you if you can give me the exact link with the right O rings so that i can order them.
the front suspension is already done, i had replaced the whole block, that's good now.

Thanks
greets Danny
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Old Jan 8, 2015 | 04:55 PM
  #61  
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Ya if someone could post the part numbers from a distributor that ships internationally that would be awesome. I dont think mine are in too bad of shape (I work out of town and after a week or 2 it has dropped in one corner or another) but I have never got a code. Thinking I may spend a day and just rebuild them all one day this summer if I can get all the parts ready to get it done.

Thanks
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Old Jan 16, 2015 | 05:31 PM
  #62  
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2006 S500 4matic, 2004 CL55 AMG, 1986 560SEC
I can't open the pictures for some reason?
I had to replace my rear valve several years ago and for the life of me, I couldn't see how you could open these valves without destroying them?
The new valve I installed (different manufacturer) appears to be made to open up-
Thanks!
Elm
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 11:34 AM
  #63  
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Switta, I realize this is an old thread but I Can't see the pictures you posted.
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Old Feb 4, 2015 | 09:26 AM
  #64  
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this valve block appears different than the one in the youtube valve block repair video. how do you remove the solenoids on this type?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141512421148?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Last edited by biker349; Feb 4, 2015 at 09:34 AM.
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Old Feb 4, 2015 | 10:59 AM
  #65  
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Now that I look back at my original post #53 on O-ring sizes it's a bit confusing and some have kindly pointed that out to me. So to clarify here is what I use in the repair process in case you want to have a go yourself:
For those who don't want to please PM for details and I can help do this work for you.
BUNA 90 O-rings from APG
H90018 .739" ID x .070" C
H90015 .551" ID x .070" C or V90015
H90014 .489" ID x .070" C
H70013 .426" ID x .070" C
H90016 .614" ID x .070" C

This list currently does not include the large o-ring that seals to solenoid to the block as it's doesn't wear.

Some solenoids use what look like PTFE white spacers along with the O-rings while other blocks have spacers made of square cut rubber rings. If yours have these rubber spacers, which sometimes are damaged presumably on original assembly, the parts numbers for these are as follows;
APG #SH70013 , #SH70014 , #SH70015 , #SH70016
The square cut rings can be tricky to install without splitting them. You can hear them split on reassembly.
Quantities are a couple per solenoid.
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Old Feb 4, 2015 | 11:00 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by biker349
this valve block appears different than the one in the youtube valve block repair video. how do you remove the solenoids on this type?
00 06 Mercedes W215 CL500 CL55 AMG CL600 SL55 AMG SL600 Suspension Valve Block | eBay
You send them to me for rebuilding. Pm me for a price
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Old Mar 23, 2015 | 06:52 PM
  #67  
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Question 02 CL 500

I live in SoCal. Could anyone refer me to a mechanic that will do a high quality job rebuilding my valve blocks at a reasonable cost. I can't afford taking the vehicle into a dealer. Please assist me with a referral.

Thank you
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Old Mar 23, 2015 | 07:09 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Cl 500 West
I live in SoCal. Could anyone refer me to a mechanic that will do a high quality job rebuilding my valve blocks at a reasonable cost. I can't afford taking the vehicle into a dealer. Please assist me with a referral.

Thank you
Yes, send them to me. I rebuild ABC blocks regulary. I'll pm u details.
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Old May 11, 2015 | 12:30 PM
  #69  
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I have the same issue

Originally Posted by Switta
Well as some of you know i was having problems with the right side dropping , it became very bad after i flushed the system and would drop within 30 min .
so today i pulled the rear valve block and rebuilt it , to my surprise it was very easy to do and thought i would share some pictures of what i did .
i used the green o-rings that are CHF compatible .
it is very easy to remove and you will only lose about 3/4 liter of fluid .
jack the car and take the weight off the rear suspension , there are nice spots to put jack stands just behind the rear wheels .
here is the unit out of the car and ready to disassemble i removed the bracket and relief ball on the bench .


when removing the clips i placed a small screwdriver under each side while very carefully squeezing them with pliers .


once the clips are removed they are very easy to turn 45degrees , i then put a wrench under them to help with leverage and pulled them out

another handy pair of pliers to use

as you can see the o-rings are shot

block all clean

new o-rings installed

the other ones

all done and ready to go back in car


the solenoids are very easy to push back in and turn to where the need to be , everything is color coded but i did mark the blocks per color just in case i washed the paint off .
overall a very easy job and took about 2hrs to complete .
once i had it back in the car i lowered it down with the jack still holding the rear up to where it would sit normally and started the car for about 30 seconds and pushed the abc raise button on the dash and then lowered it , shut the car off and topped of the fluid about a half a liter .
started it again and cycled through the raise and lower about 10 times then topped off fluid , it now has been sitting for over 2 hrs and has not dropped at all , the o rings were very hard and were coming apart .
front valve will be next .

Dave
I'm Goin to be doing this soon and am wondering the details my email I s Jacobmindler39@gmail.com and I have a few questions also 267 446 5711 is my num to txt just lot of questions any help would be great thanx
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Old May 11, 2015 | 01:04 PM
  #70  
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Where have all the pics gone

Switta, great post on ABC valve block repair but the links to the pics no longer connect, do you still have the pics please?
Simon
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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 09:30 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by cnterline
McMaster loaded bi directional ptfe seals 9656k13 that's what I ordered they are like exact dimensions ill let you know if they work
Hello cnterline. Did you manage to replace these; if so, may I ask how & if it was successful??

I'm very keen on replacing these & found the seals but having great difficulty replacing them
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Old Jun 26, 2015 | 12:55 AM
  #72  
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Where can I get the pictures?
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Old Jul 13, 2015 | 11:07 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by KAROZZA
Hello cnterline. Did you manage to replace these; if so, may I ask how & if it was successful??

I'm very keen on replacing these & found the seals but having great difficulty replacing them
These Teflon seals are actually backup rings to prevent the o'rings from getting chewed up when the sillinoid is actuating. If not installed the o'rings will wear prematurely. TO INSTALL: you must heat up the ptfe Teflon ring evenly with torch the place over the part it should shrink back to its normal size if not reheat again while on part, then immidietly place a cold wet rag over the seal and it will bring it back to original size.
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Old Jul 13, 2015 | 02:07 PM
  #74  
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What?? there is no need to ever use heat on any portion of a ABC valve block rebuild. I rebuild them every week. You are likely to cause irrevocable damage by heating up those blocks that are manufactured using white spacers either side of the o-rings. Best to just leave them alone and not mess with them. Also, since we are on the topic, never replace the solenoid plunger blue/green? color o-ring seal. Not at least until I have located the exact source of them. They come in two parts and require special handling to install them without damaging them.

Last edited by jnash; Jul 13, 2015 at 02:11 PM.
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Old Jul 13, 2015 | 06:10 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by jnash
What?? there is no need to ever use heat on any portion of a ABC valve block rebuild. I rebuild them every week. You are likely to cause irrevocable damage by heating up those blocks that are manufactured using white spacers either side of the o-rings. Best to just leave them alone and not mess with them. Also, since we are on the topic, never replace the solenoid plunger blue/green? color o-ring seal. Not at least until I have located the exact source of them. They come in two parts and require special handling to install them without damaging them.
I'm not suggesting taking a blow torch to the valve block, I was saying the Teflon rings needed heated up before installing because stretching them will put stress cracks in them that could also cause premature failure! I have been trolling this site for awhile and notice people doubling up O'rings!! Also not a good idea! A person asked how to install them and that is how they are supposed to be installed.
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