Sure, I understand what you meant about heating the white plastic rings. Sorry, perhaps I didn't word that very well in my response. Ordinarily valve blocks with the white spacer rings, those spacer rings should not have to ever be replaced. If one does mess with them and damage them, my first choice would be to replace the white spacer rings with the square cut o-rings, again as spacers, just as the other type of ABC blocks use.

i never put the teflon spacers back in and just replaced them with with an extra o-ring , mine has been holding firm now for over a year .
only time it sags is during the winter after about two months of sitting .

Dave

2 months is great! Glad to hear it's still working. I too don't understand why it's not ok to use orings as spacers. At most it's possible to put more strain on the solenoids but compared to the spring tension I doubt it. It would be my second choice to use orings as spacers if I didn't have the square cut O-rings.

Lol no worries, it was actually reading your (ABC) write ups that convinced me it was a safe bet to acquire my S55 AMG. I'm currently in school for my aviation maintenance degree and the ABC system has a very close resemblance to alot of aircrafts hydraulic systems. My goal is to come across a worn strut and see what the possibility's of rebuilding one.

HI im Duff i was wondering if you do rebuilds i have a 2001 S55 AMG i need both rear valve blocks rebuilt

Hi Duff, yes I do, PM sent
-Jim

I hope someone saved the pictures... they were hostet at Facebook it seems and are now gone - at least for me.

Hello. I can't seem to open the pics for removing ghe rear ABC valve block. Can you share those with me?

Ken

Anyone have those pictures on the first post OR instruction on how to take off the rear valve block?

I haven't done the rear, but I rebuilt my front valve block. I assume the rear is not significantly different. It is just some wires, hoses, and mounting bolts. YOU CAN DO IT! Even without pictures. Here is a Youtube video of a front rebuild so watch that you will be confident enough to rebuild the rear block.

Hi Switta,


My kit will arrive in the next few days (From Europe to South Africa). Was indeed a bit concerned about doing the job myself but you make it sound so easy I am now confident to tackle the job on both valve blocks. Thanks a lot

Looking for a rebuilder - Mr. Nash?

I am not comfortable pulling the block without a spare. Someone recommended the newer post 2006 valves as more trouble free. I would buy one of those and send mine off for overhaul. However, the newer blocks I have seen have different hose connectors and do not appear to have a threaded connection at all.

So my question is - if I buy a newer style valve block to swap in can I make the connections to my hoses?

How does the dealership install a new valve block, do they sell a version for the older cars? Do they change all the hoses too?? That is almost impossible without pulling the engine and transmission.

I'm still rebuilding them, the pre-2006 design that is. While there appears to be different versions these days, there is for sure a compatible one for your car. The new one will be a drop in. Please message me for rebuilding the old one(s).
Best,
-Jim

New ones will fit in no problem, they just changed the design a little so you can't open them up anymore. Don't buy a new one, rebuild your current one, DIY at www.DIYBenzRepair.com or I posted it on the forum a while ago

Where are the pictures?

Thread is 4 years old, links are dead

Y

Deferred Maintenance to lower operating costs! Interesting fact and yes probably all manufacturers do it. My Nissan Maxima and my two BMWs really took me for a ride. BMW offered free maintenance and never changed the oil filter - not necessary they said. Nissan ditto. Suddenly at the end of the warranty - bang you need a major service for $1,800 and those front control arms are shot. Of course two weeks before I bring the car in to get anything repaired I can under warranty. They are such great cars they need nothing! Till the warranty expires then you get dirty looks about lack of maintenance!

If anyone found a way to force the dealers to actually do the repairs we are entitled to please let me know.

What repairs are you entitled to? I wouldn't call routine maintenance a repair. The not changing oil filter is definitely BS but I think that is a dealer level issue. I couldn't think of anybody in the industry with any credibility this that is acceptable. prepaid maintenance is a joke anyways and barely covers what should be done. Calling for oil change at 13k miles is a bit much. It's up to the dealer to advise the customer otherwise and ultimately the customers responsibility to actually take the vehicle in for those services.

Sent you a PM

Sent you a PM on valve block rebuilding.

Have you had chance to try to rebuild strut?

I know this is an old post but I hope for a response. I have a 2006 SL500 with 48000 miles. I got these 3 error codes: C1531-8 (" although locking valve is closed, the right rear suspension strut moves), C1525-64 ("system pressure too low") and C1526-16("fault in pressure supply"). These were all stored faults and the right strut was changed many years ago under warranty due to a leak so could have been from that. Very rarely when I start the car the White ABC warning light comes on but I turn the car off and then on and it disappears and doesn't come back on. The car is almost level at all corners except the passenger side (both front and rear wheels) are about 1/2" lower than right when parked. The car has never sagged when left sitting for a week or 2. Even when parked and left on max height doesn't sag. Car responds well when I raise and lower it. I used an autel scanner and performed an "acuation control and locking valve of right rear suspension strut" It raised and lowered the right rear. I then noticed there was fluid under front left of car. I thought I blew something. I took off the front left wheel and fender liner to look for a blown hose and where fluid came from. After searching and cleaning and starting the car and raising and lowering no oil leak. Thank god. It was overflow of the reservoir during the test. I then was bold enough to do an "acuation control and locking valve of left rear suspension strut" with the autel scanner. I compared the power consumption of the y36/2y4 (Right rear suspension strut blocking valve) with the y36/2y2 (Left rear suspension strut blocking valve) all values were similar. Nothing drastically different. Also the y36/2y3 (Right rear suspension strut control valve) and the y36/2y1 (left rear suspension strut control valve) values were very similar. The B4/5 ABC pressure sensor registered between 192 and 197 during the test. After all of this the car is the same as before. I cleared the codes and they have not come back. The white warning light came back once about 2 weeks since doing this and I don't have the scanner anymore to check for codes.

When I had the scanner I was going to try and do a calibration to level the passenger side that 1/2" but didn't go any further because I was afraid of damaging something. I also wanted to replace the fluid and filter but I was afraid to do a "rodeo" for fear of stressing and damaging the ABC system.

Can I do an effective fluid flush raising and lowering the suspension with the buttons in the car or should I do a rodeo or neither. Fluid was never changed and looks dirty. Again, I think a rodeo would put more stress than just using the buttons in the car.

Was the spit up of the fluid the result of a bad front or rear large accumulator, the front pulsation dampner or the rear "air cell"?
Should I change all four of those parts.

Will a good flush maybe fix the error code C1531-8 listed above.

Despite all of this the car seems to ride fine, no leaks and doesn't sag,

This car was once my brothers who died last year unexpectedly at 55. So I just want to make it perfect the way he would have wanted.

Any advice on how to get the car level? Maybe a calibration but how do I do that with the Autel scanner. I see the option to do it but not quite sure. Any step by step instructions would be great. By the way I recently had an alignment at the dealer and everything was done within tolerance except for "rear axle vehicle level ready for driving mm/°) before alignment: left 9mm/-0.5° after 9mm/-0.5° right before 5mm/-0.9° right after 5mm/-0.9° target data: -2.2mm/ +/-1.0°. Don't know if that has anything to do with the passenger side height. Any help would be great and any diagnosis of the ABC system from the warnings and codes would be great. Sorry for so much info.

Oh. an indy mechanic I spoke to about this, he didn't inspect the car, told me to beware of the battery in the trunk. If it is allowed to go low on charge is known to cause a lot of faults.

Thanks in advance.

What did you clean the valves (not the block) with? Isopropyl alcohol?

how did this work out for you ?