What is your W215/W216 making for power?




It doesn't sound like they did anything other than to adjust for the ECU bleeding boost off when you exceed max ECU boost parameters. With that said, at least it is driveable now and probably won't blow up.
Last edited by LaserSVT; Apr 6, 2017 at 11:37 PM.




Also, how is a 2WD vehicle spinning all 4 wheels on a dyno?
Also I am very very happy with how the car is performing now. Its a down right beast and I know its making much more than 624rwhp. Will verify Saturday. The turbos are the same Borg turbos used on Indy cars.
I don't have experience of dyno testing, but circumstances have dictated that I'm quite familiar with the insides of the 722.6 and what makes it tick. It's not a very efficient transmission, but it is fairly simple and robust (and relatively easy to rebuild!).
You can't really put a single percentage figure against it's efficiency though. The transmission loss has both fixed and variable/proportional losses, and these losses depend on speed and load, and what gear is being used.
Auto box losses come from the torque convertor, the oil pump, gear and bearing friction, and the clutches, which are often overlooked. When a clutch is opened, there's a small clearance to the friction surfaces - about 6-7 thou on the 722.6. This is filled with ATF, which has a moderate viscosity, and is responsible for significant drag on a supposedly "open" clutch.
The 722.6 has three gear-sets, and one clutch and one brake associated with each. Whatever gear is selected, there are always three clutches or brakes open, and three closed at any time. That's quite a lot of loss, and it's a function of speed, and not load, because the open clutches aren't transmitting any power.
More modern boxes like the ZF 8-speeder have one MORE gear-set, but one LESS clutch/brake. Moreover, it's configured so that each gear is engaged with three clutches closed and just two open. That's clever, and saves a lot of loss (as observed above). I'm jealous over every modern car with one of those ZF boxes.
So a lot of the losses in the 722.6 are load independent, and can be considered as a fixed power loss at each speed.
So if you increase the output of your engine, the transmission loss will not increase in proportion with the power. There will be some element of proportional loss, through the gear-sets for example, but even those can be controlled.
Every gear-set carries all the engine power in an epicyclic gearbox, but the frictional loss will depend on which gears are proving reduction (or overdrive). If all the clutches are closed and the brakes opened, then all the gear-sets will be locked, and the whole transmission assembly will be rotating as one fixed lump, proving a 1:1 gear ratio. This is the condition in fourth gear, which has both the lowest transmission loss, AND the least variation of loss with load.
Every dyno run should be qualified by what gear was used.
Another factor to consider is whether the lock-up clutch in the torque convertor is working. They often fail, and that can cause significant additional loss. There's not very much at high speed admittedly, but it's still a few percent.
Nick
Last edited by Welwynnick; Apr 9, 2017 at 07:51 AM.
Have a CL55 and dynoed at 483/535. Although considering the dyno I used consistently read 20whp lower across all platforms I'm guess it's a bit of a heartbreaker. This was also done on stock injectors and one tune. Going back soon for another. But I consider it roughly 500whp and 550wtq but if you're going by the sheet I'm not hurt.
Power Mods at Dyno:
77mm FSP
Kleemann Headers with Downpipes
Secondary Cat and Resonator Delete
Eurocharged TCU and ECU tuning
Killer Chiller and Trunk Tank, meth was not being sprayed on the dyno.
Current mods: 550cc Injectors and 72mm FSP, bigger TB coming soon.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I am still surprised it does not make more power though. I know whatshisface says he makes more TQ with just the better turbo internals.
I need to find a dyno to run mine on. I know Eurochargeds dyno is a loading dyno with wind simulation and all. I want to see what it does on like a standard mustang dyno.
Guess it dont really matter. I am super happy with how well the car accelerates and am blown away by how well it hooks up.
I do know EC dyno will read very low due to the testing style of dyno it is. I also know my normal guys dyno just cant read this car due to how fast the car goes in 4th so I am currently trying to find a dyno that can test the car so I can see its numbers without a simulated 100 mph headwind.
I have played with the boost controller a tad and on race tune it will spike to 20.1psi and tapper back (nearly instantly) to 17.9 and stay at 17.3-17.9 for the whole run. Any more than that and it blows the spark out and registers misfires. I am thinking of pulling the plugs and closing the gap a tad.
Regarding the dyno, is it safe to say, that the spike around 2700 rpms is where the boost control starts to bleed off boost? Also, do you have a TCU tune? It looks like the car doesn't rev over 6k rpm. Do you think re-gapping the plugs will be a problem at other rpms? I hope to see some nice track times out of it, but I realize there is only so much to expect with such a heavy car.
Also, did you make any pulls without the filters? I want to make it to the dyno again to see the difference in power with no filters, iced trunk tank and MS109. That is my race combo, and the car feels so much stronger, but never dynoed for comparison. Filters at 5% loss can contribute to another 30+whp at these power levels.
The 4WD dyno must be a complication though. I think you said you were running with all 4 wheels spinning? That being the case, you're presumably suffering from the additional losses from the rolling front wheels?
Nick
Last edited by LaserSVT; Apr 12, 2017 at 11:51 AM.





