My '05 CL65
Bought with only 29K miles, it's got over 31K now after the drive home.
Cheers!
Last edited by Geraldius; Jun 12, 2017 at 12:17 PM.
The car really shows and drives like a 30K mile car should. No curb rash on the original AMG wheels!
@RaceHorse -- there was enough dry road along the way for the opportunity to get me in plenty of trouble! But I think the weather must have kept a majority of the fuzz off the road or busy elsewhere. I was pleasantly surprised how well the nearly new looking Michelin Pilot SS tires did in the wet.
All was not perfect on the trip however, as I was treated with failure of the pneumatic locking system on the second day. This disabled several systems, including the seat lumbar support, which was sorely needed. I'm still troubleshooting that. As best I can tell so far the vacuum pump circuit board just died with no evidence of why.
My plan is to keep the car stock but maintained in top condition. I'm going to drive it and savor it as Mercedes and AMG created it.
Last edited by Geraldius; Jun 23, 2017 at 11:46 PM.
Frequently the two females would disagree, which was amusing. At other times they would agree -- sometimes very repeatedly and insistently... TURN NOW! It was like being nagged simultaneously by the ex' and the girlfriend -- through Bose 10 speaker surround sound.
Anyone try updating the nav DVD with something current?
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local dealer here wants $26K for a 38K mile CL55 and NADA says $20/$22 retail and they turned down my 20k cash offer so im still looking
yea, I am kinda hoping, but a couple others I have been looking at out of state have either sold or the dealer sent off to auction....I suppose they might turn up again at another dealer, so I will keep on looking, lucky I guess, cause it's a "want" car, not a need car, so I can be more patient in finding the right car
thanks again
douglas hunt

I have a repair kit on order for the door closer cylinder. It looks like the door window has to come out to be able to remove the locking mechanism for repair.
I was getting on the throttle from a slow speed ... it started to accelerate, then POP! and the check engine light comes on and little power. Limped home and read misfire on cylinders 7-12.
Tests indicate the left side coil pack is shorted. Regardless of whether it was bad, I had to severely damage it to remove it -- several coils were seized up on the plugs and pulled out of the coil pack while removing. It looks like it had never been off the car before. I discovered white corrosion on several of the plugs, which appear to be original.
Ive got a new set of plugs on order and a new left side coil pack in hand. But I'm afraid to try to change the plugs on the right hand side as it risks damaging the coil pack to get at them. Should I just leave that side alone? Plugs were all in great condition and burning clean on the left side; they just had the corrosion around the bases. Looks like water was sitting in the pockets for a long time. I'm thinking someone must have washed the engine down and left it wet. There's no signs of leakage anywhere on the motor.
Last edited by Geraldius; Jun 20, 2017 at 11:27 AM.
Also, the replacement coil packs are a newer part number -- and cost more. Can't get the originals any more. Wonder if there's any performance difference...
Like that it sold just a couple years ago for $39K with only 14K miles on it.
And that it may have been a bank repo a couple years after that.
Or that it got new Michelin PSS tires less than a hundred miles before you bought it because "you don't want Continentals on there".
You might discover that your car was discussed in this very forum only a few months ago.
The population of these cars is small and getting smaller. Odds are we are all trading around one another's cars.
I'm a bit afraid to get on it very hard since that is what killed it last time. I've still got to change out the right side plugs and do the B service, which is a few days overdue. Going to take it easy on the car until all that's done.
The maintenance schedule gives a mileage or time limit for certain service items. Well the spark plugs looked like they were all burning clean and are well below the mileage limit, but they are supposed to be changed at 12 years regardless. This is 12 years. About half of the plugs I removed had corrosion around the bases. I can see where you'd want to change plugs after a certain amount of time just for issues like this even if they are working fine. Wouldn't want to have them get frozen into the head from being in there too long.
I'm a bit afraid to get on it very hard since that is what killed it last time. I've still got to change out the right side plugs and do the B service, which is a few days overdue. Going to take it easy on the car until all that's done.
The maintenance schedule gives a mileage or time limit for certain service items. Well the spark plugs looked like they were all burning clean and are well below the mileage limit, but they are supposed to be changed at 12 years regardless. This is 12 years. About half of the plugs I removed had corrosion around the bases. I can see where you'd want to change plugs after a certain amount of time just for issues like this even if they are working fine. Wouldn't want to have them get frozen into the head from being in there too long.
If you didn't bleed your intercooler system it will be needed, it is very easy to have air trapped in which will allow the car to heat soak much easier. Its a bit of a process that doesn't always work out successfully at home and requires a special vaccum/suction to get out all the trapped air. For the future, when you do the other side coil/plugs only unmount the intercooler, but leave the hoses on. They can be tied or supported out of the way to work without dealing with a loss of coolant on the charged system.
Last edited by Geraldius; Jun 22, 2017 at 11:05 PM.








