CL65 radiator removal
I never had to do mine...yet, but I'd think fan removal would allow it to come out closer to the engine. If we are playing pass the potatoe, I'd ask Dr. Matt, he is more hands on than I am. For the most part, I doubt there is much difference in the process for any W215, but so far these are only my guesses.
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Before doing anything, inspect the new radiator and make sure it’s to spec; this is really important.
- Make sure the outside diameter of the hose receptacle is 41.0 to 41.5 mm.
- Make sure you have threaded receptacles for the fan cowl, IC HE, IC pump, AC HE and AC pipe fittings.
- When you remove the old radiator, some of those fittings may be rusted up – test them first, and figure out what you’re going to do.
- There are rubber & plastic mouldings all around the radiator to control airflow, and they take time to remove & refit.
- Establish whether your header tank fills to the RH header tank, or the bottom hose.
- The new radiator may have a ¾” filler hose receptacle that may need to be blocked off – which can make fitting more difficult.
- Lift the front end of the car onto stands and remove the top and bottom covers.
- Loosen the header tank cap and drain the cooling system. This takes a while.
- Remove the thermostat/top hose housing and disconnect all the hoses (expect spills).
- Disconnect the electric fan.
- Remove the small clips that hold the top of the fan cowl to the radiator flange.
- Remove the two clips that hold the bottom of the fan cowl to the radiator flange.
- Undo the two transmission oil cooler pipes (top one first!), catch a bit of oil, and cover the pipe ends.
- Undo the two nuts at the top corners of the fan cowl.
- Pull the fan assy up an inch, tilt it back and pull it out upwards (pushing the IC pipes out of the way).
- From underneath, undo the IC pump and its bracket from the radiator.
- Still underneath, remove the bolt that holds the aircon pipes bracket to the radiator.
- Unbolt the top L&R of the aircon condenser from the radiator.
- Unbolt the IC heat exchanger from the radiator, and support it.
- Undo the plastic clamps that hold the top of the radiator.
- Push the top of the radiator back and remove the bleed pipe.
- Remove the plastic brackets that are clipped half-way up each side of the radiator.
- Lift the radiator out.
Now is the time to replace the anti-freeze, the thermostat, the thermostat housing o-ring, the hose connector o-rings, and the hoses and aux drive belt if you feel like it.
Refitting is the reverse of removal, but:
- Check that the top hose assy fits both radiator receptacles before fitting the radiator (ask me why).
- Tape sheets of corrugated card to the front and rear faces of the new radiator, otherwise you’ll make a horrible mess during fitting.
- Make sure the aircon condenser is in about the right position before you push the new radiator forwards into position.
- Imperative to make sure all the small hoses and cables are tied away from the moving parts, like the fan, the ancillaries and the aux belt.
- The cooling system bleeds itself, but only when the engine is fully warmed-up, and you need patience.
Last edited by Welwynnick; Jul 2, 2017 at 04:14 AM.
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Not everyone thinks the same way, though....
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...ml#post7195874
I was already at the point of "lift out the radiator".
It's definitely a tight fit. However, now that I know that it does indeed lift out the rear, I'll get it done. I think while it's apart, I'll install new hoses. They are a little soft. Hopefully I can find time to finish it this week, kinda want to drive it.
Thanks again for the help.
You do not need to remove entire front end but need to unbolt the top core support frame. There are bolts on either side under fenders and some bracketing. Not that bad to take out and the radiator should be no problem at that point.
I suggest you get a good copy of WIS in order to aid in future projects as well! Really helps a bunch.
Best
U mite want to replace the water pump at the same time because it's probably going to die soon, and save u a lot of time fighting with it. With the Radator installed .
Not a easy job so any more room is a good thing .
Good luck








