CL55 AMG, CL65 AMG, CL63 AMG (C215, C216) 2000 - 2014 (Two Generations)

CL65 radiator removal

Old Jun 30, 2017 | 10:23 PM
  #1  
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CL65 radiator removal

I have an end tank leaking on my 05 CL65. I have everything removed from the radiator, but clearance is very tight. Will it come out the rear, or do I have to pull it out the front? I really don't want to pull the front of this car apart, but I'm starting to think that's the only way.
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Old Jul 1, 2017 | 06:57 AM
  #2  
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2006 CL55 AMG
Other CL65 will chime...RaceHorse65 or Gladiator
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Old Jul 1, 2017 | 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by principledchiro
Other CL65 will chime...RaceHorse65 or Gladiator

I never had to do mine...yet, but I'd think fan removal would allow it to come out closer to the engine. If we are playing pass the potatoe, I'd ask Dr. Matt, he is more hands on than I am. For the most part, I doubt there is much difference in the process for any W215, but so far these are only my guesses.
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Old Jul 1, 2017 | 07:09 PM
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I've removed my fan, but never the radiator so sorry I can't confirm how it comes out either.
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Old Jul 1, 2017 | 07:56 PM
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I have come to the conclusion that it will not come out the rear without moving the radiator support forward. Or maybe pulling the whole front off first. It's so close, but still so far. Those 4 extra cylinders make it very tight. The air inlets on the radiator hit the radiator support, while the radiator core hits the dipstick tube.
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Old Jul 1, 2017 | 08:18 PM
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Almost positive you have to remove the support or the front end.
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Old Jul 1, 2017 | 08:40 PM
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Double post

Last edited by SmokinCummins; Jul 1, 2017 at 08:41 PM. Reason: Double post
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Old Jul 2, 2017 | 04:05 AM
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Removing the W220 radiator is surprisingly difficult because of all the plastic shrouds, and the V12TT is more difficult again because of the IC pump and ABC cooling. Here's how I did it:

Before doing anything, inspect the new radiator and make sure it’s to spec; this is really important.
  • Make sure the outside diameter of the hose receptacle is 41.0 to 41.5 mm.
  • Make sure you have threaded receptacles for the fan cowl, IC HE, IC pump, AC HE and AC pipe fittings.
  • When you remove the old radiator, some of those fittings may be rusted up – test them first, and figure out what you’re going to do.
  • There are rubber & plastic mouldings all around the radiator to control airflow, and they take time to remove & refit.
  • Establish whether your header tank fills to the RH header tank, or the bottom hose.
  • The new radiator may have a ¾” filler hose receptacle that may need to be blocked off – which can make fitting more difficult.
Get yourself some good lights, and get to work….
  • Lift the front end of the car onto stands and remove the top and bottom covers.
  • Loosen the header tank cap and drain the cooling system. This takes a while.
  • Remove the thermostat/top hose housing and disconnect all the hoses (expect spills).
  • Disconnect the electric fan.
  • Remove the small clips that hold the top of the fan cowl to the radiator flange.
  • Remove the two clips that hold the bottom of the fan cowl to the radiator flange.
  • Undo the two transmission oil cooler pipes (top one first!), catch a bit of oil, and cover the pipe ends.
  • Undo the two nuts at the top corners of the fan cowl.
  • Pull the fan assy up an inch, tilt it back and pull it out upwards (pushing the IC pipes out of the way).
  • From underneath, undo the IC pump and its bracket from the radiator.
  • Still underneath, remove the bolt that holds the aircon pipes bracket to the radiator.
  • Unbolt the top L&R of the aircon condenser from the radiator.
  • Unbolt the IC heat exchanger from the radiator, and support it.
  • Undo the plastic clamps that hold the top of the radiator.
  • Push the top of the radiator back and remove the bleed pipe.
  • Remove the plastic brackets that are clipped half-way up each side of the radiator.
  • Lift the radiator out.
Lifting the radiator out is unsurprisingly more difficult than it sounds, as it’s a tight fit width-wise between the chassis rails. On my car there were three steering and suspension oil coolant pipes that squeeze through an aperture alongside the radiator. The aperture is sealed-up with a triangular rubber grommet, which best pulled forwards out of the way of the radiator. The pipes then need to be manipulated so they’re flat against the chassis rail, and give as much room for the radiator as possible.

Now is the time to replace the anti-freeze, the thermostat, the thermostat housing o-ring, the hose connector o-rings, and the hoses and aux drive belt if you feel like it.

Refitting is the reverse of removal, but:
  • Check that the top hose assy fits both radiator receptacles before fitting the radiator (ask me why).
  • Tape sheets of corrugated card to the front and rear faces of the new radiator, otherwise you’ll make a horrible mess during fitting.
  • Make sure the aircon condenser is in about the right position before you push the new radiator forwards into position.
  • Imperative to make sure all the small hoses and cables are tied away from the moving parts, like the fan, the ancillaries and the aux belt.
  • The cooling system bleeds itself, but only when the engine is fully warmed-up, and you need patience.
If you’re prepared, it should take about a day.

Last edited by Welwynnick; Jul 2, 2017 at 04:14 AM.
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Old Jul 2, 2017 | 09:04 AM
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Nice write up Nick, you are a go to guy, are you sure you didn't leave anything out? lol. It won't be long before Wikipedia starts to reference you.
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Old Jul 2, 2017 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by RaceHorse
Nice write up Nick, you are a go to guy, are you sure you didn't leave anything out? lol. It won't be long before Wikipedia starts to reference you.
nick, thanks again for great info.
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Old Jul 2, 2017 | 01:30 PM
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Thanks guys, appreciate that.

Not everyone thinks the same way, though....

https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...ml#post7195874
.. all my buddies who one works for MB and owns these cars too and one owns the biggest MB specialist shop in town and the others work there all thought adding washers was a joke.. they referred to it as more Mickey Mouse repairs from the internet lol and usually they are more on the liberal side of playing it safe than sorry so I decided to go this route.. every one of them said the same thing.. it's my life riding on those struts and putting spacers in there could just make the already weak upper mount give more. No idea if that's a possibility, the washers may have been great..
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Old Jul 2, 2017 | 08:17 PM
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Thanks, Nick.
I was already at the point of "lift out the radiator".
It's definitely a tight fit. However, now that I know that it does indeed lift out the rear, I'll get it done. I think while it's apart, I'll install new hoses. They are a little soft. Hopefully I can find time to finish it this week, kinda want to drive it.
Thanks again for the help.
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Old Jul 3, 2017 | 09:04 PM
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W215 CL65
Originally Posted by SmokinCummins
I have an end tank leaking on my 05 CL65. I have everything removed from the radiator, but clearance is very tight. Will it come out the rear, or do I have to pull it out the front? I really don't want to pull the front of this car apart, but I'm starting to think that's the only way.

You do not need to remove entire front end but need to unbolt the top core support frame. There are bolts on either side under fenders and some bracketing. Not that bad to take out and the radiator should be no problem at that point.

I suggest you get a good copy of WIS in order to aid in future projects as well! Really helps a bunch.

Best
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Old Jul 3, 2017 | 09:17 PM
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Thanks. I didn't figure on needing a manual to help do a radiator swap. Lol
That said, I know I need a WIS for future repairs. Do you have a recommendation for a good place to get one?
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Old Jul 4, 2017 | 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by SmokinCummins
That said, I know I need a WIS for future repairs. Do you have a recommendation for a good place to get one?
Ebay. It's a no-brainer.

Nick
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Old Jul 21, 2017 | 09:35 AM
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Hi
U mite want to replace the water pump at the same time because it's probably going to die soon, and save u a lot of time fighting with it. With the Radator installed .
Not a easy job so any more room is a good thing .
Good luck
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Old Jul 9, 2019 | 08:55 AM
  #17  
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2005 - CL65 ...Fan not working after radiator replacement

My 2005 CL65 AMG had the check engine light on when the radiator went.... Replaced the radiator and the check engine light was still on. The fan was staying on constantly. I brought the car to a guy with a scanner to reset the check engine light and now my fan doesn't come on at all....To make matters worst, I don't have a fuse diagram so I checked a few fuses under the hood by pulling them out and to see if any were blown and now my ABC (Active Body Control) that raises and lowers the car and the button that puts you into sport or convenience mode doesn't work!!! Is it possible that the guy with the scanner erased my fan data? And as far as me visually checking the fuses , I am wondering if I need to reset something with the ABC? Any help would be appreciated.... (I couldn't find were to post this so I jumped in here to post this...lol...I just signed up a few minutes ago so if this is wrong, please let me know.
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Old Jul 9, 2019 | 10:23 AM
  #18  
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I don't know much at all but from what I have learned from these guys you will need an MB dealership or the MB specific scanner to really reset these cars.
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Old Jul 10, 2019 | 07:31 AM
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no
you just need to buy a SDconnect C4 and software
then bye bye MB dealer
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