CL65 Issues after Tune
As for the misfire issue, it could the coilpack but could also be the power supply for the coils in the center of the engine (the ignition transformer). When these go bad, they can cause power to one side to be affected. Be careful-do not drive like this too much as you will damage the catalytic converters due to the amount of unburned fuel entering the cats (that is why the code says "damages TWC").
Here is a useful post that is similar to yours-ended up being the ignition transformer/power supply:
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...e-problem.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...-function.html
Best,
Love the 215 65s and still have mine. And since you asked, the mirror tint is horrendous for my taste. Reminds me of late 90s when everyone was rocking it, glad those days are gone.
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@ ItalainJoe1, I believe they are the originals, my left side p/n is A 275 150 05 80 Q1 and right is A 275 150 04 80 Q1. The only reason that I am having a little bit of a freak out is the fact the the MB dealer here in town wants $3000 per side for the coil packs!!!! That's not installed BTW
If anyone can help me out with the best place to purchase the most recent part numbers at the best price, I would be forever greatful. I am not sure if driver side p/n A 275 150 07 80 Q3 and passenger A 275 150 06 80 Q4 are the latest update. Thanks again everyone!
For the coilpacks, to my knowledge the Q code is not the date code on the coilpack. The code on the bottom right is the date code. Example would be 06W45 which would mean 2006 in 45th week.
If you are on the original coilpack, then the date code will be 2004, 2005, etc. Your dealer quote is ridiculous.
parts.mbfm.com has then for $1,050 per side and that is original mercedes from dealer which would be newest part. 2751500680 2751500780
The Q1 is a revision thing. If the part is updated but not so much as to change the part #, they change that Q #. The transformer is up to Q3 or Q4 now.
http://www.v12icpack.com/
As far as testing the voltage transformer, maybe I am understanding the procedure wrong, as posted in a link in MooksM275's post, it states to turn the ignition off for 3 mins disconnect the connector and there should be 23V @ pin 7 and 8, and then 180V @pin 9 and 16...this does not prove to be true in my case. Here is what I did, I turned the ignition to the on position, but did not start the car, held it there for a minute or so, then turned the ignition off, waited 3 mins, and checked for voltage @ the pins (I did this at the transformer itself (male pins) and also at the wires(female pins) and was only seeing like 9-12v=V @ pins 9 and 16, so I know something is not right. I do not want to do it with the key in the ignition on position, as it clearly states to have ignition off, even though it makes more sense to have it in the on position to check. Maybe someone can hold my hand for this test (FYI I am fully capable and know how to use my multimeter)
I would start by testing the normal pins line battery voltage and ground and then go to the bigger ones.
Here is another test procedure doc that says that engine must be running over 1000 rpm and with load?
Another link about the problem: https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...e-problem.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...lattering.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...d-5k-loss.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/cl55-amg-...-tcu-tune.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/505228-shardul.html
OP - Please read the above threads -
You do not want to purchase used coils -
I have both the ECU and TCU tunes from Eurocharged
and am extremely happy with the tunes / customer service -
Thank-You
D.B.
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