CL65 stock 1/4 mile
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CL65 stock 1/4 mile
What is the best time for a stock CL65 at the track running drag radials?
I am having issues launching and looking for advice from the experts. If I leave soft, I run 1.77 60 foot, but if I leave hard, it spins bad and runs a tenth slower. My best ET was 11.66 running a Mickey Thompson ET Street R 275/40R17. DA was 1100ft. I am heating the tires a lot, but after getting some feedback after racing, it seems traction control is fighting me. I am going to try dyno mode next time to see if I can get more heat in the tires.
I guess my main question is, what is the best number I can expect for a showroom stock CL65 with a sticky tire?
I am having issues launching and looking for advice from the experts. If I leave soft, I run 1.77 60 foot, but if I leave hard, it spins bad and runs a tenth slower. My best ET was 11.66 running a Mickey Thompson ET Street R 275/40R17. DA was 1100ft. I am heating the tires a lot, but after getting some feedback after racing, it seems traction control is fighting me. I am going to try dyno mode next time to see if I can get more heat in the tires.
I guess my main question is, what is the best number I can expect for a showroom stock CL65 with a sticky tire?
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CL65
You gotta use dyno mode to do a proper burnout, otherwise you may be on and off with spinning the tires, with brake intervention. Probably the reason you are spinning when launching. Another factor could be tire pressure. Try 22 lbs to start, it will go up from the burn out. You should be able to bring the rpms up to 1500 to launch and hook with no issues. Good luck.
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CL65
If you're comfortable running them that low and it works then that's fine. Sometimes too low is no good either. Mark your tire and rim make sure you're not spinning the tire on the rim. I usually do a burnout until the smoke comes up to the back of the doors and then take my foot off the brake and let the car ride forward. But I also have a line lock which makes it a little easier. I'd say start around 22 you can always let more are out.
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From: Anchorage
05 CL65
Like Racehorse, I have gotten my best 60' times by using Dyno Mode, I have a line lock to do big burnouts, and have gotten my best traction at 22-24 PSI on M/T drag radials. How much I stall it up depends on traction available. If the track is good I'll stall it up as far as I can without pushing through the brakes. When prep is minimal or no prep I may only stall up to 1,200 and roll into it.
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I might have to get a line lock.lol
Tonight results, Dyno Mode was worse as it would only spin the right tire in the burnout box. Then the left tire would not hook. I'm kinda frustrated with it right now, but even at that, I had a good time.
I did get to race a ZL1 Camaro - which is one car I have wanted to race. I beat him the first time. He came up and asked for a rematch. Second time it was dead even across the finish and I had to look at the time slip to see what happened. I ran a faster ET, but he won with a better reaction time.
Good times!
Tonight results, Dyno Mode was worse as it would only spin the right tire in the burnout box. Then the left tire would not hook. I'm kinda frustrated with it right now, but even at that, I had a good time.
I did get to race a ZL1 Camaro - which is one car I have wanted to race. I beat him the first time. He came up and asked for a rematch. Second time it was dead even across the finish and I had to look at the time slip to see what happened. I ran a faster ET, but he won with a better reaction time.
Good times!
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CL65
Sounds like you had fun but a much better investment would be a quaife LSD. This will give a better distribution of power to both tires and will help hooking on the street as well. The line lock only allows them to spin freely without wearing your rear brakes during a burnout. Make sure there is plenty of water to start the burnout, it makes it easier to get both tires to spin. Otherwise it seems more hit and miss with a stock open differential, often resulting in only one wheel burnout and opposite wheel spinning off the line. I hope that makes sense.
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That's the struggle exactly. Lol
One wheel peel.
If I recall, Dr. Matt had issues with his Quaffie. That has me less than excited about blowing that amount of money on one. I have been considering building a third member to replace the stock chunk.
My son keeps recommending jb weld locker and assures me he can work miracles. He's no help. Lol
One wheel peel.
If I recall, Dr. Matt had issues with his Quaffie. That has me less than excited about blowing that amount of money on one. I have been considering building a third member to replace the stock chunk.
My son keeps recommending jb weld locker and assures me he can work miracles. He's no help. Lol
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From: Anchorage
05 CL65
Yep, my Quaife failed. Their "lifetime warranty" is a joke. They not only refused to consider it, but they didn't even want to see it, and didn't care to even see pictures before denying the warranty. As far as they were concerned, if they didn't install it, it was the installers fault. I'll never buy another product of theirs and I'll certainly recommend others don't do business with them either. I think with a line lock and getting the tires good and wet, along with a quick blip of the throttle to snap them both loose you will be fine at the track most of the time. Heck, even with a Quaife I still got one wheel peel at times. The Quaife howls really loud when it doesn't grab though so I would just lift and stat the burnout over to get them both spinning. Also, you can point your mirrors at the rear tires when doing your burnout to watch and see if both are spinning.
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2003 CL55
I agree, 22-25 PSI seems to be optimum for drag radials.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd
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CL65
I hope I don't speak too soon, but I never had a problem with the Quaife. Maybe its from a lot less track days than Dr. Matt or just dumb luck. It's unfortunate that they didn't take a look at his and provide a partial credit at the very least. It could have had an imperfection that slipped by during production. I don't know of others out there for additional opinions.
I have got the howling sound with the open diff a few times but when it's only spinning 1 tire. Extra water was helpful. On a burnout with less water, I ended up snapping my pinion gear once. Now line lock and extra water makes me feel a little safer, but there is always a risk with sticky tires.
I have got the howling sound with the open diff a few times but when it's only spinning 1 tire. Extra water was helpful. On a burnout with less water, I ended up snapping my pinion gear once. Now line lock and extra water makes me feel a little safer, but there is always a risk with sticky tires.
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Thanks for clarifying that, Dr.Matt. I will deal with the open diff for now. I'm not going with a company that refuses to even consider a warranty.
I'm probably going to take a break from the track for a bit. My son wants to play too, so we will be taking his truck next time. He needs to learn the tree with something slower than the CL65. lol
I'm probably going to take a break from the track for a bit. My son wants to play too, so we will be taking his truck next time. He needs to learn the tree with something slower than the CL65. lol
