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I previously owned a 2005 G55 AMG that I thoroughly enjoyed but decided to get out of it (foolishly) but always intended to return.
Im a M113k fanatic but thought I’d buy a W215 CL65 as ive always admired the body style and the drivetrain.
Fast forward and this 2004 CL55 fell into my lap.
I work on most of my own cars and as a result end up with plenty of used fluids. A local shop burns old motor oil, etc and ive been taking mine to him for years.
Ive often seen this car in the service bay and have talked with the shop owner about it.
“The guy loves this car” and “he maintains it with an open check book” always came up. New transmission was installed about 40k miles ago @ ~$8k cost out of pocket! Apparently theres a slightly smaller blower pulley on it also.
The condition of the car shows it! And after finally speaking with the owner today, I can tell he was fanatical about owning it.
Three previous owners before me. The current guy had it for over 11 years.
At 136k miles currently, the current owner had enough when it would no longer pass emissions and since he recently bought two P-cars, he decided it was time to let go.
”The owner wants very little for it”…. Sold!
Initial inspection revealed a dead battery. After a jump start, the motor sounds strong. No grease or oil from the portions of the valve covers I could see. Suspension goes up and down, etc.
Things it needs:
1. catalytic converters
2. trunk wont open by door button or key fob (opens with key and auto close works with authority)
3. rear sunshade wont retract. Came up just fine
4. rear headrests wont retract. Were up when I got to the car.
5. Slight shimmy in front end.
Getting records, keys and title tomorrow and taking it for a Post Purchase Inspection at my local specialist along with a State Inspection so I can register the car.
Will schedule a service with Modern Masters Auto in WV so we can potentially get some higher performance cat options along with some tuning tune.
Will keep this post updated as I get this thing on the road and start wrenching!
Replace the ABC fluid and accumulators if you have no idea if they've been replaced. The fluid should look green, if it's dark its overdue IMO. The suspension is horrifically expensive if neglected too long, but very reliable otherwise. Headrests could be the PSE pump- especially if the doors don't unlock with authority.
Engine mounts probably need replacing, stand on the brakes and rev it with the hood open while its in drive- if the engine lurches 4+ inches they need replacing.
I need to go through the stack of receipts the previous owner gave me to get a sense of when the suspension, fluids, etc were last serviced and will start tackling those items.
I picked up the car from the specialist today and the "to-do" list is as follows.
Passenger Front Control Arms (some movement)
Trunk Vacuum Actuator
Supercharger Pulley Bearing making noise
Serpentine Belt Fraying
Door Wiring needs attention
Battery should be replaced due to age
Rear Tires wearing on inside edge, should be replaced
Windshield Wipers cracking
Valve Cover Breathers leaking
Rear Diff weaping oil but not too serious
Trunk Struts need replacing
Met up with the previous owner last night to pick up the spare key and got to know him a little better.
The guy is a real car enthusiast and his love of cars and motorsports is clear. He also mentioned he had a surprise for me....
He gave me two boxes with of goodies.
Upgraded Throttle Body and Snout (need to see what size it is)
Looped fuel rail setup with higher output injectors (need to see what size they are)
A fresh door seal
A mini W215 model
Im speechless. Absolutely blown away! Now I really cant wait to get the car up on my lift and start poking around to come up with a plan of attach.
Talked with Mike at MBH yesterday and expressed my interest in his Long Tube Header/Cat setup. He mentioned he makes a Mid Section also (not on his website) that would make the setup a bolt on affair to the factory resonator pipes. Now were talkin! I was planning on taking the car to Modern Masters Auto in WV to have them install the exhaust but now, I can likely tackle it at home.
Waiting on a package from FCP Euro that contains a Tranny Service kit along with an Oil Change kit. Will get the car up on the lift and start wrenching by this weekend. Hoping to get the car State Inspected by Friday.
Finally got an estimate for the work suggested by the specialist:
1) Trunk lock and rear trunk strut
2) Supercharger repair and belt replacement
3) Wipers
4) Front brakes needed in next 10k
5) Right front lower control arm (align)
6) Rear tires at minimum (align)
7) Rear differential reseal
8) Left door harness is faulty
I’ll leave the prices out. They are cheaper than the dealer for sure and have alot more attention to detail but Im a handy guy with access to the internet… I can do it for less! 🤣🫣
Make sure the crank pulley has been replaced, the rubber material securing the grooved outer pulley to the inner pulley degrades, and allows it to violently disintegrate into everything around it. I learned this the hard way at about 95k miles.
The tires will always wear on the inner edges, that's just a result of the camber and weight.... Rears last ~10k, fronts much longer.
Forgot to ask... you are long-pressing the headrest button to make them retract, correct? Pressing the button normally is to put them up.
Make sure the crank pulley has been replaced, the rubber material securing the grooved outer pulley to the inner pulley degrades, and allows it to violently disintegrate into everything around it. I learned this the hard way at about 95k miles.
The tires will always wear on the inner edges, that's just a result of the camber and weight.... Rears last ~10k, fronts much longer.
Forgot to ask... you are long-pressing the headrest button to make them retract, correct? Pressing the button normally is to put them up.
Great tip for the Crank Pulley. Will investigate and get one ordered if needed. Best place to source one?
I'll have to play with the dash switch for the rear headrests. Not sure if I was long pressing it or not. Once I realized the headrests can be lowered with the switch on the back of the center console, I didnt really investigate further.
10K miles for rear tires? Geez lol I doubt lowering rods will help them with longevity LOL
Awesome pickup! I've been thinking on upgrading my daily and a CL55k would be an awesome upgrade, but I think I'd miss rowing my own gears too much.
Your G is in good hand still with 135k miles on it now.
I come by the restaurant every time I pass through town (at least 2 times a year) but you're always busy. I'll say hi next time!
Hope all is well.
hey man!! I pop into your thread from time to time and am amazed at the work youre putting into the G55k! Glad its in good hands and youre putting miles on her. Always say hello when you swing through, almost never too busy!
My buddies at Olympic Auto made quick work of some parts I sent over to them.
Fresh Conti DWS tires all around, road force balanced and aligned
FCP Euro Zimmerman Rotors with Pagid Pads
FCP Euro Inner and Outer Tie Rod Kit
FCP Euro Passenger Lower Control Arm
URO Trunk Vacuum Solenoid
Coolant Flush
Brake Flush
Car is riding smooth and stopping great! Mileage is now 137,055
Im hoping to get the oil changed and tranny serviced this week but its going to be a short week as I have a training class on Friday and work evenings this week.
Time to upgrade the Supercharger pulley and add the belt wrap kit I got from VRP.
Removed the 83mm pulley that came on the car. Emailed V-Tech with info about the car and waiting on the tune.
Turns out, my tensioner pulley is a bit wiggly. Ordered a 3pc pulley kit from VRP and while I was at it ordered a Stage 1 TCU tune from MK Ultra with Full M Mode.
Took the airbox off to inspect filters but ran out of time. It does look like there will be plenty of space to access headers this summer when the valve covers come off for resealing and powder coating.
check engine light seems to be triggered by the cat again. V-Tech turned off the rear O2 sensors but that didnt solve the issue it seems. Oh well. No biggie for now. Will order the MBH long tubes by the end of June depending on lead times.
What has me concerned is this:
its a stored code for the ABC system. Suspension fluid level is fine, goes up and down, no leaks, etc.
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