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Whenever I get a new car, I apply an index stripe to the top dead (12:00) position. This strip is essential for the track and applies a bit of a aesthetic flair as well.
If you are planning to do this, I have some tips from experience that might help. It's not rocket surgery!
Last edited by ghgoldberg; May 5, 2025 at 01:36 PM.
Whenever I get a new car, I apply an index stripe to the top dead (12:00) position. This strip is essential for the track and applies a bit of a aesthetic flair as well.
If you are planning to do this, I have some tips from experience that might help. It's not rocket surgery!
Lookin good, how come there isn't one from factory?
I agree the marker looks really nice and I almost got the carbon fiber steering wheel because of it, but I thought it didn't match the overall spec of my car.
I agree the marker looks really nice and I almost got the carbon fiber steering wheel because of it, but I thought it didn't match the overall spec of my car.
Oh hmmm, the previous generation wheel you can get it without CF, get it with alcantara.
Whenever I get a new car, I apply an index stripe to the top dead (12:00) position. This strip is essential for the track and applies a bit of a aesthetic flair as well.
If you are planning to do this, I have some tips from experience that might help. It's not rocket surgery!
I have the same wheel ,what did you use for the strip and how did you apply it , thanks in advance
I have the same wheel ,what did you use for the strip and how did you apply it , thanks in advance
1. Park with the car heading zero degrees and the steering wheel centered.
2. Clean the top of the wheel with a quick wipe of isopropyl alcohol.
3. Tape a thread from the bottom of the wheel, thru the center of the wheel, and around the top of the wheel. Verify that it is centered. (Easy to do with Mercedes!)
4. Dab a teeny tiny (pardon the technical jargon) of superglue on the threads about +/- 1/2" (12 mm) each side of the line.
5. Cut a foot or two of Mitchell's abrasive cord. (You can substitute a fine triangular jewelers file, or if you pm me your address, I send ya a few feet of Mitchell's.)
6. File a groove in the leather +/- 1/8" (say 3-4 mm) from the line all around. Don't worry about the bottom where the threads are. My grooves taper off there, anyhow the superglue will prevnt the threads from unraveling in any event. Lightly scuff between the grooves with 400 sandpaper.
7. Mask outboard of each groove.
8. With an artist's brush, apply a couple of coats of red rustoleum. I have used rustoleum in the past to good effect. (I didn't here, and wish that I had. Rustoleum is slow drying so it dries nice and smooth. I thought that I would apply the "right" material this time, so I got some leather paint, but it is fast drying so requires several coats with sanding in between to get it smooth.)
9. Optionally, you can apply a thin coat of clear or black in the grooves.
1. Park with the car heading zero degrees and the steering wheel centered.
2. Clean the top of the wheel with a quick wipe of isopropyl alcohol.
3. Tape a thread from the bottom of the wheel, thru the center of the wheel, and around the top of the wheel. Verify that it is centered. (Easy to do with Mercedes!)
4. Dab a teeny tiny (pardon the technical jargon) of superglue on the threads about +/- 1/2" (12 mm) each side of the line.
5. Cut a foot or two of Mitchell's abrasive cord. (You can substitute a fine triangular jewelers file, or if you pm me your address, I send ya a few feet of Mitchell's.)
6. File a groove in the leather +/- 1/8" (say 3-4 mm) from the line all around. Don't worry about the bottom where the threads are. My grooves taper off there, anyhow the superglue will prevnt the threads from unraveling in any event. Lightly scuff between the grooves with 400 sandpaper.
7. Mask outboard of each groove.
8. With an artist's brush, apply a couple of coats of red rustoleum. I have used rustoleum in the past to good effect. (I didn't here, and wish that I had. Rustoleum is slow drying so it dries nice and smooth. I thought that I would apply the "right" material this time, so I got some leather paint, but it is fast drying so requires several coats with sanding in between to get it smooth.)
9. Optionally, you can apply a thin coat of clear or black in the grooves.
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