CLK-Class (W208) 1998-2002: CLK 200, CLK 230K, CLK 320, CLK 430 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

Disaster stuck while changing plugs on 320

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Old 12-20-2006, 05:48 PM
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2000 CLK 320
Disaster stuck while changing plugs on 320

well i was half way done changing all the plugs on passenger side. then when i got to the first plug on drivers side, the dam spark plug BROKE, rite above the thread. so the thread is still in engine, and most of the plug came out. does anyone know how to take it out? is it gona be expensive? dam i am pissed!
Old 12-20-2006, 06:53 PM
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2001 CLK430 Cab; 2008 GL550
Sorry to hear but I think you might have to two it to the shop and have them machine it out or drill and re-tap it.
Old 12-20-2006, 07:08 PM
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i had the same problem. ok what i'm about to tell you you have to be very carefull while doing this. grab a filer and a rubber hammer you have to put a little cut or a openning on the surface. this will take a long time but PLEASE BE PAITENT DO NOT HIT HARD OR RUSH THE JOB very slowly and softly because you can do some seriouse damage to the treating of the spark plug bay. keep filing and hitting until you can fit a flat head in the opening that you made and it has to be a pretty good size flat head and then unscrew it and pull it out. good luck man BE CAREFULL AND TAKE YOURE TIME NOOOOOO HARRRRDDD HIIIITTTTING
Old 12-20-2006, 08:48 PM
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Custom CLK / 05 E500 4matic / 04 Acura TL <<Daily
Originally Posted by VIPclk320
i had the same problem. ok what i'm about to tell you you have to be very carefull while doing this. grab a filer and a rubber hammer you have to put a little cut or a openning on the surface. this will take a long time but PLEASE BE PAITENT DO NOT HIT HARD OR RUSH THE JOB very slowly and softly because you can do some seriouse damage to the treating of the spark plug bay. keep filing and hitting until you can fit a flat head in the opening that you made and it has to be a pretty good size flat head and then unscrew it and pull it out. good luck man BE CAREFULL AND TAKE YOURE TIME NOOOOOO HARRRRDDD HIIIITTTTING

This does sounds like huge mission, good luck.
Old 12-20-2006, 09:10 PM
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2001 CLK320 Cabrio
Here are some ideas.

http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforu...ken+spark+plug
Old 12-20-2006, 09:22 PM
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00 KLEEMANN CLK 430 - 02 KLEEMANN CLK55 - 88 Euro / Jap AMG 560 SEC Widebody
I feel sick now..... Good luck krayzie, good luck.
Old 12-22-2006, 02:17 AM
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okay, heres is what i tried today. i used an extractor. we logded it in there, but no luck. we attached a 2ft pipe to the rachet to get more torque, and the dam extention broke. plan c tomorow, ima buy an air rachet and hook it up to air compressor. if that dont work, im fukd. and defenately have to pay some1 alota money to get engine taken apart. dam,wish me luck.
Old 12-22-2006, 10:52 PM
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Are these the original plugs that you're changing? Meaning the ones that were on the car when it left Germany? Lastly, are you saying the plug broke in half where the arrow points to the red line?
Attached Thumbnails Disaster stuck while changing plugs on 320-rentwreck.jpg  
Old 12-23-2006, 12:01 AM
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2000 CLK 320
yeah the plugs are bosch. the tip is a copper color though. and it broke a littel bit above where u marked it. it broke just underneath the hexagon shape.
Old 12-23-2006, 02:10 AM
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03 R230 SL55 / 94 W124 E500
Did you use an "easy out"?
It is a bolt extractor .. you need to drill in to the center of the plug ,and insert the easy out inside the hole that you drilled ,then use a good grip to twist the easy out of the bay. Try to get the proper size for the easy out , I hope this will work . Good luck dude
Attached Thumbnails Disaster stuck while changing plugs on 320-easy-out.gif  

Last edited by superstar; 12-23-2006 at 02:16 AM.
Old 12-23-2006, 05:28 PM
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ok here is a pick of the broken plug. the thread is still in there. yes, we used an easy out already. we got a good grip, but it only ended up breaking one of the extensions. we we reapplied the easy out, then used an impact wrench. and still nothin. a mechanic we know advised us to stop messing with it cause we may damage to cylinder head,wich is aluminum, and end up spending more money. so what i feared has occured. the cylinder head has to come out. this mechanic is gona do it then take head to machine shop to get the piece of the plug out. he is charging me $500 for labor. plus gaskets, oil will need to be changed, also coolant. dam, this is a horrible xmas for me. i know it gona be near 900 dollars when he is done. does his price seem too much???
Old 12-24-2006, 12:34 AM
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I've never seen a plug break like that. One more question, is that the original equipment plug? The one that was installed in Germany?

$500 to R&R a head isn't too much.
Old 12-24-2006, 04:37 PM
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ya, im pretty sure its the original plug. because i purchased my car with 40k miles, and i doubt any1 changed them.currently my car has 100K miles. tuesday after xmas my car gettin towed to the mechanics home so he can work on it there.
Old 12-25-2006, 01:25 AM
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I think I'm going to have to change my plugs before hitting 100k so it won't seize up like that. Has anyone experienced this?
Old 12-25-2006, 02:47 AM
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The plugs are 100K miles or five years, whichever comes first. This may be related to the five year limit having been exceeded.
Old 12-27-2006, 12:51 PM
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status?
Old 12-27-2006, 01:34 PM
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2001 CLK430 Cab; 2008 GL550
Hey Marcus, I have 65k on my 2001, do you think it has seized on to the engine at this point, do you think I should take on this project myself or should I bring it to a certified mechanic?
Old 12-27-2006, 01:48 PM
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things with and without wheels
Guys make sure you change plugs when the engine is cold.
Did you try spraying any stuff like wd-40? if you did then your mechanic / friend gave you good advice about taking it appart, good luck!
Old 12-27-2006, 02:07 PM
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looks like this thread is starting to sacre people out .
Old 12-27-2006, 02:58 PM
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CLK 430 Cabrio
The type of extractor photographed is no good for such a job. Their tapered nature will just make what you are trying to remove even tighter in the hole as you wind it in. Dont know if you have Proto over there, but they make a square extractor with a very slight taper that you knock in to the hole as opposed to screwing it in and then get a crescent wrench on it. I have removed many broken fittings with this type where the spiral type wouldnt budge them.
Good luck fella. Hope you get it sorted.
Old 12-27-2006, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Silverbillet
Hey Marcus, I have 65k on my 2001, do you think it has seized on to the engine at this point, do you think I should take on this project myself or should I bring it to a certified mechanic?
I don't know about you, but I'm doing my plugs myself. I've never seen a plug broken like this. Of course, there's a lot I've never seen. If the engine is cold, then the plug should come right out. If it doesn't come right out, then spraying WD-40/PB Blaster comes next and the plug should be worked out (back and forth). If the engine isn't cold, then the steel threads on the plug retains heat and remains expanded longer than the aluminum head. That will make for a tight fit and (occasionally) stripped threads.

I asked Krayzie_99 if they were the original plugs because sometimes people cross thread plugs -then the guy who goes to change them later has a problem.

Krayzie_99, give us some details. Did the plug loosen a little first, tighten up, and then snap? Was the engine dead cold? How hard did you have to lay on the socket before the plug snapped?

Thanks
Old 12-27-2006, 05:06 PM
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Just did the plugs myself a few weeks back. If something like that happened to me, I would go nuts, seeing this is my daily driver.

In addition to Marcus's questions, I will ask, was the socket firmly seated into the a spark plug before you tried to break torque? It's important that the socket was in all the way.
Old 12-27-2006, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by subseajones
The type of extractor photographed is no good for such a job. Their tapered nature will just make what you are trying to remove even tighter in the hole as you wind it in. Dont know if you have Proto over there, but they make a square extractor with a very slight taper that you knock in to the hole as opposed to screwing it in and then get a crescent wrench on it. I have removed many broken fittings with this type where the spiral type wouldnt budge them.
Good luck fella. Hope you get it sorted.
Do you have any photos for that type or a web link ? Because i have never seen a square extractor ?
Old 12-27-2006, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by MarcusF
I don't know about you, but I'm doing my plugs myself. I've never seen a plug broken like this. Of course, there's a lot I've never seen. If the engine is cold, then the plug should come right out. If it doesn't come right out, then spraying WD-40/PB Blaster comes next and the plug should be worked out (back and forth). If the engine isn't cold, then the steel threads on the plug retains heat and remains expanded longer than the aluminum head. That will make for a tight fit and (occasionally) stripped threads.

I asked Krayzie_99 if they were the original plugs because sometimes people cross thread plugs -then the guy who goes to change them later has a problem.

Krayzie_99, give us some details. Did the plug loosen a little first, tighten up, and then snap? Was the engine dead cold? How hard did you have to lay on the socket before the plug snapped?

Thanks
yes engine was cold. no, i never got the chance to loosen it, when i tried,thats when it broke. yes,i def. and i only put wd 40 after when we were tryin to take out the broken plug,but it didnt work. this is my daily driver, so it really sux. my car was towed yestaday. i think today the mechanic was takin the head out, then takin it to machine shop. so i'll keep u updated. looks like this is gona cost me close to 1k dollars to fix.
Old 12-27-2006, 08:36 PM
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CLK 430 Cabrio
Superstar,
I am new to this whole forum thing and don't know yet how to attach pics or drawings or links. I will be on the proto website and write back the old fashioned way. Back in ten minutes.


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