Instructional on repairing/ replacing brake light switch on 2000 430CLK Cabriolet
I hope this helps out a brother CLK (W208) owner in the future.
Here's a link to the dash error lights:
http://www.panchogun.com/FVWebPhotos...odes-5x100.jpg
Here's a link to the diagnosis:
http://www.panchogun.com/FVWebPhotos...D2-ME-3-23.jpg
Here's a link to the repair:
http://www.panchogun.com/FVWebPhotos...ght-Switch.jpg
Last edited by Pancho; Mar 26, 2007 at 01:24 AM.
I was almost going to take it to the dealership but I want to try and erase the codes first. How can I do this without taking it into a dealership?
Greg
The interface and cables and software cost $174 with shipping on ebay.
Link:
http://www.panchogun.com/FVWebPhotos...reakOutBox.jpg
There are also inexpensive code readers, around $50 that clear error codes, but don't extract data. Here's a link to one from the same vendor that sold me the MB Interface. I'm not vouching for this product, but the vendor seems to have a good reputation, and a good return policy:
Link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...QQcmdZViewItem
My 2000 430CLK has both interfaces. I don't know what the standard is in Germany. Here is the location of the two interfaces in my car.
Link:
http://www.panchogun.com/FVWebPhotos...2-&-38-Pin.jpg
I think that I have also read some postings on this forum re. an ignition start/stop procedure that reset these brake codes. Search the forum.
Last edited by Pancho; Mar 26, 2007 at 03:52 AM.
The interface and cables and software cost $174 with shipping on ebay.
Link:
http://www.panchogun.com/FVWebPhotos...reakOutBox.jpg
There are also inexpensive code readers, around $50 that clear error codes, but don't extract data. Here's a link to one from the same vendor that sold me the MB Interface. I'm not vouching for this product, but the vendor seems to have a good reputation, and a good return policy:
Link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...QQcmdZViewItem
My 2000 430CLK has both interfaces. I don't know what the standard is in Germany. Here is the location of the two interfaces in my car.
Link:
http://www.panchogun.com/FVWebPhotos...2-&-38-Pin.jpg
I think that I have also read some postings on this forum re. an ignition start/stop procedure that reset these brake codes. Search the forum.
Well my CLK430 is a US Spec car bought in Florida. I need to buy that 175 dollar unit. Is this sold by you?
Greg
I'm not a seller. I just use it, but I'm thinking about returning my Mercedes Interface (MBIF) and getting a MB Multiplexer (Multi).
Mind you, I've only had my diagnostic system for about 1 week, but there is plenty of info, often confusing, on the net. OK, this is not gospel, so you'll want to check out more info, but, this is how I understand it.
The Mercedes Interface:
The MBIF ($150) will only access one system, the "ME" system which is the "Petrol Engine Control Unit", when plugged directly into your car. It can not switch automatically. Each system has its own "K-line", and the MBIF will only read the ME K-line, and must be connected manually to the other K-lines.
To connect manually to the other 16 or so system's K-lines, you will need a Break Out Box (BOB) ($150 ebay), which easily lets you connect individually to each system's K-line, one at a time. The BOB plugs into your car, and the MBIF plugs into your computer's serial port. Then you plug the MBIF into the BOB, one system at a time. It's easy and convenient, and at about $300 for both the MBIF and the BOB, they typically are less expensive than the Multi.
PS. I don't understand why the BOB would be $150, since it has no electronic components, and you can get all the parts for around $50, and build one yourself with a soldering iron.
The MB Interface (MBIF) I have is from ebay($150). Aside from it being Carsoft 7.4 compatible, you also need to be certain it includes the Carsoft 7.4 software, or else it won't function. Most of these devices do NOT come with the software. Getting the software can be a challenge.
You'll have to provide your own computer that has a serial port (DB9), or figure out some way to connect the MBIF to a more modern USB port. I think there are adapter cables for this. Most of the newer laptop computers do not have serial ports, only USB ports. Fortunately, these older laptops with a serial port can be found on ebay for $200. I have a Compaq Armada M300 notebook. I bought mine new many years ago. Works like a charm. You need to make sure the M300 has the MEU base with floppy & CD; and that the ram and hard drive capacities jibe w/the Carsoft 7.4 software.
The Mercedes Multiplexer (Multi):
The Multi is an automatic switching unit that replaces the regular MBIF. You don't need a breaker box. It switches from system to system automatically. Problem is with the price. These are around $500+, but, sometimes you can find then at a lower price.
Same applies re. software and computer.
PS. I think the OEM equipment at around $5,000. I still don't understand why there is such a difference in the pricing between OEM and the aftermarket.
PPS. This is just the info I have gleaned from the net. There's more info out there.
Last edited by Pancho; Mar 26, 2007 at 12:27 PM.
I'm not a seller. I just use it, but I'm thinking about returning my Mercedes Interface (MBIF) and getting a MB Multiplexer (Multi).
Mind you, I've only had my diagnostic system for about 1 week, but there is plenty of info, often confusing, on the net. OK, this is not gospel, so you'll want to check out more info, but, this is how I understand it.
The Mercedes Interface:
The MBIF ($150) will only access one system, the "ME" system which is the "Petrol Engine Control Unit", when plugged directly into your car. It can not switch automatically. Each system has its own "K-line", and the MBIF will only read the ME K-line, and must be connected manually to the other K-lines.
To connect manually to the other 16 or so system's K-lines, you will need a Break Out Box (BOB) ($150 ebay), which easily lets you connect individually to each system's K-line, one at a time. The BOB plugs into your car, and the MBIF plugs into your computer's serial port. Then you plug the MBIF into the BOB, one system at a time. It's easy and convenient, and at about $300 for both the MBIF and the BOB, they typically are less expensive than the Multi.
PS. I don't understand why the BOB would be $150, since it has no electronic components, and you can get all the parts for around $50, and build one yourself with a soldering iron.
The MB Interface (MBIF) I have is from ebay($150). Aside from it being Carsoft 7.4 compatible, you also need to be certain it includes the Carsoft 7.4 software, or else it won't function. Most of these devices do NOT come with the software. Getting the software can be a challenge.
You'll have to provide your own computer that has a serial port (DB9), or figure out some way to connect the MBIF to a more modern USB port. I think there are adapter cables for this. Most of the newer laptop computers do not have serial ports, only USB ports. Fortunately, these older laptops with a serial port can be found on ebay for $200. I have a Compaq Armada M300 notebook. I bought mine new many years ago. Works like a charm. You need to make sure the M300 has the MEU base with floppy & CD; and that the ram and hard drive capacities jibe w/the Carsoft 7.4 software.
The Mercedes Multiplexer (Multi):
The Multi is an automatic switching unit that replaces the regular MBIF. You don't need a breaker box. It switches from system to system automatically. Problem is with the price. These are around $500+, but, sometimes you can find then at a lower price.
Same applies re. software and computer.
PS. I think the OEM equipment at around $5,000. I still don't understand why there is such a difference in the pricing between OEM and the aftermarket.
PPS. This is just the info I have gleaned from the net. There's more info out there.
All I can say is DAMN!!! You are gonna be a great asset to this site man!!
And yeah I am serving in the Army 15 years in June!!
I think 500 is more than I am willing to spend just now but 300 sound do-able. I need to get my car reset cause of the reocurring ABS lights. I replaced the switch and it just keeps coming on. I was almost going to take it into the dealership to get it reset but I think the money would be better spent going into my own personal unit and being able to reset and read whenever I want. I am going to do some searching aound now that I got some info on it!! Thanks again!!
Greg
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My brother is retired Navy.
My father was a WW2 Navy Vet.
God bless you trooper, stay safe, and protect the good ole U.S. of A.
Put holes in our enemies, and come back to us.
Remember, you can get a simple code reader for about $50 to erase many of those codes.
Link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...QQcmdZViewItem
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As far a TROOPER goes that honor goes to you!!! Those were harder times than anything I have gone through so hats off to you Brother!!
Greg
My brother is retired Navy.
My father was a WW2 Navy Vet.
God bless you trooper, stay safe, and protect the good ole U.S. of A.
Put holes in our enemies, and come back to us.
Remember, you can get a simple code reader for about $50 to erase many of those codes.
Link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...QQcmdZViewItem



