Help for removing instrument cluster
I did read post #46 (before I made my post) and it really doesn't say anything that I couldn't figure out by myself.
For extracting the instrument cluster I use a suction cup (like the ones the mechanics use for fixing dents on the car panels). It's an easy way to pull out the cluster without harming the dashboard or the cluster itself. You can then change the bulbs easily. Remember to pull out the driving wheel as far out as possible, and detach the two clips on the back of the cluster.
The problem I see is... How do I remove the two clips behind the cluster without first removing the cluster? Do I remove the panel under the steering wheel and reach up? Do I use a suction cup and "gently force" the cluster out of the dash? Could it be THAT simple? Any help would be greatly appriciated. Thanks
Thanks... I'm going to tackle to job. I read you're thread about a repair shop in Germany, that fixes the dead pixels in the LCD display. I'll try a shop called BBA Manufacturing outside of Boston, as I get there for business quite often.
Another post suggests using a suction cup on the cluster face. Sure that would help, but if you don't have a 3-6" suction cup lying around... It's really not needed. The other tip I would suggest is that you lower (or extend) the steering wheel column, to give you a little more working space.
I'm sending off the cluster for repair. I'll post the results for all to share.
THANKS!
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Did you have to disconnect the battery?
When i remove my W202 Cluster before they said i would have to disconnect battery or the SRS will come on.
Let us know how much they charge you.
goodluck
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Should help.
Rumor has it that you can make this tool out of some coat hangers.
Cluster is a simple pressure fit.
Make sure your hands are dry, and sometimes you can work it out using the pads of your thumbs.
Link:
http://www.panchogun.com/FVWebPhotos...ight-6x100.jpg
Last edited by Pancho; Apr 4, 2007 at 10:22 AM.
Should help.
Rumor has it that you can make this tool out of some coat hangers.
Cluster is a simple pressure fit.
Make sure your hands are dry, and sometimes you can work it out using the pads of your thumbs.
Link:
http://www.panchogun.com/FVWebPhotos...ight-6x100.jpg
BBA Remanufacturing did an excellent job on my cluster repair. All pixels are back and working. They made sure that cluster was clean. Very professional. The cost was $250, which included shipping & insurance BOTH ways! They setup UPS shipping outbound for you. Just print the label and drop off at UPS. Turn around time was great. I shipped on Monday and received the fixed unit on Friday including shipping time between Detroit and Boston. It has an unlimited warranty, so I'll post back if there are any problems. Here is their website for those interested.
http://www.bba-reman.com/content.asp...edes_Dashboard
Thanks to Pancho for his pictures and post. The MB removal tool really isn't necessary (or at least in my situation). In fact, I think you might have the chance of scraping or damaging the vinyl dashboard. If any tool would be more effective, the suction tool described in an earlier post would be better.
Regarding disconnecting the battery. I didn't! I'm sure it couldn't hurt, in fact, it's probably a smart thing to do. There is voltage constantly going to the cluster. Though the two wiring harness connectors make it virtually impossible to short.
read your post with keen interest.
will bulb replacement fix the missing pixel problem with W208 temp and clock LCD display?
please please say yes!
I have CLK 430 and very keen to get this problem eradicated.
wish I could make you happy, but, unfortunately, the bulb doesn't fix the pixel prob. When my bulb went out, I couldn't see my clock at all. Replaced the bulb, and clock was great, then, about 6 months later, the pixels started failing. Now, I can see the clock, but can't make heads or tails re. the time. Now I am also a candidate for sending my cluster in for a redo.
Such is life in the world of overpriced, pointlessly overcomplicated, and exceedingly fragile German engineering. MB used to make million mile cars. The Germans used to make real road worthy war machines. Now they make tempermental kitty cats that can't give you 50G miles without starting to fall apart.
I buy all of my cars brand new. Next time I'm getting one of the new Shelby KR Mustang convertibles. Twice the car (500 HP) for less dough, $55,000 or so. I'm going to drive my clk cabriolet into the ground first, and squeeze every expensive mile I can out of it. I've had 6 new MBs, and each generation has been getting more expensive and crappier at the same time. Those two characteristics are supposed to diverge, not converge.
Good luck.
Last edited by Pancho; Sep 10, 2007 at 06:59 PM.
Best wishes with yours.
PS. Make certain to disconnect your battery so that the removal of the air bag does not involve a decapitation. It'll ruin the interior.








