Thanks,

I guess the only way to tell if the plate is broken is when they open up the tranny? How much damage will this do to the car. I could only get to the mechanic on weekends and even then, the only guy I trust is about 50 miles away. Should I just tow it? Would rather avoid the ridiculous tow charges if its reasonable to just drive it.

 

On my car, the bad speed sensor signal affected shifting. Driving it, although I only drove it for about 15 miles, did not damage the transmission. Is your car stuck in a particular gear while in drive? If so, could you guess which one it is?

 

At random times when I start to accelerate (i.e. when I want to pass someone on the highway) it will just not engage the gear and my rpm flies into the red zone until I let go of the pedal. It would guess that in the 3 times it has happened, it has done so in 2/3/4 gear. I pull over and restart the car and it shifts thru the gears normally and doesnt get stuck until the next random time. So far it hasnt happened since Sunday but I also dont drive everyday. Just when I have to move the car for alternate side parking regulations.

I have a mechanic ready to do the work for me but I just want to avoid paying for both pieces and not being able to return the piece I didnt need to replace (the plate you mentioned or the actual speed sensor).

Thanks MarcusF

 

The plate which holds the sensors according to what I understand from the parts dept at my local stealership is the following:

A 140 270 11 61 - Electrics Kit

I think this is the piece which was replaced in MarcusF's CLK when he was experiencing his P0715 problems.

 

Marcus,

Which is a good scanner to buy for the money? What are some of the ones most people or yourself use and where do you get one?

Thanks!

 

A plain, 16-pin OBDII scanner will do. If it says it works with SAE J1850 PWM, SAE J1850 VPW, and ISO9 141-2 OBDII protocols, it’ll display your codes. I bought mine at Manuals Unlimited for $50 or $60, but that was several years ago and prices have increased. They are available on E-Bay. The codes are available at Signal to Noise in the OBDII section.

*I think* the Digimoto DigiScan is the best scanner for the money. It costs at least twice as much as a generic scanner, but to me, it’s worth the money. Digimoto is software that runs on a PC and uses an USB to OBDII port interface to talk to a car. The usual question is, "What can it do that the scanner can't?" A scanner will show a five digit OBD II code. Digimoto will too. The difference is Digimoto will show this as well.











These are what the codes look like with a Digimoto:



If someone wants to buy may scanner, I'll sell it for $50 plus shipping. Then I'll pick up a Digimoto.

 

and he told me that the contacts on the electrics kit go bad and that usually leads to the p0715 code. The sensors arent usually the problem. I replaced the part this weekend with my cousin who is an ASE certified tech. I use him to do all my work lately and he has been getting around the car just fine. While under the car with him this weekend, we unplugged the electric component which plugs into the harness ring which leads up to the TCU. Then we unplugged the trans plug so the trans oil would drain out. Not a lot came out but it came out a ugly and disturbing brown. Scary considering that the fresh transfluid looks like rose wine.

The we unbolted the heat shield which protects the wires near the trans pan and the exhaust pipes. Followed by all the screws holding in place trans pan. Comes off relatively easily. Watch out as you drop the pan cause not all the trans fluid comes out thru the plug and some of it stays in there so just be careful or prepare for a cleanup.

Exposed you will see the trans filter and above that the valve body. On top of the valve body is the electrics kit. The trans filter isnt held in by anything so just gently pull it down and it will come right out. Holding the valve body in place are just torx scews. I dont remember the amount but there was about 10 plus or minus 3 screws and then there was one screw which was a completely different color than the other screws and it was not around the border like the other screws so just be wary of that. Unscrew all of them and the valve body should drop right out with minimal amount of massaging. Once you have it out you will be exposed to the electrics kit. Pretty straight forward process and just follow all steps backwards to reinstall.

When replacing the electrics kit, you will see the sensors and solenoids which are to be reused in your new eletrics kit so remember the placement of them all when you take them out and reinstall them back into the new electrics kit.

If anyone in the metro area needs help with the process, my cousin is willing to come out to you and take care of the entire process. He has done a few jobs for me now, changing spark plugs, O2 sensors, brake pad and rotor changes. In the coming month he will also be installing my H&R springs and Bilstein shocks so feel free to reach out to me for a good mechanic who is charging sub-indie shop prices in labor.

 

An ASE cert'd tech is your cousin?! Damn, anymore room in the family?

So how is she driving now? Any more problems?

 

Unfortunately the code came back up after 2 weeks (P0715), which is leading me to believe that the electronics plate was not the problem and the sensor might be the problem.

Now I need help just figuring out which sensor on that plate is the input speed sensor. If anyone could take a look at the pictures I posted above and know off hand in which position the sensor would be on that plate - that would be helpful.

I hate the idea of having to open up the tranny again but I guess I gotta do what I gotta do.

 

So I've had my 04 CLK500 for about a year and decided to give it a scan
after a long drive.. Note that my transmission DRIVES just fine..

The car seems to drive fine except two fault codes were pulled up:

- P0700 (2069) Component N15/3 ETC control module memory is fault.

- 4502 The gear is implausible or the transmission is slipping.


The car drives great however, sometimes driving down steep hills I downshift into 3rd or 2nd to help slow the car down, I am wondering if this possibly could have triggered the codes?

I am not able to clear one of the codes.
Is this something I should be concerned about?

I've read many topics of oil dripping on the 13pin connector,
any pictures of where to find and look for this?

Please help!

Thanks

 

It’s my understanding that a STAR box (dealer) is required to clear the transmission codes. I couldn’t clear mine, and my code reader does have that function.

Downshifting should not trigger codes.

The thirteen pin connector is the wiring harness that comes out of the passenger side front of the transmission. The car will have to be on a lift / jack stands / ramps for you to see it. I've seen a picture on this forum before, but I don't remember which thread. The $2 o-ring that seals the wires from transmission fluid is the infamous wiring harness o-ring.

Personally, this is what I would do:
Have the transmission fluid changed. If it hasn’t been done by now, it’s due. While the fluid is being changed, have the dealer replace the seal on the 13 pin connector. The new seal is upgraded, and (allegedly) will never leak. Lastly, I'd have the dealer clear the codes. If fluid has wicked up to the TCU, have the dealer clean it. If you're handy, you can clean the TCU yourself. I think Greg did it and posted a "how to". Do a search on GREGORY13LIL. Greg is a good guy, he'll probably read this and give you details. I shipped him a free copy of the WIS the other week, so he may give you "official instructions".

 

HAHA...I just read this and you are right, I will help himout with some pics as well. BUT...I am off to my daughter's school for some party that she says I MUST attend LOL.

As soon as I get back I will post some pics!!

But for now: https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ol-module.html

 

the generic p0700 code usually means "transmission component slipping" not a good code to pull.......

 

sorry to resurrect this thread guys. I also do not want to start a new one when there is already a ton of information on this existing one.

I think i might have this tranny problem on my CLK 230 KOMPRESSOR hence the information from this is very crucial for me. My tranny is stuck on 1st gear by the way

Anyway, My question is - is the shift sensor plate issue related to my reverse light not turning on when I shift to reverse? I have to wiggle the shifter a bit and kinda try to find the right angle and spot on the "R" slot to trigger the reverse light. Or, its someting else? I cant seem to find the electronic part on the shifter that may be responsible for this issue. TIA!

 

Have you dumped the codes, and if so what did you get?

 

Hi MarcusF. Sorry i dont have a code reader. I dropped off the CLK to an indy this morning. The indy hasnt reported back. I really think i should invest in a code reader. What do you use?

 

Hi Guys, Just wanted to close the issue on my own inquiry for everyones benefit. The answer is a NO. The sensor plate for my transmission was replaced but it DID NOT SOLVE my reverse light trigger switch issue.

However, my jerking and non-shifting issue is now completely gone. Cheers!

 

If the conductor plate is replaced on a 722.6 trans, but the trans code is not cleared (assume only the ECU code is cleared), will the trans act up again and kick into limp mode?

thanx - torn between doing this job myself or going to MB Dealer. It's for an 02 E320. 96K Mi