sobtypes@aol.co

Hersh, what shop are you using? Im sure you already know the one on communipaw. They have done my work in the past and they def know there sh:!

deyainrdy4ds

which shop on communipaw..thers a million lil shtty ones lol....i know theres ones that specializes in euros or smtn n there a decent one across from mcdonalds....

deyainrdy4ds

oh yeah...btw...does anyone know if driving with a totally messed up alignment with super negative camber and toe can set off the BAS/ESP/ABS lights? ...i only started gettin em after the camber kit install....

my front wheel negative camber is how my rear is usually is...and my rear is prob at about -5 degrees! lol ..look at how its sittin

da_guitarist

I wouldn't be surprised if that caused bas/esp faults. it looks for the # of rotations of all wheels in comparison. If any wheel is at a significantly different angle than the others, the readouts will differ and can cause a fault (one or two wheels may rotate more/less than the others)

deyainrdy4ds

ok cool im hopinn thats all it is and that i dont have another problem on mmy hands

hhseouljah

hersh, i would pm clkfan about that, as he's always running dumped with mad camber.

sfclk

paypal emailed me back saying paypal will issue the refund if i send the defective part back to the ebay seller with proof of delivery within 10 days.

so i ordered this right away...

drag link from mercedesparts came out to $142 shipped 2nd day air via ups

Vehicle:1999, MERCEDES BENZ, CLK320, CLK320 / V6-3199cc
1 Drag Link
assembly W/ Tie Rods;packing Size: piece; Years:; Per Car Qty:1; TRUCKTEC MBZ076091 $108.84 $108.84
Subtotal: $108.84
Shipping - UPS 2nd Day Air: $25.37
Total Weight (9.0lbs. ):
CA residents pay 7.75 % Tax: $8.44
Order Total: $142.65

deyainrdy4ds

nice ...i ended up gettin the trucktec from them too cuz at autohaus, it was a gamble n they didnt know which was gunna ship - trucktec or febi bilstein....so i went with mercedesparts.com ..... shipped today....

i need my alignment done already...ASAP! ..rears camber is sittin ridiculoussss lol

AMS Performance

You need to roll your fenders & run camber arms, your rear is sitting too low as well, that only makes the problem worse. you are probably running -5.0 camber or worse, no wonder you have traction problems

sobtypes@aol.co

The place is called M and B not as far as mcDonalds. The place looks like **** but the guy knew his stuff with our cars there are all benzes in the lot if you drive by. The number is 201 333 8181

deyainrdy4ds

lol ya its not usually like that..jus been like that since the camber kit was put in...i MIGHT need to roll my fenders once i get to 0* ...ill see when i get to that point..hopefully soon lol.....prob wont need camber arms...thats why i got the kmac camber bushings put in


hmm...is it right across from "fabolous" with the blue sign....i got my car tinted there ....ill give em a call for a quote..thanks bro

sfclk

bilstein is febi...http://www.febi.com/

when did you order? did you have it ground shipped? hopefully, they ship my order from this morning tomorrow and i receive it by monday, the 16th.

btw, i don't think you want 0 camber, have it setup to -1.5 all around. i'm looking to have mine set at 2.5 rear, 2 front when i get hr springs in.

deyainrdy4ds

ya i know...but for $175, they were shipping EITHER trucktec OR febi/bilstein....either or....n no way of knowing...dint wanna order for 175 n end up gettin the trucktec which i coulda got for 108...u know...

i ordered yesterday..it shipped today i believe...ground to jersey...prob by next monday or tuesday...

y not 0 camber? i was previously at -2 up front and back and my fronts were wearing real bad on the inside...rears werent too bad....

sfclk

...oh i see.

they're shipping from CA(i got taxed!). you'd probably get it earliest by the 18th.

atleast go with oem specs. it's not going to be 0 camber. adding 1-2 negative degrees of camber improves handling.

why not adjust the rear by eye to get rid of some negative camber? you should just have to lift the rear, loosen a nut, turn a bolt for desired camber, then tighten the nut while holding the bolt.

AMS Performance

Zero camber provides MAXIMUM straight line traction and its the only way to prevent inner tire wear. Honestly it also looks much better too and gives the car a wider stance and makes it look better (in my opinion). And remember, as the rear end squats it naturally bring in negative camber (whether it be in corners or under accel) so its still not too aggressive, in fact its the best for the street (honestly less than 1% of MB drivers take their car to the track, even on this forum so negative camber is honestly unnecessary). Also, you can compensate for zero camber by just running much wider tires). The amount of extra traction you get by running a true zero camber is pretty impressive in a straight line because otherwise you are just chewing up the insides of your tires and a lot of power is lows via braking by traction control anyways so it will also help your rear brake pads last longer). Honestly, I do not think the Kmacs can adjust that much you only get a little bit of adjustment.

You can roll & Flare the stock fenders to get a extra 1-2" of clearance easy, plus flaring them (with tirerack fender tool, link & pic below)) gives the car a much better look as well b/c the stock fender lip actually comes in alittle bit and is not true flush. just make sure you heat up the paint a bit (or do it in direct sunlight during the summer when the metal is naturally very hot). Hope that helps.



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Eastw...motiveQ5fTools

sfclk

i would think a little postive camber would provide max traction because of squatting.

AMS Performance

ok let me rephrase... Zero camber is the maximum straight line traction without making your car look ridiculously goofy haha... plus you cannot run positive b/c the wheels would run right into the fenders (b/c the arc of the suspension is totally changed) so zero is pretty much as positive as you can go and even then its a tight fit but at least you won't rub up on the insides of the fenders.

sfclk

ya, deyainrdy4ds probably cant run 0 anyway.

so why are most cars setup with slight negative camber?

when close to 0 camber, won't outside tire wear be accelerated, especially on the front tires?

drag link shipped this morning...

...

deyainrdy4ds

i tried adjusting it by hand when i had the rear jacked up but those bolts just wudnt move so the cars just sittin in the garage..its aight since im goin on vacation in 3 days anyway ...ill get it fixed 2 days after i return...

i THINK the kmacs should be adjustable to very close to 0...i think previous users have reported so...plus i was at -2 before the camber kit install so it better be able to move quite a bit closer to 0 since i wasnt THAT bad before...but enough to chew up my tires.......i prob will want to and need to roll my fenders after doing so but i guess ill know soon after the alignment etc

Shipment Dates

Ship date

Mar 10, 2009

Estimated delivery

Mar 16, 2009

Shipment Facts
Help
Service type
Ground-Domestic

Weight
12.0 lbs/5.4 kg

PS - did you used to have a black on black wheels clk or is that another user im mixin u up with?

sfclk

...not me.

AMS Performance

No, zero camber means even wear across the whole tire. You will still probably get slight inner tire wear because most of the time you are either going over bumps or the rear end is squatting for acceleration so the tire wear is still going to be slightly on the inside but it will be MUCH less and more importantly the weight of the car will be distributed evenly over the width of the tire for maximum traction across the entire tread block vs. more on inside (hence better traction).

sfclk

so why are most cars setup with slight negative camber?

MarcusF

A degree or so of negative camber on both sides improves cornering without much of an effect on tire life. The goal is to have the negative camber change to zero camber as the vehicle’s weight shifts on to the outer tire in a curve. This creates a nice fat contact patch when it’s needed most. The W208 has an unequal length double wishbone design. In a curve, it rotates causing negative camber (in relation to the rest of the vehicle) on the outer wheel. Although negative to the body, the tire in a more verticle position to the ground, utilizing that fat contact patch I just mentioned. All factory alignment specs for the W208 call for negative camber. If they had neutral or positive camber, the car would devour tires and handle poorly.

AMS Performance

The effect of negative camber on handling is not as extreme as most make it out to be, it does help alittle bit, but you are much better off getting very high quality wide rubber at zero camber than mediocre tires with alot of negative camber. The car certainly won't perform badly in corners but more importantly you will get much more straight line traction and it will give the car a more planted feel vs. the squirrely feel negative camber can give a car.

Williams707

Front

1. Front Camber: Min -1 degree 16' | Max -0 degree 36'
   
2. Front Caster: Min 4 degree 23' | Max 5 degree 23'
   
3. Front Toe: Min 1.4mm | Max 3.3mm

Rear

1. Rear Camber: Min -1 degree 45' | Max -0 degree 45'
   
2. Rear Toe: Min 2.4mm | Max 3.8mm