CLK-Class (W208) 1998-2002: CLK 200, CLK 230K, CLK 320, CLK 430 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

Centerlink / Inner Tie Rod / Drag Link....HELP!

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Old Mar 7, 2009 | 12:24 PM
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Centerlink / Inner Tie Rod / Drag Link....HELP!

Centerlink / Inner Tie Rod / Drag Link....HELP!

so i went to get an alignment but they said they couldnt because i need new inner tie rods up front.... or better known as the centerlink or drag link ...its 1 big long piece...they said i have too much play with the wheels when the cars jacked up.....moves around too much when hands are at 3 and 9 o clock.....

i believe this is the part i need (shops were quoting 250-300 for the part)...anyone know any other source for the part of know if its possible to do myself?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=
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Old Mar 7, 2009 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by deyainrdy4ds
Centerlink / Inner Tie Rod / Drag Link....HELP!

so i went to get an alignment but they said they couldnt because i need new inner tie rods up front.... or better known as the centerlink or drag link ...its 1 big long piece...they said i have too much play with the wheels when the cars jacked up.....moves around too much when hands are at 3 and 9 o clock.....

i believe this is the part i need (shops were quoting 250-300 for the part)...anyone know any other source for the part of know if its possible to do myself?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=

WoW What timing. Just had mine replaced last week because my car was shaking like a 9.0 earthquake when driving 55mph

They also recommended replacing the Steering Damper so you may also want to do that as well if you have not done so already.

Drag Link Assembly w/ Tie Rods Part Number: 202460505.

Last edited by Williams707; Mar 7, 2009 at 09:07 PM.
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Old Mar 7, 2009 | 08:49 PM
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ya my dampner was done when i cracked my tranny oil pan last year ....will, does that ebay link i posted look like the same part u just got replaced? how many hrs of labor went into it?
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Old Mar 7, 2009 | 09:05 PM
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2000 CLK 320
Originally Posted by deyainrdy4ds
ya my dampner was done when i cracked my tranny oil pan last year ....will, does that ebay link i posted look like the same part u just got replaced? how many hrs of labor went into it?
Yes same part number. I had several things done

Replaced:
1. Coolant Tank
2. Steering Damper
3. Tie Rod
4. Allignment

Since it is a small shop that I go to it took them 2 days with home delivery service. They bring me home and bring me my car when they are done

I am about to replace my lower arm bushings with polyurethane ones next.
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Old Mar 7, 2009 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Williams707
WoW What timing. Just had mine replaced last week because my car was shaking like a 9.0 earthquake when driving 55mph

They also recommended replacing the Steering Damper so you may also want to do that as well if you have not done so already.

Drag Link Assembly w/ Tie Rods Part Number: 202460505 is shot.
how's it driving now?
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Old Mar 7, 2009 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by sfclk
how's it driving now?
Like a Virgin..Nice and Tight.

Well, that's how I like my car to feel...
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Old Mar 7, 2009 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Williams707
Like a Virgin..Nice and Tight.

Well, that's how I like my car to feel...


how much did it come out to?

i went cheap for $110 off ebay.
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Old Mar 7, 2009 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by sfclk


how much did it come out to?

i went cheap for $110 off ebay.
Well mine needed replaced immediately, it was that bad so I could not wait to order from the US and in Japan most parts are x 1/3 - 2/3rds more expensive that in the US. I ended up paying $400 for it.
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Old Mar 7, 2009 | 10:10 PM
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Replacing the whole assembly (including the steering damper) makes a HUGE difference. It literally feels like a rack & pinion setup after replacing all the worn items. Most W208s probably have completely worn parts without their owners even knowing it and then they complain about lack of steering feedback & etc without realizing it is not a design flaw but failing old parts. If you get that weird rolling over sensation when turning the steering wheel (just flops over all of a sudden past 3/4 turn) then you most likely have a worn setup) . Honestly the install is not THAT hard assuming you have a lift, its basically just 4-5 bolts, you do have to take off front wheels to do it but other then that... its relatively straight forward. The steering wheel feel MUCH more precise afterwards and it will make the car drive like new again. Avg total cost including parts & labor for everything (all the links & damper) is about $450ish. hope that helps

Last edited by AMS Performance; Mar 7, 2009 at 10:12 PM.
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Old Mar 8, 2009 | 12:18 AM
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thanks for the post guys....AMS - i havent forgot about u but this is y i havent got back to u yet - no alignment still! ....so is it worth attempting myself if its just a couple bolts? i might as well order the part since $110 seems great compared to the 250+ ive been being quoted....

anyone have feedback on my other alignment problem? i need a right rear wheel bearing
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Old Mar 8, 2009 | 03:20 AM
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Honestly, I would go with the OEM benz part b/c it appears the tie rod end link bushings are much sturdier on the stock unit (they barely even bend, very thick bushings). Those seem more flexible (and thats not necessarily a good thing).

No worries take your time, safety comes first, you should definitely get this replace b/c it is not safe to drive your car for extended periods without fixing this.

The lowest prices you will see on OEM parts is at www.azautohaus.com , I have yet to see an online site beat their prices. Fast quick shipping and often times they will even do free shipping on certain items (as long as order is over $50).

I just checked for you, the price is $175 on AZautohaus which is much less, and that is for OEM part.

You do need some tools, (mbtechs use an air powered fork chisel to separate the tie rod ends from the actual wheel hubs themselves (to create enough of gap to loosen them up). This probably isn't 100% necessary, A rubber mallet may do the trick just fine. Other then that I think its all just standard 12 or 13mm bolts (I forget which). Its literally those bolts you see in the picture. A lift is almost mandatory because you need to have the entire front end off the ground and detach both front wheels in order to allow full articulation of the steering in order to line up & match all the holes once you start putting everything back together.

Once you get under there you will start to see how the entire system is interconnected and after that its actually pretty self explanatory. majority of the slop/play most W208 owners complain about is for this very reason, their stock ones are shot and they assume its design flaw when their parts are probably dangerously old & worn out.

Hope that helps.

(pic for reference)

Last edited by AMS Performance; Mar 8, 2009 at 03:22 AM.
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Old Mar 8, 2009 | 11:53 AM
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thanks man......i think ill give it a try once i get the part.....good thing i didnt order that part off ebay already....so u recommend not gettin that one off ebay?

175 doesnt seem bad for oem but ne lil bit helps right now for this unexpected cost :-/
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Old Mar 8, 2009 | 12:06 PM
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i just checked out autohausz....the brand is has listed is "trucktec" ....this looks like the same one at $108? http://mercedesparts.com/ShopByVehic...eering&mode=PA
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Old Mar 8, 2009 | 01:11 PM
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The AZ autohaus ones are Febi-Bilstein (OEM supplier), Just had a set in and the quality is excellent. Just order it off AZ autohaus for piece of mind, plus you get free shipping. I recommend getting a new steering damper while you are at it (about $25), so $20 for everything, its worth ever penny. hope that helps
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Old Mar 8, 2009 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by AMS Performance
The AZ autohaus ones are Febi-Bilstein (OEM supplier), Just had a set in and the quality is excellent. Just order it off AZ autohaus for piece of mind, plus you get free shipping. I recommend getting a new steering damper while you are at it (about $25), so $20 for everything, its worth ever penny. hope that helps
oo ok so its not that same brand is the one i linked? ...i jus replaced my dampner about a year / 8-9k miles ago...should i still replace it
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Old Mar 8, 2009 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by deyainrdy4ds
oo ok so its not that same brand is the one i linked? ...i jus replaced my dampner about a year / 8-9k miles ago...should i still replace it
I was told that they are good for about 90K
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by deyainrdy4ds
oo ok so its not that same brand is the one i linked? ...i jus replaced my dampner about a year / 8-9k miles ago...should i still replace it
No, your damper is still good then (they give like every 30-50k, although its more about age than mileage, just get the links)
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 10:52 AM
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I was under the assumption you could not replace the center drag link/ tie rods yourself because you need to get an alignment done immediately following the replacement (you should not drive the car without getting the alignment done first). Is this not the case???
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Williams707
I was told that they are good for about 90K
Originally Posted by AMS Performance
No, your damper is still good then (they give like every 30-50k, although its more about age than mileage, just get the links)
cool i should be good for that then

Originally Posted by chem1441
I was under the assumption you could not replace the center drag link/ tie rods yourself because you need to get an alignment done immediately following the replacement (you should not drive the car without getting the alignment done first). Is this not the case???
i hope thats not the case since im probably doin the centerlink install and alignment and different places
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 11:36 AM
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You do need an alignment. you can try and get it as close as possible to the old one but you will need an alignment soon their after. if you get the toe close enough to being straight you should be ok for like 10 miles worth of driving but still, you need alignment soon after.
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by AMS Performance
You do need an alignment. you can try and get it as close as possible to the old one but you will need an alignment soon their after. if you get the toe close enough to being straight you should be ok for like 10 miles worth of driving but still, you need alignment soon after.
ya im def gunna get one after...just about 20-30 miles after max distance....

would you happen to have any insight on my bearing replacement? shop said i need to change my right rear bearing too
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by deyainrdy4ds
i just checked out autohausz....the brand is has listed is "trucktec" ....this looks like the same one at $108? http://mercedesparts.com/ShopByVehic...eering&mode=PA
i'll probably end up ordering from them.
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 05:15 PM
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haters crazy
Cant you just replace the tie rod ends?
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by blackbenzz
Cant you just replace the tie rod ends?
i dont think so?

yo do u remember if my wheels had a lot of play when u guys did my suspension...for some reason, i think i remember one of u possibly sayin that..mayb cliff....i dono lol
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 06:59 PM
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it is best to replace everything at once, if any one of those joints has any play in it the entire link system is basically worthless and not doing its job. Just buy the whole set it will make the car feel much better.
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