Centerlink / Inner Tie Rod / Drag Link....HELP!
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: NYC/NJ/NoVA
2001 CLK 55
Former Vendor of MBWorld
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AMG
. You may want to run a tiny bit of toe, you don't have to run full zero since it does give you a bit more precise handling with a bit of toe. , just have them set toe to stock specs.
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From: SCV SoCal
2002 CLK430
The effect of negative camber on handling is not as extreme as most make it out to be, it does help alittle bit, but you are much better off getting very high quality wide rubber at zero camber than mediocre tires with alot of negative camber. The car certainly won't perform badly in corners but more importantly you will get much more straight line traction and it will give the car a more planted feel vs. the squirrely feel negative camber can give a car.
You have no idea what you're talking about. When a car is aligned, it's on an alignment rack – and the car is stationary. The alignment specifications take that into consideration, because when the car is moving, the suspension geometry changes. When a car moves in a forward direction, the car's center of gravity moves rearward (weight shift), and the front suspension is unloaded. When the suspension is unloaded, the geometry changes. If the front end of a car had zero camber while stationary, it would have POSITIVE camber while in motion. That's what your alignment recommendation will result in - positive camber while moving forward.
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AMG
Yes,
Lots of people purposely run zero camber on the REARS (I am talking about rears, I never said run zero on fronts, please read carefully) for maximum straightline traction. On the front it isn't as significant, usually you run alittle bit more in front than rears. Running Zero on rears is the best way to get maximum traction and the reason CLKs have problems getting power to the ground is they run too much negative camber (especially when dropped).
MarcusF, I'm flattered that you must follow up every single one of my posts via search but don't let it get out of hand, this is the nth thread you done that.
Lots of people purposely run zero camber on the REARS (I am talking about rears, I never said run zero on fronts, please read carefully) for maximum straightline traction. On the front it isn't as significant, usually you run alittle bit more in front than rears. Running Zero on rears is the best way to get maximum traction and the reason CLKs have problems getting power to the ground is they run too much negative camber (especially when dropped).
MarcusF, I'm flattered that you must follow up every single one of my posts via search but don't let it get out of hand, this is the nth thread you done that.
Last edited by AMS Performance; Mar 14, 2009 at 07:00 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,784
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From: SCV SoCal
2002 CLK430
Yes,
Lots of people purposely run zero camber on the REARS (I am talking about rears, I never said run zero on fronts, please read carefully) for maximum straightline traction. On the front it isn't as significant, usually you run alittle bit more in front than rears. Running Zero on rears is the best way to get maximum traction and the reason CLKs have problems getting power to the ground is they run too much negative camber (especially when dropped).
MarcusF, I'm flattered that you must follow up every single one of my posts via search but don't let it get out of hand, this is the nth thread you done that.
Lots of people purposely run zero camber on the REARS (I am talking about rears, I never said run zero on fronts, please read carefully) for maximum straightline traction. On the front it isn't as significant, usually you run alittle bit more in front than rears. Running Zero on rears is the best way to get maximum traction and the reason CLKs have problems getting power to the ground is they run too much negative camber (especially when dropped).
MarcusF, I'm flattered that you must follow up every single one of my posts via search but don't let it get out of hand, this is the nth thread you done that.
And what’s up with your nonsense about me following you around? LOL I’ve posted over 1100 times. I remember pointing out your insanity twice. You must have me confused with someone.
Zero camber - I’m still laughing. Ever ride a motorcycle? Ever go around a curve with the tires at zero camber?
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Yokohama, Japan
2000 CLK 320
Zero camber? According to you, someone should walk into an alignment shop and say "I'd like you to align that car. I want zero camber."
You have no idea what you're talking about. When a car is aligned, it's on an alignment rack – and the car is stationary. The alignment specifications take that into consideration, because when the car is moving, the suspension geometry changes. When a car moves in a forward direction, the car's center of gravity moves rearward (weight shift), and the front suspension is unloaded. When the suspension is unloaded, the geometry changes. If the front end of a car had zero camber while stationary, it would have POSITIVE camber while in motion. That's what your alignment recommendation will result in - positive camber while moving forward.
You have no idea what you're talking about. When a car is aligned, it's on an alignment rack – and the car is stationary. The alignment specifications take that into consideration, because when the car is moving, the suspension geometry changes. When a car moves in a forward direction, the car's center of gravity moves rearward (weight shift), and the front suspension is unloaded. When the suspension is unloaded, the geometry changes. If the front end of a car had zero camber while stationary, it would have POSITIVE camber while in motion. That's what your alignment recommendation will result in - positive camber while moving forward.
Is this more accurate for our cars? This data was given to me when I went to have a digital alignment. P.S. Thanks for the DIY complement.
CLK W208 Alignment Minimum to Maximum Data
Front
- Front Camber: Min -1 degree 16' | Max -0 degree 36'
- Front Caster: Min 4 degree 23' | Max 5 degree 23'
- Front Toe: Min 1.4mm | Max 3.3mm
Rear
- Rear Camber: Min -1 degree 45' | Max -0 degree 45'
- Rear Toe: Min 2.4mm | Max 3.8mm
Last edited by Williams707; Mar 16, 2009 at 07:18 AM.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: SCV SoCal
2002 CLK430
Is this more accurate for our cars? This data was given to me when I went to have a digital alignment. P.S. Thanks for the DIY complement.
Front
CLK W208 Alignment Minimum to Maximum Data
Front
- Front Camber: Min -1 degree 16' | Max -0 degree 36'
- Front Caster: Min 4 degree 23' | Max 5 degree 23'
- Front Toe: Min 1.4mm | Max 3.3mm
I’ve attached a number of photos from an alignment article I wrote several years ago. The first photo shows the pickups on the wheels. Next you can see the camera bolted to the wall. The camera ‘looks’ at the pickups on all four wheels and passes that info in real time to the monitor. The third photo is the monitor, which tells the tech what the total alignment (all four wheels) looks like in real time. The reason all four are important is because changing one corner changes the other three. That third photo is what a 220 S looked like when it came into the shop. It had been aligned three times at another shop and still didn’t ride right. The areas you see in red are why. The last photo is the front end after the alignment. In the upper left of the first green bar, you can see the minimum camber spec. To the right is the maximum. Look carefully at the green bars. You’ll note they’re not flat across the top. Those recesses are the sweet spots. It steps down twice. The tech wants it in the lowest section for all areas, but it’s not possible. Close is as good as it gets. Getting it right for one wheel pulls it out for another – and those are just the front. Adjusting the rear changes the front, and visa versa.
You deserved the DIY complement. It was a four star post and we should be thanking you – you are the man!
Last edited by MarcusF; Mar 17, 2009 at 12:04 PM. Reason: to fix the text sizing
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 576
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1999 CLK320
MarcusF, do the alignment ranges account for the driver's weight? caster not adjustable?
i remember reading that some cars were designed to sit higher at the driver's corner to compensate for the driver's weight.
i remember reading that some cars were designed to sit higher at the driver's corner to compensate for the driver's weight.
Last edited by sfclk; Mar 17, 2009 at 02:57 AM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: SCV SoCal
2002 CLK430
I've never seen a new Mercedes-Benz that sat higher on the driver's side. When changing them, if the spring doesn't seat properly in the pad, the ride height at that corner will be higher. When you pull your pads, you'll notice they are deformed. They do that over time. Rather than trying to fit the new spring in the old deformed pad, some people buy new pads with their new springs.On a W208, caster is indirectly adjustable by using multiple camber bolt kits. This is another good reason for using a shop that has $50K+ in alignment equipment - adjust the camber to change the caster without getting the camber out of spec. Here's a picture of the camber bolt.
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From: Hotlanta
AMG
A degree or so of negative camber on both sides improves cornering without much of an effect on tire life. The goal is to have the negative camber change to zero camber as the vehicle’s weight shifts on to the outer tire in a curve. This creates a nice fat contact patch when it’s needed most. The W208 has an unequal length double wishbone design. In a curve, it rotates causing negative camber (in relation to the rest of the vehicle) on the outer wheel. Although negative to the body, the tire in a more verticle position to the ground, utilizing that fat contact patch I just mentioned. All factory alignment specs for the W208 call for negative camber. If they had neutral or positive camber, the car would devour tires and handle poorly.
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: SCV SoCal
2002 CLK430
I'm at 130,000. It's still running good too. I just did the B service and it didn't need any oil since the last service - 10,000 miles ago! Truth be told, I did a "half-a-B" service. I'll change cabin and engine air filters this weekend. I got distracted building some new MB web pages :
Additional photos of the new E-Coupe , which was an add on to another page.
The new AMG SLS Gullwing
That and I'm looking at those Alpine iDA head units.
These are just radios and media managers. They read flash drives, iPhones, and iPods. I'm trying to find out if the flash drive can be replaced with a 500GB USB powered external hard drive. Couple that with the PAC cable so the steering wheel controls still work, and the only other question will be if it will plug into the OE Bose amp, or if new amps, speakers and rewiring is needed. I'm looking at all these projects to take my mind off the fact that you AMG guys are so much faster than us mere mortals.
Additional photos of the new E-Coupe , which was an add on to another page.
The new AMG SLS Gullwing
That and I'm looking at those Alpine iDA head units.
These are just radios and media managers. They read flash drives, iPhones, and iPods. I'm trying to find out if the flash drive can be replaced with a 500GB USB powered external hard drive. Couple that with the PAC cable so the steering wheel controls still work, and the only other question will be if it will plug into the OE Bose amp, or if new amps, speakers and rewiring is needed. I'm looking at all these projects to take my mind off the fact that you AMG guys are so much faster than us mere mortals.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 576
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1999 CLK320
MarcusF, I had a set of 4 of the front camber bolts for max negative camber.
i cannot understand how shortening or lengthening the lower control arm with camber bolts can change caster.
also, do you know how many degrees 3mm is? i didnt some converting and calculated close to .5 degrees.
i cannot understand how shortening or lengthening the lower control arm with camber bolts can change caster.
also, do you know how many degrees 3mm is? i didnt some converting and calculated close to .5 degrees.
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: SCV SoCal
2002 CLK430
MarcusF, I had a set of 4 of the front camber bolts for max negative camber.
i cannot understand how shortening or lengthening the lower control arm with camber bolts can change caster.
also, do you know how many degrees 3mm is? i didnt some converting and calculated close to .5 degrees.
i cannot understand how shortening or lengthening the lower control arm with camber bolts can change caster.
also, do you know how many degrees 3mm is? i didnt some converting and calculated close to .5 degrees.
Sorry, but I have no idea what 3mm would translate to in degrees.
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Yokohama, Japan
2000 CLK 320
Yes,
Lots of people purposely run zero camber on the REARS (I am talking about rears, I never said run zero on fronts, please read carefully) for maximum straightline traction. On the front it isn't as significant, usually you run alittle bit more in front than rears. Running Zero on rears is the best way to get maximum traction and the reason CLKs have problems getting power to the ground is they run too much negative camber (especially when dropped).
MarcusF, I'm flattered that you must follow up every single one of my posts via search but don't let it get out of hand, this is the nth thread you done that.
Lots of people purposely run zero camber on the REARS (I am talking about rears, I never said run zero on fronts, please read carefully) for maximum straightline traction. On the front it isn't as significant, usually you run alittle bit more in front than rears. Running Zero on rears is the best way to get maximum traction and the reason CLKs have problems getting power to the ground is they run too much negative camber (especially when dropped).
MarcusF, I'm flattered that you must follow up every single one of my posts via search but don't let it get out of hand, this is the nth thread you done that.
Seems that Marcus is only providing Constructive Criticism so instead of getting angry debate his argument, prove him wrong, reinforce your argument with factual data or some visuals; otherwise people will lean in his direction which is not good for you because people would question your knowledge about our cars and possibly reconsider buy parts from you.
I am one of them especially seeing that you have not responded to my PM or Emails about my questions to your upcoming V6 W208 Headers 
Do you have similar instructions / explanation / diagram for the front?
MarcusForPresident
Sorry to group you in the same post with your Arch Rival
Last edited by Williams707; Mar 17, 2009 at 07:29 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,784
Likes: 84
From: SCV SoCal
2002 CLK430
I don't know about president. Those guys never drive cars. Although some have flown fighter jets, which probably make sport bikes seem like driving a minivan . . .
Lastly, someone should start a tech thread on headers/exhaust tech. Tubing diameter, collector angles, negative pulses, it could get interesting. If AMS starts the thread I promise not to post. I don't want to be accused of stalking.
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,734
Likes: 65
From: Hotlanta
AMG
I'm at 130,000. It's still running good too. I just did the B service and it didn't need any oil since the last service - 10,000 miles ago! Truth be told, I did a "half-a-B" service. I'll change cabin and engine air filters this weekend. I got distracted building some new MB web pages :
Additional photos of the new E-Coupe , which was an add on to another page.
The new AMG SLS Gullwing
That and I'm looking at those Alpine iDA head units.
These are just radios and media managers. They read flash drives, iPhones, and iPods. I'm trying to find out if the flash drive can be replaced with a 500GB USB powered external hard drive. Couple that with the PAC cable so the steering wheel controls still work, and the only other question will be if it will plug into the OE Bose amp, or if new amps, speakers and rewiring is needed. I'm looking at all these projects to take my mind off the fact that you AMG guys are so much faster than us mere mortals.
Additional photos of the new E-Coupe , which was an add on to another page.
The new AMG SLS Gullwing
That and I'm looking at those Alpine iDA head units.
These are just radios and media managers. They read flash drives, iPhones, and iPods. I'm trying to find out if the flash drive can be replaced with a 500GB USB powered external hard drive. Couple that with the PAC cable so the steering wheel controls still work, and the only other question will be if it will plug into the OE Bose amp, or if new amps, speakers and rewiring is needed. I'm looking at all these projects to take my mind off the fact that you AMG guys are so much faster than us mere mortals.
Impressive!! Keep up the good work!
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,734
Likes: 65
From: Hotlanta
AMG
Regarding the E-coupe....MB can now charge premium pricing for the coupe, AND stuff in the 6.3 motor....
It probably will not cannibalize the CL, since there is the V12TT option in that line.
RIP the CLK!
It probably will not cannibalize the CL, since there is the V12TT option in that line.
RIP the CLK!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,784
Likes: 84
From: SCV SoCal
2002 CLK430
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 50
From: Yokohama, Japan
2000 CLK 320
I took my CD and fed it to my laptop. It decided it didn't care for my new Lenovo ThinkPad. So I fed it to a Dell. This is what it told me. Sounds like I need $125 in software, and $50K or so in hardware. Tomorrow night, I'll give my older software a shot.
Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 216
Likes: 2
From: San Diego, CA
02 CLK 430 Coupe
I just replaced my tie rod assembly and steering damper per the info in this thread. The difference is amazing, I highly recommend it. $204 for the parts from autohausaz and $150 for installation and alignment at the local independent shop.
Part numbers:
2024600505 - Tie rod assembly
1244630432 - Steering damper
Part numbers:
2024600505 - Tie rod assembly
1244630432 - Steering damper
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
1998 Clk 320
Replacing the whole assembly (including the steering damper) makes a HUGE difference. It literally feels like a rack & pinion setup after replacing all the worn items. Most W208s probably have completely worn parts without their owners even knowing it and then they complain about lack of steering feedback & etc without realizing it is not a design flaw but failing old parts. If you get that weird rolling over sensation when turning the steering wheel (just flops over all of a sudden past 3/4 turn) then you most likely have a worn setup) . Honestly the install is not THAT hard assuming you have a lift, its basically just 4-5 bolts, you do have to take off front wheels to do it but other then that... its relatively straight forward. The steering wheel feel MUCH more precise afterwards and it will make the car drive like new again. Avg total cost including parts & labor for everything (all the links & damper) is about $450ish. hope that helps
Hey sorry to wake up this old post but I need help wth my 98 320clk. I bought it @ 114k lowered on 19's. Still lowered on different 19's @ a little over 170k, thing is still alive n kick pretty damn good for the mileage. For various issues Im encountering like 50-65mph steering shake, steering not feeling right n tight at all, and a random and somewhat dangerous steering stiffing and almost getting stuck at higher speed tight turns (I have to muscle the wheel over and brake to complete the turn till steering engages again, 3/4 turn flop u mentioned?).
So I've been researching all over looking for parts and instruction on what parts I need to revamp this suspension.
Instructions per part I can find, but what parts are good to change, especially @170k, to make the ride and steering brand new?
Here's what I got so far:
Inner and outer tie rods
Wheel bearings
Ball joints
Sway bar bushings
Steering center link
Control arm bushings
Front strut shocks
Anything else you guys can input to make this thing smooth?
Thanks tons
