blackbenzz

Would you be willing to duplicate the intake? It looks so sick I have a single pipe thats 3.5" that goes to the passenger side and I relocated my MAF into that pipe. Guess I would have to put it back to stock location to use a setup like yours but keep the 3.5" pipe it sits in so I wont have to readjust the MAF and get the car retuned I used to have the stock w211 E55 airboxes then connected directly to the headlights that I drilled out but felt the boxes were a restrcition after I went to the bigger TB. It would be awesome if I could do a setup like yours and still attach it to the headlight openigs for a cold ram air type effect. I would need to find inline filters though
Haha thanks. He would probably kick my ***
I have custom grind schrick cams from PTE. They dont release specs though and I didn't get mine spec'd

2PRECISE

Thas weird how no one has specs??? how much u paid for the cams? And do u have any issues running them blackbenzz?? Im just gonna make my own, Im seeing prices in the thousands from VRP .... LOL.... I know there is 2 , but it cost us 3 - 4 hundred to custom grind one new one for the race cars... NUTZ!!!! If i didnt want to be so unique, I would have sold it long time ago...lol

As far as the intake goes.... im gonna change it the year ... might... I would like to get rid of the filters and plumb it right to the stock ram air ducts in the front grille, just have to figure out filters. I have the stock 90 degree plastic adapter and the MAF attached to it just like stock. I made a plastic ring the goes over the MAF and the intake slips nicely over it. Its 3" pipe and I flared it to fit on top of MAF.

blackbenzz

Yea it sucks. I thought they would just give me specs but after I installed them VRP said they wouldn't give specs. Everything mercedes is overpriced. I think they were about $3k but may be a bit cheaper now. Have had no issues at all with the cams. The idle gets a little lumpy though lol. I did have to retune it to see power gains. You can kinda see the old intake I had in this vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-QJFAuJcMs For some reason the cams lope alot more now, must have been due to something I changed afterwards

Cool. So you're not making the intakes to sell?

2PRECISE

3k?????????? WTF OMG!!! Im gonna look into doing my own.... so stupid, obvious gouging cause of the benz name!!

Im gonna make a new intake, ill sell u mine when i do, but as far as producing them , i dont know, we will see....

suicidal4life

There is a new thread on the W211 AMG page titled "Head work" The poster is porting the heads and installing VRP cams. I casually asked him about measuring the specs. Would be nice if he did. I posted the specs for 55NA 55K and SLR about a year ago. I'm assuming the VRP is much more agressive.

Ghostrider

They are just stock the cams from a C55, picked them up from Cory at Kleemann for $500.

Silv430ClkR

I think i have it all figured out. I actually just started working on it last night when i got home from work. worked till 3 in the morning. im about 60% done with it. i just have to extend the wires and hook up the MAF clamp, mount and hook up the fmu, and mount the coolant tank in. it is a pretty straight forward system i believe. as for the breather lines, egr line, and tank vent line i ended up picking up a hose cross connecting them all together. drilled a hole on the top of the cross for a barb for the tank vent line. and used 3/4 in hose to connect that to the throttle body port. its clean and i think the supercharger should be a good source of vacuum(maybe too much, we'll see). and the fmu is going to be connected to a barb on the supercharger outlet duct pipe(the one going directly into the manifold). everything else worked out good so far. drilled the valve cover holes and slightly into the head(maybe 2 threads) to seat the rods in properly. mounted the mount, and supercharger in place with throttle body. Im just getting a pulley mounting adapter machined for me because it wasnt included for the alternator pulley in the kit. other than that so far everything else is included, but the coolant tank sensor plug, but im going to see if a can use the oem tank(there isnt much room tho, any suggestions?) if anyone has any other way of running everything i am also open to suggestions. Thanks

NitrogenBalance

Nice! I think a PCV valve in line could be used to limit the CFM/vacuum pull from the supercharger if it is to much.

The kit is pretty simple once you've done it. I give you alot of credit for figuring it out with the available resources and instruction.

The coolant sensor never worked for me using the audi coolant tank. I wired up the sensor and tucked it away somewhere behind the fire wall and the light was gone. Use the OEM tank to if you want it to work.

Silv430ClkR

I didnt have much time over the weekend to work on it but i did get around to doing the wiring, map sensor and bypass vacuum hook ups, and trimmed the supplied coolant expansion tank and mount for a better fit(it was ontop of the brake lines in one corner and on top of the oil cap on the motor in the other corner)im going to see what i can do about the sensor. the one in the mercedes tank comes out so im going to see if i can get it working in the audi tank. if not i might just buy the expansion tank from an ML. they mount on the firewall above the motor,we'll see. tomorrow im picking up my pulley mounting adapter for the alternator pulley i had machined and should be getting a new fuel filter and motor and tranny mounts in the mail. so id say about 75-80% done.

Ghostrider

You go boy!!!

Silv430ClkR

The kit definatley is pretty simple once youve figured out all the wiring and plumbing. id say so far ive spent more time trying to hide everything and making everything look as factory as possible than actually building the kit. you cant giv me all the credit. alot of you guys helped me out in figuring it out and obtaining instructions. with that said i installed the fmu and new fuel filter tonite. im still waiting on the pulley adapter and probly going to be installing my new motor and tranny mounts tommorow. also i wanted to double check how people wired in the power line to the maf clamp into the wiring harness. i hav it connected to the fuse they say to hook it up to in the instructions but im not so crazy about the ideaand i only hav the one wire leading to it, in the pic there are two wires connected to it. did anyone with the same kit hook it up differently?

NitrogenBalance

I used a fuse tap or piggyback fuse thing from autozone for $3.

What pulley adapter are you talking about? The spacer for the idler pulley? If so I found a website that has aluminum spacers, shoulder adapters, and other pulley/serpentine parts. On the topic I used a 90mm idler pulley instead which gave me a little more belt wrap at the blower and didn't add much tension to the belt.

Do you have an aluminum pulley by any chance? Billet flow 90mm, not sure if I included it or kept it......

Silv430ClkR

yea i also used a fuse tap. but the pic has 2 wires leading to it i only hav the 1 red wire going to the 15 amp fuse from the voltage clamp box , is that the correct fuse and way?

the adapter is for the alternator pulley, u must not hav used cause u had the vacuum pump pulley in place of it. i just had to get the mouning adapter(spacer) made up, no biggie. just waiting on the parts still. and i hav both pulleys, the billet flow, and the black 90mm

2PRECISE

the pic has 2 red wires because one red wire is for the MAF and the other is for the boost switch. They share the same power source. I wired my IC pump to go on and stay on when key is in the on position.They have th IC pump wired to a boost switch.

Silv430ClkR

ok, thanks, so i have it right, just as they do in the pic minus the wire for the boost switch. that must be a pic from the 2nd gen instructions then since the 1st gen doesnt hav an intercooler or boost switch.

2PRECISE

Oh u have a first gen..... correct I have a 2nd gen and it comes with a boost switch wich turns on the IC pump. I wired my to a ignitioned 12v so it runs constantly. First gen does not have a water to air intercooler, so u dont have to worry about that. You said u installed a fuel controller? which one?

Silv430ClkR

the vortech fmu the kit comes with. the regular non adjustable one, but you can purchase differnt diaphrams for it if you need adjusting. they come in 4:1 thru 12:1 ratios i believe.

Silv430ClkR

oh and btw i switched the way im running the breather lines tonite. i ended up running the 5/8in hose to the tb with the tank vent line T'd into that, and got breather filters for the valve covers. i was talking to my uncle whos a mechanic and he said the way i was going to run it was good but if i was going to b on the throttle for an extencive period of time all im going to be doing is throwing that blowby pressure back into the engine and hope to god that it would release it somewhere along the lines. he said that i would hav to hav that one 5/8in hose hooked up tho. its not n/a anymore so this pressure needs a way to escape. on a n/a motor there is no pressure really to create blowby jus vacuum or no vacuum.

Silv430ClkR

finished basically everything and hit a bump. went to put the supplied belt on and its too long. nitrogen i believe you were running a vacuum pump and had 1 extra pulley on your system, is that why the belt came up too long or am i doing somthing wrong? i must hav looked at it for half an hour trying to see what i missed and couldnt come up with anything.

Silv430ClkR

ive finally finished the install, the belt situation was my fault(it was getting late and was losing it) i started it up and it idled perfectly. i let it idle while i was checking everything(leaks,connections,pulleys,belt,bypass valve,etc.) everything looked fine so i decided to take it out on the road(with no front bumper, to excited to put it on). seemed to run like normal until youd hit boost. two things would happen,first it bogging or hestitating alot then your glued to your seat till it shifted. and would bog again when it up shifted. it would also hit these hiccup spots at certain rpms. under boost and not under boost. one other thing was alot of squeeking when coming to a stop or coming off of boost. does anyone hav any clue as to whats going on. i followed the instrucstions as stated but a few things i did change.
1. i put breather filters on the valve covers(the two 3/8in nipples)

2. T'd the egr together with the tank vapor line and ran that to the throttle body(5/8in hose)

3. instead of that pressure compinsator device hps had in there kit i put a one way check valve in between the manifold and the map sensor(only vaccum or no vaccum pulled from the map)

4.installed a barb in the supercharger outlet duct, and ran a line from that to the fmu

any bit of help is greatly appreciated. before the install i figured i would need to get a tune, but the instructions state otherwise, also i know nitrogen just had the blower rebuilt and polished, but my fox body gt with a vortech never made all that squeeking(is it normal for a roots?) Please any bit of info is helpful. THANK YOU!

NitrogenBalance

Hey, I sent you a PM about some possible fixes. I think the PCV system is pulling unmetered air possibly? like a vacuum leak using the mini filters and the TB vacuum maybe?

The blower shouldn't be squeaking, thats strange, I wonder if it is a belt/pulley issue. It was just rebuilt to the sound of my $500+ I believe It should sound like faint mechanical spinning at idle, but smooth and freely. It should screem like a howler monkey under boost. The ran the blower post port/polish and it was fine at the time. Ran it on the bench too.

The belt thing is tricky, I think we have all be there staring at the diagram.

Fingers crossed bud.

silence

sounds mostly like a bad maf?

my car wouldn't run worth a crap even with a good maf until I "scaled" the signal coming out of it either, some of the same symptoms.

that has nothing to do with squeaking though.

what gauges do you have? it's much easier to troubleshoot with other information as well.

Silv430ClkR

Thanks guys, im gunna try a few things and see if they work. last night i didnt drive it too far but i had it running and idleing for abour and hour. maybe drove it 5 miles,so im wondering if the computer hasnt adapted yet? im going to spray some stop squeak on the belt and see if that fixs that problem. if it does then that is basically isolated to the belt or pulleys, im gunna clean the maf and then take it for an easy run(the instructions state atleast 30 miles). if the hiccups arent fixed by then, im gunna do something with the pcv system like nitrogen said. and after that i guess a new maf if that dont work. i currently dont have any gauges. i know i should get some but as for now all i know is there are no leaks on any lines, fuel and vaccum. i just dont know what a/f im running. las nite it idled like stock and ran fine till it hit those spots in the rpm range, bogged when i stabbed the peddle, bogged when it shifted, and hit these spots when it would bog for a sec. under normal driving, then hit this rough patch in the higher rpms like wa,wa,wawawa. idk i guess now the real fun begins

dlbehrns

My hat is definitely off to you guys and your sc wars. I was looking for an interpretor to help me understand your posts.

Silv430ClkR

Its not too bad once you get the gist of things, it def is a learning experience whether you hav a background in them or not.

as for my car!!! well i went to take the maf off to clean and oil was dripping from the TB port into the maf which i conclude that like nitrogen said the charger was creating too much vacuum and actually started sucking oil. so now ive got to get some sort of valve to regulate vacuum to put in line on the pcv 5/8in hose to the TB port(i also hav the tank vent T'd into this) this most likely is the reasoning behind the hesitation(fingers crossed) the the squeeking i believe is from the alternator idler pulley. it seems to be the bearing maybe(it wabbles) any input?