GiZzO

1- After wiring the hardness to the PAC, I am left with the orange and yellow wires from the hardess and the blue and black from the PAC.

Don't use em.. all we need is speaker feeds in and out or if your using RCA, RCA in and speakers out thats all we need PAC to handle.....Just wrap up the rest!

2- I also have the other hardness from the head unit (AVIC-Z120BT) with all the wires and do not know where to connect them. This hardness has yellow constant, red for ignition, orange/white for lighting switch terminal, black for ground. Not to mention the wires for the NAV which I know I need to connect to the reverse, parking break but the one I do not know where to connect is the pink wire called car speed input signal. This is supposed to be a power wire.

Skip the pink speed signal wire
Skip the Orange/white wire for lighting adjustment
Skip the parking brake wire just bypass it...search youtube for bypass

Can you help? I practically need to know where to connect the second hardness that includes the wires for the NAV.
3- The input from the PAC came with RCA and wires but I used the RCA because the other hardness from the head unit came with RCA. Now where do I connect the sub-woofer RCA?

Don't use the RCA leads as inputs for PAC input; use speaker leads into PAC then speaker leads out from PAC to amp.
Save the RCA from your headunit for your sub system.

Bt1965

I got the hardness you recommended. This is already wired the way you suggested. The doubt I have is with the hardness from the head unit. Do I connect this hardness to the hardness adaptor? The PAC input only allows for speakers connections. Thus, I am left with the head unit hardness not connected. Keep in mind that the wires from the PAC output are connected to the VW hardness adaptor already.

Bt1965

GiZzO
Just to be clear, I wired the output PAC wires to the VW hardness. The head unit has two hardness, one that had RCA's female plugs for speakers, audio and video including the rear camera. The other hardness has bare wires. This is my doubt. The wires are the same wires connected from the PAC output to the VW hardness adaptor that connects to the amp or MB hardness. Thus, do I connect the head unit wires directly to the VW hardness or to the amp? One thing is sure, I cannot connect them to the PAC input as indicated in your diagram as the PAC only has the speakers wires.

Bt1965

I got it and wired the PAC. Now, you said the skip the rest of the wires from the head unit harness (yellow and red). How will the head unit be powered? Would this be through the SWI-CAN2?

GiZzO

You do not need to power the PAC. Feed those directly to your headunit +, -, ACC and remote

Bt1965

I did. I wired the 12v and constant to the harness adaptor. I also followed the instructions related to switching the yellow and red wire. However, I got no power to the head unit. I noticed that the wires in the harness adaptor are not aligned with the port plug from the car. The CANbus has power wires as well. I red some posts where some wired the power to the cigarrette lighter. However, how the factory unit got the power? There must be a way to get the power from the port plugs. Do you know what each wire is for for each port plug?

Bt1965

This is how the wires are mapped between the harness adapter and the car connectors:
Harness > Car
Pink > blue/white
White/red > yellow/black
Gray/black > brown
Violet/black > brown/white
Violet > white
Gray > orange (looks orange)
Red > red/black
Orange/white > nothing
Black > brown
Yellow > nothing
White/black > green/brown
Green/black > pink/brown
Green > pink
White > green

The CAN has the following wires:
Pin 1 white/black
Pin 2 black
Pin 3 nothing
Pin 4 green/black
Pin 5 red
Pin 6 brown
Pin 7 nothing
Pin 8 nothing
Pin 9 nothing
Pin 10 nothing

Thus, it seems that there is alignment when it comes to the speakers but not for the other wires. Regarding the CANbus, do you know what the red, brown, and green/black are for? The white/black seems to be the CAN + and the black the CAN - as per the plug and the instructions that came with the CAN2.

jbenz99

Gundo I am going to try the pac-oem2 project, I got one on ebay for $10 and free shipping brand new in box ! I just wanted to see if it true about the upgrade in sound quailty ! For my sake I hope it true,lol !!!

GiZzO

Glad your taking the jump, only way to know for sure is to try. But really theres too many praises about it for us to be wrong The sound engineer that tweaked my EQ was alot more satified with his work, instead of ugly faces and "thats the best i could do", he had big thumb up on the changes.

to OP:
I would back up and start off simple here. Ignore the steering wheel controls, even ignore the PAC. Just wire up the HU with the VW harness, get your ACC, battery, ground, remote, sorted so speakers play... power HU cold (car off long period then turn on) verify it keeps presets.
Once you got that build from that, wire up the PAC knowing you got it working and have a better mental sense of how you go it working. Once you got that do the steering wheel controls. I have yet to do this and i don't think i plan too im happy turning a knob so can't help you there
My point is getting it working first and build from that... cause doing it all at once is bound for failure.
So start with this post on wiring (The Gundo install):
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ic-z110bt.html

Bt1965

I got the head unit powered on but got no sound. I checked the wires to the pac and they all are correctly wire to the input and output. Any clue about what I might have missed?

Bt1965

Never mind! I had to wire the pink from the vw harness to the blue remote in the head unit. It is working perfectly now. The pink wire is aligned with the blue/white from the car port connector.

Bt1965

I got the nav, stereo working perfectly. Just one observation, the pink wire from the VW harness connects to the white/blue on the Pioneer harness. Remember to move the mute one pin to the left and grounded to get access to the menu while driving. The PAC-OEM is a must if you want good sound.

madshifter

Marcus F,

I'm doing your install instructions this week with an alpine IVA-D511R single din with an lcd. Bought all the stuff from crutchfield as directed and having it shipped over here to the philippines. I dont however have those metal connectors from radio shack, can i just get those anywhere?

And is there anything else I need to know about the install? My ride is a 2000 clk 320

By the way, i'm having this dne professionally using your diagram. Just to be safe. But i'd appreciate added info for trouble free installation.

MarcusF

Any electrical outlet store will do.

madshifter

Hi MarcusF,

I have a 2000 clk 320 w208 with the stock bose system.

Need some help. I had my installer follow your diagram and instructions. It sounds great now but no wheel controls. In fact I almost crashed it on the way home from the shop! Too excited.

Anway, They cant seem to program it properly. The SwiJack and Swican2 have power (red light on at plug in) but they've tried all the setting and the swi's just won't blink when the steering wheel buttons are pressed. couple of questions...

1. Do you remember your settings for the swijack and swican 2?
2. Does the alpine unit have to be connected to the swi's while programming them?
3. Does the OBD of the clk have to be on Audio?
4. Do i just not connect the other 3 wires on the Benz steering wheel can bus harness? (the installer was D*** enough to cut only the wires needed to connect to the swican2 located at benz canbus 1 &2 )

I just went home as it was 6pm before we gave up. HU sounds great with the pac OEM2 but no wheel and OBC display. HELP!

Cheers,

madshifter

MarcusF

1) I set the rotary dial on my JACK to 1 (Alpine). I don’t remember the version number. The CAN2 was set to 4.

2) Mine was.

3) Not for a W208. My understanding is yes for a W209.

4) I used the factory plug. I avoid cutting the factory wiring harness whenever possible. I know cutting the factory harness saves trips to the electronic supply store, but I won’t do it unless I have to. The OE plug has 10 ports. I only plugged connectors in to two of them.


A review of the JACK programming docs -

Set the rotary switch to match the radio manufacturer.

Press and hold programming mode button on SWI-JACK. Turn the ignition on but don't start the car. The LED on the SWI-JACK should light.

Release the programming mode button. The LED will turn off. This confirms the memory has been erased.

Press and release the programming mode button the same number of times as the version number. The LED will flash each time the button is pressed and released. After 3 seconds, the LED will flash the same number of times as the version number.

At this point, I think the JACK is set to work with the car.

Now the JACK has to be programmed to talk to the head unit.

Turn the ignition on. The LED will flash the same number of times as the version number.

Press and hold the programming mode button until the LED turns on, then release it.

Press and hold the UP button on the steering wheel. The LED should turn off. When it does, release the button. The LED should turn back on. Do the same thing with the down button. Then do the “preset radio station” up button, the radio station down button, track up, and track down.

It sees like a lot of button pressing, but it's really not that much. Just follow the docs that came with the PAC and you're done in a few minutes.

I hope that helps.

madshifter

Just to update:

I finally got everything to work. Apparently the 'professional' installer hooked up the red output wire of the SWI harness to a power supply which shorted both the swican2 ans the swijack. I figured it our after taking the install apart myself and hooked up a new swican2 and a swi-ps lying around and the lights blinked as they should. I ended up having to replace both and now they work fine. Took me a while to reply as i think there is something wrong with this website. So hard to get in. Anyway thanks for the help!

navi243

What sub and amp are you running with the stock bose system, and can we see some pictures of the install?

mint

Most people retain the stock Bose amp.

Also, seems like most people are turning to the Metra Axxess module instead of the PAC-SWI to using the steering wheel controls. Supposedly, the Metra unit is much more reliable and entirely plug and play, no programming required. Just an option for those thinking about doing an aftermarket head unit install.

achoren

Resurrecting an old thread here, I know. But....

I did the stereo swap out almost 2 years ago and have the dreaded lights dimming issue. My alternator is new, battery new, etc. I do have a sub connected, but even when that and the spare amp are disconnected, the lights still dim when the music is up loud. My only thought is if there are multiple terminal grounding points on the car and one (or more) are corroded. The car was purchased from a guy who let it sit for many long periods of time, whereas, many parts which age when not in use/just receive sun exposure, seem to have some so prematurely.
(and FYI, when I bought it with the stock unit in, the lights had an issue even then)

por2gezo

Great info thanks