CLK-Class (W208) 1998-2002: CLK 200, CLK 230K, CLK 320, CLK 430 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

ABS/ASR/BAS mystery problem

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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 08:36 PM
  #1  
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320 CLK
ABS/ASR/BAS mystery problem

I've had a recurring problem with my 1998 320 CLK coupe that is starting to properly annoy me and has mystified my mechanic.

Basically my ABS/ASR/BAS warning light comes on randomly (usually when there is someone in the passenger seat but sometimes when I'm driving alone). This normally happens when starting but sometimes happens mid journey.

Here's some interesting things I've noticed:

1. I turn off the ignition and restart. The ABS/ASR/BAS lights still come back on but after a hundred metres or so the left hand ABS and ASR lights turn off leaving the BAS warning light still on.

2. I turn off the ignition again and when I press the accelerator the engine then surges forward, the revs shoot up as if the gear box is kicking down and the faults clear.

3. When the ABS/ASR/BAS lights are on, the car seems to lose 1st gear and the engine is somewhat sluggish in accelerating. On occasion, I have put the car into neutral when at the lights and when I put into drive, the engine revs but I am still in neutral and the car does not move.
My garage has put it on the diagnostics and it comes up as being my rear nearside RPM sensor is faulty. This has been replaced twice with a new MB part and has failed to solve the problem. The codes get cleared and all is fine for a couple of day then the problem returns.

The wiring has been checked and so has the hub. All is fine but the problem persists.

As a last resort my mechanic replaced the ABS pump unit. Still no joy.

I am now officially stumped and my mechanic is on the verge of throwing in the towel. This has been a very expensive and frustrating exercise for me and I don't know where to go from here.

Anyone have any advice as what the possible problem could be?
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 02:17 PM
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2013 FIAT Abarth 500
Try the brake light switch...inexpensive part and worth a try. Tends to cause all the warning lights you mention to come on when dying.
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 02:27 PM
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320 CLK
Originally Posted by twinsin
Try the brake light switch...inexpensive part and worth a try. Tends to cause all the warning lights you mention to come on when dying.
Been there done that I'm afraid!
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 03:25 AM
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2013 FIAT Abarth 500
Sure the part was OEM? Aftermarket isn't compatible in this case.
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by twinsin
Sure the part was OEM? Aftermarket isn't compatible in this case.
I concur.... DONT buy a copy get it from the dealer they are near enough the same price. I got a non genuine brake switch and it worked for a short time then the ABS lights came back on again.
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 05:27 AM
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320 CLK
It was a genuine Merc part.
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 10:13 AM
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For $15, I'd replace it again.
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 06:32 AM
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CLK 320 Cab
I´ve had this problem on mine since i bought it.

The brake light switch is changed whith no improvement.

When reading error codes it says a pressure switch in the ABS-unit is wrong.
It was not correctly installed and they did that, no improvement.

I have had some imbalance and changed tires and the balance improved a lot.
The same day i also tried to reset the stearingwheel signals by turning the steeringwheel as far as it goes to the left and then the same to the right, i did that a couple of times. Problem is gone.

I can´t say if it was the imbalance or the steeringwheel reset, i´ll get back if the problem is coming back.

//Ulf
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Old Jun 9, 2013 | 02:13 PM
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CLK 1999 230K
Hi
I have a CLK W208 230 Kompressor 1999
the kompressor clutch will not engage
after taking it to the mechanics he informed me that the clutch need to be changed and no parts available so we should change the whole kompressor
BAS/ASR light is on
a defective fuse on the k40 relay (Fuse number 3 15A)
when changing it the light goes off
but when the RPM reaches 2000 the fuse will fries and the light comes on again
plz advise if someone already had this problem?
and how to solve it should i change the kompressor or the K40 relay ?
i removed the relay and the soldering are not torn
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