2000 clk 430 cab.

I have had my share of issues in the past. I have had everything fine for a couple of months. Then one day I got all the above errors (ABS/BAS/ESP)

It use to only come on intermittently. Now EVERYTIME I start the vehicle. I step on the brake to take the car out of P and I get all the above errors.

Here's the facts:

1) As soon as I step on the brake to move the vehicle out of P I get all three errors.

2) I replaced the brake light switch back in Jan with a Chinese part. I have NOW replaced the brake light switch with a MB OEM brake light switch part.

3) when I turn my headlights on my tail lights turn on. My reverse lights work. My rear fog and turn signals all work.

4) I have no issue shifting the vehicle out of P. in other words the shifter is NOT locked in P.

5) I have NO brake lights. Lights do not get brighter when I step on the brake.

6) 3rd brake light never lighs up.

Anyone have ANY decent advice? Could MB dealership STAR Diag give me any insight?

One question I can not find the answer to. The relays in the SAM unit. Can any one in the know tell me what each one if for? Particularly the one in the "B" position. OEM it is a Siemens relay. Looks like the part number is " 002 542 03 19"

The reason I ask is because when I remove it and shake it. It rattles.

To top it all off. I am recently unemployed and my inspection is due at the end of this month :/

........will I ever be able to just enjoy my car again

 

260 views in less then 24 hours and not a single response

... That scares me.

TODAY I:

Had the battery tested. Battery is perfect.

Bought ANOTHER brake lamp switch. This one direct from the dealer.

Had an Indy guy read the diag code. He was unable to read the BAS for whatever reason, but he was able to read the error "brake lamp switch"


... I didn't sleep last night. Spent the WHOLE NIGHT reading up on this issue and it is either a million people saying brake lamp switch or a thread that just ends with no resolution.

Can anyone provide any details on the wiring from the two plugs off the brake lamp switch?

Do they trace directly to the trunk? Etc. any info. Anything at all.

Has to be a short wire somewhere.

 

Well. Problem is still not resolved. I have narrowed the issue down to some wire under the steering wheel. (I think)

I had a steady ESP/BAS/ABS error before and no brake lights. Replaced the brake switch switch.

Began to trace the wires coming off the brake light switch.

They essentially all come together and head under the center of the vehicle.

All I really did was "jiggle and pull" the wires and I was able to get rid of all the errors. When all I my lights work I get a bulb out of the passenger side brake light. I have not seen if its just a bulb. Or some other issue all together.

So now. It's 50/50 everytime I start up if I'm gonna get all the errors. Or just the bulb out error.

If I do get the bulb out error and start driving I still get all the other errors for no good reason.

Anyone know or have a wiring diagram for this area?

Where to the wires coming off the brake lamp switch go? Directly to the fuse
Box? Maybe there is a loose wire on the underside of the fuse box??

Anyone. Anyone?

 

Maybe you have the same problem that I have.

I have a bad fuse holder. The Brake Lamp fuse in fuse #2 in the interior fuse block at the left end of the dash. The holder does not provide a good bite on the fuse. I will get the typical brake switch multiple error prompts, and at the next red light, I turn off the engine, open the door, pull off the fuse panel cover, and quickly pull out and reinstall the #2 fuse. When I restart the engine, the codes are gone. It is annoying.

As a remedy, I would like to patch in a single in-line fuse holder, but I need to be able to identify the two wires that come from the #2 fuse holder.

I would like to know what are the color codes for the 2 wires that come from the #2 fuse holder. I think I'm going to post this as an independent topic.

 

...Something worth checking. THANK YOU! for responding Pancho I'll check it out!

 

How about a follow up on your problem ?

Thanks

 

Only now do I have any news. I almost sold the car like 3x, but just couldn't. It would have broken my heart.

Life has its up and downs, and I have been down (and out) for the last 6 months.

MY CLK has sat. and sat. and sat.

I finally got some gainful employment (lost my long time g/f along the way) and also found a reputable indy shop (finally)

I needed a new battery....hell, here is the list:

1) New Battery
2) Oil Change
3) State Inspection/Emissions

4)....dum dum dum.....

The indy shop "reseated" all the connections to the "Lighting Control Module"

I have not picked the car up yet, but apparently it is functioning properly again.

The Indy Mech said that if it by chance starts to happen again...then we should look at replacing the "Lighting Control Module"

Total: $661.04

Hell if I knew that was "all" it would have cost - instead of the $2000+ I spent at the dealership a year ago - I actually would have gotten it looked at sooner.

I hope this serves as a cautionary tail to everyone.

Now I need a new front bumper/fog lights and side skirts!!!!

I do not want to replace the factory AMG look. Can someone point me towards something decent?

I got a down payment at a body shop and he is lined up and waiting for me!


Damn it feels GOOD to be back!

PS any of you guys with dealership connects (Or WIS) can show me where this ever elusive "Lighting Control Box" is?

...I'd like to see it.

 

I am kinda partial to this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Ben...99b21d&vxp=mtr

any technical objections?

 

This is the same one? Only cheaper?

http://www.myhotmercedes.com/Mercede...108054/872362#

Need a bit of advice from you guys.... thanks!

 

Look good i would delete the side fins, also the passenger side fitment on the pics is not as clean as the driver side

 

It appears that yours and my problem might arise from the same bad part--the head lamp switch.

I don't know the actual nomenclature for the part that I replaced with a used one I found on ebay, but it is part #2105451604, and I identify it as the headlamp switch and fuse block.

I replaced it myself in about an hour. Now that I know how to do it, would take about 20 minutes, and it is a small bit tricky, but it is not dirty work.

This repair/replacement totally, and I mean totally, solved my intermittent ESP/BAS/Etc. problem.

Here are my notes from the job, total cost, $63.85:

August 6, 2012:
Bought used headlamp switch on ebay, P/N: 2105451604 MBenz Headlight Switch Fuse Box $53.00 + $10.85 shipping. Removed headlight switch to get to the fuse panel that has the brake light switch fuse. This fuse panel/block is an integrated part on the headlight switch. The part number on is on the fuse panel and is 2105451604.

Anyway, How to remove headlight switch/fuse panel on a year 2000 CLK430 Cabriolet:
1. Remove the foot well panel under the steering wheel.
2. Remove a screw from under the hood release lever, and work the lever through the foot well panel, such that it no longer stops the panel from being completely removed.
3. The DB2 interface jack is also affixed to this foot well panel. Reach behind the panel to the DB2 connector, an you will find that if you squeeze the rectangular collar, and slid the collar about 3/4 of an inch, that this will allow you to unplug the connector, and you will now be able to fully remove the foot well panel.
4. Disconnect the four connectors from the light switch. In order, beginning with the connector closest to passenger side:
Big Gray connector
Big Black Connector
Small Purple Connector (Connects Display/Speedo/Etc.)
Small Black Connector
5. Disconnect Parking brake cable. First pull the nylon stop on the cable from a locking slot, then pull the ball end of the cable from the sliding portion of the parking brake pulling handle. Now you can remove the parking brake handle below the light switch.
6. After you remove the parking brake handle, you will see two screws in the cavity where the handle was. Remove those two screws. When you remove these screws, the parking brake glide will release and fall out from behind the dash. This glide has the retainer nuts for the screws you just removed.
7. Look closely toward the top of the parking brake handle cavity, and you will see a third screw at the top of the cavity, actually a bolt with a screw head. Remove this bolt.
8. Now take a small allen wrench, or any small “L” shaped prove, and work it around the edges of the housing surrounding the headlight switch. Towards the top of the surround are a couple of pressure releases which you can work loose with this “L” tool. Remove the surround.
9. After removing the surround, you will find a small screw at about 11 O’clock of the headlight switch. Remove this screw.
10. Remove the fuse panel cover on the Driver’s end of the dash, and remove the bright cadmium bolt below the fuse panel.
11. You should now be able to nurse the headlight switch/fuse panel out from behind the dash.

 

YES!

Picked up the car this morning. Only drove it to work; everything is so far so good.


You are correct with your picture. That is the part that the mech reseated all the connections on.

So glad to be back.


Im going to give it a week of driving to make sure that the error does not return (if its does that I will replace the headlamp switch)

If it does not - then I will be ordering a new bumper and side skirts.

After that my CLK will be back to 100%

Can not wait!

I missed you guys

 

nic- have same prob w/ my 02 clk. everytime i start i get errors abs/esp/bas.

putting in shop in a few days. we'll see.

 

AFTER the Brake lamp switch replacement CHECK the "Head light switch//fuze box"

If you are able to remove that item yourself - apparently all it took to fix was a reseating and cleaning of all the wires that feed into the back of that item.


GOOD LUCK! I really mean it!

 

Here's a tip: You need to read posting #11.

 

i have this proplem with my clk at the moment and it was traced to the rear outer cv joints rusted and not making contact with the back of the wheel and then upseting the brake sensors answer was to buy 2 drive shafts.

 

Was that at a dealership ?

Cost ?

Thanks

 

i had to source the driveshafts secondhand as the local MB specialist wanted over £500 each for them , I managed to get a pair from Dronsfields for £50 each plus p&p. Be warned that there are two types, a push in and a bolt on. Mine was the push in type which i discovered after purchasing the other type! Secondhand ones are hard to find, i tried all major breakers and no-one had any. My local garage, not MB, are charging me about £150 for the job.