CLK-Class (W208) 1998-2002: CLK 200, CLK 230K, CLK 320, CLK 430 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

CPS? Car starts but shuts right off

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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 03:58 PM
  #1  
deyainrdy4ds's Avatar
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CPS? Car starts but shuts right off

so my car was running completely fine until i wasnt using it for like 2-3 months...i went on a quick little <2 mile drive within my town and it just stalled on me...turns on and then stalls a little later and eventually wouldnt even turn over again...i pushed it to my house just one block away then it started again...

i try again a few days later and it turns over but shuts right off...and keeps doing it until i get lucky and it may stay on...i go for a little drive and it stalls at idle...

ive already tried cleaning the MAF and it made 0 difference so can this be the CPS or probably something with my messed up custom turbo? lol how can this just suddenly happen when the car was running completely fine? i just didnt use it for 2-3 months and this started suddenly occurring
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 06:27 PM
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Is it throwing any codes?

Cleaning the MAF usually does very little from the maf threads. Usually the symptoms are very rough idle and severe hesitation.

The repeated dying sounds like a cps.

but saying that...custom turbo?
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 06:35 PM
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Check the CEL, if it's the CPS, you'll have a CEL.
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 07:58 PM
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i could be wrong but that doesnt seem like CPS symptomes. a bad CPS needs time to cool off and the car will start back up again fine until the CPS gets hot beyond a certain point. and since you said you left it and went back a few days later and tried and it wouldnt turn over then in my mind that would eliminate CPS but again there might be other symptomes of CPS that i dont know about. Try running the car with the MAF disconnected and see how if it shuts off, the car should still run with the MAF disconnected but very rough and bad idle but if it doesnt shut off then its your MAF.
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by VIPclk320
the car should still run with the MAF disconnected but very rough and bad idle
i thought that when you disconnect the MAF, the ECU runs on default values so if you're having an issue with the MAF, disconnect it and the rough idle clears up then that's how you know it's an MAF?

that's what i thought anyways...
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 01:57 PM
  #6  
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thanks for the suggestions guys..im open to any other feedback etc..

Originally Posted by cindyclk
Is it throwing any codes?

Cleaning the MAF usually does very little from the maf threads. Usually the symptoms are very rough idle and severe hesitation.

The repeated dying sounds like a cps.

but saying that...custom turbo?
im gunna run codes soon..i guess ill give it a try even though im probably gunna get numerous codes lol ....and ya MAF made 0 difference...as for the turbo, it was fully custom and rear mounted by a forum member about 2-3 yrs ago

Originally Posted by theunderlord
Check the CEL, if it's the CPS, you'll have a CEL.
i have a CEL b/c no cats but ill see what codes come up

Originally Posted by VIPclk320
i could be wrong but that doesnt seem like CPS symptomes. a bad CPS needs time to cool off and the car will start back up again fine until the CPS gets hot beyond a certain point. and since you said you left it and went back a few days later and tried and it wouldnt turn over then in my mind that would eliminate CPS but again there might be other symptomes of CPS that i dont know about. Try running the car with the MAF disconnected and see how if it shuts off, the car should still run with the MAF disconnected but very rough and bad idle but if it doesnt shut off then its your MAF.
Originally Posted by twinsin
i thought that when you disconnect the MAF, the ECU runs on default values so if you're having an issue with the MAF, disconnect it and the rough idle clears up then that's how you know it's an MAF?

that's what i thought anyways...
i cleaned the MAF and it didnt make any difference but i guess i can give it a try disconnecting the MAF to see if it does anything
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 02:05 PM
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Ya, post back any codes that you find, should point in the right direction.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by deyainrdy4ds
so my car was running completely fine until i wasnt using it for like 2-3 months...i went on a quick little <2 mile drive within my town and it just stalled on me...turns on and then stalls a little later and eventually wouldnt even turn over again...i pushed it to my house just one block away then it started again...

i try again a few days later and it turns over but shuts right off...and keeps doing it until i get lucky and it may stay on...i go for a little drive and it stalls at idle...

ive already tried cleaning the MAF and it made 0 difference so can this be the CPS or probably something with my messed up custom turbo? lol how can this just suddenly happen when the car was running completely fine? i just didnt use it for 2-3 months and this started suddenly occurring

I am currently dealing with a similar problem, what happen in my case is my car start normally, i reached the first red light, then it died...Started back up again and it did start. Second time i drove my car, same thing except it took 2 min to started back up again, and the engine light came one...The Third time, same thing except it never started again...that was 3 weeks ago...I've been troubleshooting it since and now i am really desperate and don't know what else i can do other than scrap the car...

When we tried to read that error, it said clearly crankshaft position sensor, so first thing i did was to buy a new part and replace it. (My initial CPS was stuck and broke as we tried to take it out so i had to remove the tranny and break the part out ...)
However the car would still not start, the engine light did not clear out, and still said CPS...The dealer thought there was a GAP between the sensor and the Flywheel, but no such thing as a GAP the Sensor is magnetic and it holds on the flywheel as it should...The 2pin Cable that send the signal of the CPS to the ECU is fine...
Using MB star software, we tried to read the RPM by manually spin the engine but 0 RPM came...so we thought the ECU is not getting the signal sent by the CPS, until we discovered while checking the drive authorization, it said Specified value: ''Immobilizer is activated''; Actual Value: ''Immobilizer is activated''...we tried to turn off the Immobolizer but it seems the car is not allowing us to change it...

So in other words, it seems the ECU is purposely not allowing me starting my own car...

I have no idea why this is happening and above all i have no idea how to fix it...Anyone knows why ? 2001 CLK320

What is a MAF ? and CEL?
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 09:19 AM
  #9  
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If you're not clear what a MAF is or what the CEL is, you're dealer 'thinks' there's a 'GAP' between the sensor and flywheel, (not sure why you capitalized that, the sensor doesn't touch the flywheel), I'd suggest you take the car to someone qualified to diagnose it.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by rsparso
If you're not clear what a MAF is or what the CEL is, you're dealer 'thinks' there's a 'GAP' between the sensor and flywheel, (not sure why you capitalized that, the sensor doesn't touch the flywheel), I'd suggest you take the car to someone qualified to diagnose it.

Sorry i simply meant i space between the sensor and the flywheel...they put a mirror and came up with this idea...They wanted to charge me $1200 to remove the tranny again...cuz my sensor was stuck so i said Hell no...
I manage to remove that stuck sensor myself without removing the tranny...I have tried 4 different CPS in this car...3 were after market, the last one was 1 sensor from the dealer ship, I can clearely see the flywheel when i remove the CPS and when i put it back in sometimes i put it soo deep that i feel it hitting the flywheel. I even made sure the magnet from the CPS engage with the flywheel before plugging the wiring harness back and screw the sensor but no luck starting it...I've 3 different specialist diagnostic the car including the dealer, spent close to $2000 in 3 weeks and no one can give me a Clear answer and FIX it...and the best diagnost so far was my friend only charge me 50$ to tell me the immobilizer is on...I even have a print screen from his MB Star (Same software used by the dealer)

I've spent all night searching about the Immobilizer, and apparently if the computer think the key is sending the wrong code, it activates thus not allowing the fuel to get to the engine, although the car Cranks...Worst is the ECU lets the key unlock the door, and put the ignition on, but wont crank...I found a website that seems legit and for now that's my only lead...
http://www.autokeysquad.com/lost-mer...ob-replacement
I'll let you guys know if it actually works if i do it that way...

Last edited by Mercedat; Nov 11, 2012 at 01:21 PM.
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 06:16 PM
  #11  
CLK320skr's Avatar
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bicycle
Originally Posted by Mercedat

What is a MAF ? and CEL?
mass air flow, check engine light
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 09:49 PM
  #12  
Redw20855amg's Avatar
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Blown 208 55 amg, 211 55 amg
Originally Posted by theunderlord
Check the CEL, if it's the CPS, you'll have a CEL.
FALSE:

I have seen plenty of faulty CPS (crank position sensor) without any DTC's whether they be current and stored or pending!
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