package51

I had an issue this weekend, when putting the top up the cycle was stopped before the rear of the top latched into the deck lid. I did a "soft reset" (held the red button down for 20 seconds) and the top latched. Now when i try to lower the top, the windows drop but the red button just blinks. I have checked the plastic shelf in the trunk and it is in the propper position. Any ideas?

GatorMB

Sounds like the pump relay, It is located next to the pump.

Besides the windows, headrest must be down, luggage protector closed and trunk closed. Check all fuses, front and rear boxes.

package51

Thanks. I was told that since the headrests operate that the top nedds to re-synced. Does this make sense. I dont want to start changing parts till I am sure what needs to be done.

GatorMB

I have read conflicting data about the headrest, The owners manual suggests the work off of hydraulics from the soft top pump.
There are hydraulic lines and cylinders. one other post suggested they work off of the Pneumatic system, I am going to get it right sooner or later. LOL
The blinking is from fault, double check the luggage tray closed, rear windows all the way down, headrest all the way down, most important trunk (boot) closed.
Check the fluid level in the pump reservoir.
If the top is 100% closed or open, it should not require a reset.
If it gets interrupted in the middle of operation you can reset by removing the proper fuse.

Gator

big_mike1979

Im sure u have checked it but make sure the plastic cover in the trunk is closed.
If its not, it will blink and wont go down!! It happened to me before!!

bobbyjo9

You need to specify if this is a fast blink or a slow blinking switch. It makes a difference

Serndipity

The rear headrests/roll-bar operation are hydraulic.

However, in the event of crash or significant bumps/potholes encounters, tensioned springs mechanically supply the force to raise the rollbar and the hydraulic system remains passive.

See the attachments I provided in post #4 at https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...f-problem.html for more additional information.

package51

Thanks guys for all your input. The micro switch on the deck lid (where the back of the top locks when the top is up) had bent prongs. Mechanic straightened out and resync the top, all is good now.

Top Hydraulics

package51,

thank you for the update. I assume that you mean the rear bow lock as shown below? It is the one that locks down the rear of the soft top when the top is up, as opposed to the case cover lock which locks down the storage cover behind the rear seat. Please confirm.



It is rare that the lever on the rear bow lock micro switch gets bent - has someone removed that lock before? I will add some DIY instructions on how to adjust the micro switch lever after you confirm that it was the rear bow.

Klaus

www.tophydraulicsinc.com

package51

I wasn't present when it was repaired but I assume that was it because the rear of the top was pushed down. I was only charged 150.00 to fix which is about 1 hours labor here in NY.

Top Hydraulics

package51,

if it was indeed a micro switch needing adjustment, then you were lucky to find a mechanic who knew how to do it. Most mechanics will end up buying a whole new lock assembly with cylinder. Top Hydraulics adjusts the micro switch lever free of charge with the cylinder rebuild service, by the way.

For future readers, here is how you should be able to test if the rear bow lock needs an adjustment on the lever pushing the micro switch:

With the top fully closed and locked, put the soft top tool or a 6-mm Allen wrench in the lock's Allen head. Turn the wrench counter-clockwise as if to lock the latch some more. This takes the play out of the lock and normally triggers even a micro switch that still needs adjustment. While holding the wrench in the far locked position, have someone try to raise the windows. If the windows go up and the beeping turns off then you know you can fix the problem by following the adjustment procedure below.

Note: the photos below say "front lock" instead of rear bow lock - the procedure is used on similar locks in the front of R129s, and I originally created the DIY for those cars.

The micro switch on the rear bow lock gets pushed DOWN by a lever when the lock is OPEN. There is some reverse logic involved here, so take it slow and read very carefully.

As the lock receives the soft top in it and locks, the small lever that is pushing on the switch releases just enough for the switch to click open once the lock itself is in closed position. If the lever has been bumped or bent for some reason, or if the lock has developed play over the years, then oftentimes the lever is not pushing down far enough by the time the lock is in the final (resting) locked position. This resting position can be different from the locked position without the top being latched down by the lock.

This adjustment can be made without removing the lock. Remove the windshield header panel and adjust the lever above the micro switch until it barely touches the switch when the lock is closed. Note the play in the lock - you need to recreate the position the lock would be in if the soft top was closed and pulling up on the lock. This is shown in the third photo with the caption "Front lock in real life with the top pulling". Ideally, the boot of the switch will just start bulging when the lock is in the "real life closed position".







I hope this makes sense, and it will help people out in the future - it sure has helped many R129 SL-Class owners.

Klaus

www.tophydraulicsinc.com.