HELP!! Car stuck in 1st gear
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CLK230 W208
HELP!! Car stuck in 1st gear
W208 2001 CLK230K 12K miles just replaced ATF, Plug & ATF pan seal last month..
So here the problem comes. Yesterday the car was doing fine but today was heavily rain. I get to my car and start it as usual, no error or check engine notification. Here are the symptoms:
1. Car wont go past 1st gear. I had to drive below 30-40kmh and keep RPM below 2K to make sure I dont wreck the engine.
2. Going from Neutral to Drive and vice versa is normal but If i step on brake there is a loud sound from underneath before the car move.
3. Cant move from Drive to Reverse or Park if I step on brake. If I don't step on brake, gear stick move normally.
4. There might be possibility the I spilled just a bit of water from rain when I move my sport bag from driver side to passenger side. If this is the case, how do I start check things up? If the water dried up, will the car back to normal?
Can anybody please help me out?! I love the car but really hope this is not an expensive fix!
So here the problem comes. Yesterday the car was doing fine but today was heavily rain. I get to my car and start it as usual, no error or check engine notification. Here are the symptoms:
1. Car wont go past 1st gear. I had to drive below 30-40kmh and keep RPM below 2K to make sure I dont wreck the engine.
2. Going from Neutral to Drive and vice versa is normal but If i step on brake there is a loud sound from underneath before the car move.
3. Cant move from Drive to Reverse or Park if I step on brake. If I don't step on brake, gear stick move normally.
4. There might be possibility the I spilled just a bit of water from rain when I move my sport bag from driver side to passenger side. If this is the case, how do I start check things up? If the water dried up, will the car back to normal?
Can anybody please help me out?! I love the car but really hope this is not an expensive fix!
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From: SCV SoCal
2002 CLK430
If it's just water, not soda, not coffee, not anything other than water, stop driving the car and dry out the shifter assembly. Disassembling it and using a hair dryer will speed the process up. Just left on its own, water will dry out.
The problem is, there are electronics in the shifter assembly. Water conducts electricity, which is probably driving the TCU batty. Sugar encrusted water will dry too, but it will continue to conduct electricity. In that case, you can disassemble the entire shifter assembly, clean it with electronics spray, and hope you got everything clean. In a worst case scenario, the dealer will fix it. I wouldn't call it a cheap fix, but it's common. Best case, it simply dries. Medium, you replace the shifter electronics. Before you ask, I didn't look it up, so I don't know if a new shifter assembly is version/car coded. I don't think it is.
I hope that helps
The problem is, there are electronics in the shifter assembly. Water conducts electricity, which is probably driving the TCU batty. Sugar encrusted water will dry too, but it will continue to conduct electricity. In that case, you can disassemble the entire shifter assembly, clean it with electronics spray, and hope you got everything clean. In a worst case scenario, the dealer will fix it. I wouldn't call it a cheap fix, but it's common. Best case, it simply dries. Medium, you replace the shifter electronics. Before you ask, I didn't look it up, so I don't know if a new shifter assembly is version/car coded. I don't think it is.
I hope that helps
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CLK230 W208
Well...the thing is I am not very sure water from the rain caused this because my car is 2001 Nov and I read MB has improved center console to withstand water spill from March onwards. Also, the water from the rain we are talking about is just couple drops from bag when moving from driver side to passenger side not exactly beverage spill.
Do I have to reset the codes with STAR before the car goes out of Limp mode even if the car is fixed/dries out?
I will try to check with my local indie who has STAR. Hopefully it dries out and mere error code reset will get the car back to normal.
Do I have to reset the codes with STAR before the car goes out of Limp mode even if the car is fixed/dries out?
I will try to check with my local indie who has STAR. Hopefully it dries out and mere error code reset will get the car back to normal.
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CLK230 W208
Still unable to check on local indie today due to some work..
I did some research today and it seems Limp mode mainly caused by 3 things:
1. The shifter module (usually caused by a liquid substance finding it's way behind the center console area),
2. value/conductor plate (fails from never servicing / changing the transmission fluid/filter)
3. main control module (fails due to a faulty pilot bushing wicking transmission fluid into it).
I checked on my local supplier and they have #2 for $120 (indie is my friend, installation is cheap and clearing code is free). hopefully this is the culprit as others seems a lot more expensive. If its, can I expect direct replacement and clearing the code will put the car back to normal again?
What about Shifter module or Main control module? can I buy 2nd hand and expect direct replacement? i.e.: no programming ,etc...
Please help!!
I did some research today and it seems Limp mode mainly caused by 3 things:
1. The shifter module (usually caused by a liquid substance finding it's way behind the center console area),
2. value/conductor plate (fails from never servicing / changing the transmission fluid/filter)
3. main control module (fails due to a faulty pilot bushing wicking transmission fluid into it).
I checked on my local supplier and they have #2 for $120 (indie is my friend, installation is cheap and clearing code is free). hopefully this is the culprit as others seems a lot more expensive. If its, can I expect direct replacement and clearing the code will put the car back to normal again?
What about Shifter module or Main control module? can I buy 2nd hand and expect direct replacement? i.e.: no programming ,etc...
Please help!!
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From: SCV SoCal
2002 CLK430
The conductor plate and/or the speed sensors that are on it does not fail from a lack of transmission fluid service. My car has had regular transmission services performed at a MB dealer since '06 and still needed a conductor plate. The plate itself can get a hairline crack. There is no way fluid causes a hairline crack. A pilot bushing sits in a recess at the back of the crank. The transmission input shaft slides into that bushing. There is no transmission fluid or electronics involved with a pilot bushing. I'm not guessing about this. I've personally replaced pilot bushings. No one can tell you whether your car needs a conductor plate or a speed sensor until the plate and its sensors are on a workbench in front of them. No one can tell you whether the $5 transmission o-ring has failed and allowed fluid to wick up to the TCU until it is inspected. Many transmission codes can't be cleared without a Star box. I know this for a fact. Read the thread I started in '08 entitled my mega-dollar transmission. I think the fix cost about $800 at a dealer. That included a loaner and they did the O-ring fix while they were at it.
You can toss a lot of money at one of these cars with the hope that you hit the problem. The alternative is the "right way" - dump the codes and repair what is broken. If I were you, I'd drop the car off, have a coffee, look at the new cars in the lobby, and drive away in their loaner. They'll call and tell you the problem, how long until it's ready, and the price.
You can toss a lot of money at one of these cars with the hope that you hit the problem. The alternative is the "right way" - dump the codes and repair what is broken. If I were you, I'd drop the car off, have a coffee, look at the new cars in the lobby, and drive away in their loaner. They'll call and tell you the problem, how long until it's ready, and the price.
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CLK230 W208
Thanks Marcus. I am abit low on cash and certainly hope my fix does not go beyond $800! I checked my local supplier and he has new MB plate ready stock for $100 and since mechanic is my buddy, its going to be a lot cheaper on labor (Star diag. is free). I morbidly hope the conductor plate is the culprit in worst case.
So between all these possibility, will STAR diagnose display accurate error code for mechanic to pinpoint which has cause problem? Also error code has to be cleared by STAR after part replaced before test drive otherwise car will stay in Limp mode even if problem has been fixed, correct?
So between all these possibility, will STAR diagnose display accurate error code for mechanic to pinpoint which has cause problem? Also error code has to be cleared by STAR after part replaced before test drive otherwise car will stay in Limp mode even if problem has been fixed, correct?
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CLK230 W208
Is the O-ring fix you mentioned is 2 rubber band on the socket adapter that normally replaced along with ATF, Trans. filter and gasket on trans oil pan? If yes, I just replaced these last month during ATF change so hopefully not TCU.
I left the car out during heavy rain before the error but all windows/sunroof closed and I am sure I have no leak so hopefully not ESM either.
Of course, I will follow your advise and hook on Star asap. Will report back soon!
I left the car out during heavy rain before the error but all windows/sunroof closed and I am sure I have no leak so hopefully not ESM either.
Of course, I will follow your advise and hook on Star asap. Will report back soon!
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: SCV SoCal
2002 CLK430
Sounds like you did the $5 o-ring job, so it is highly unlikely that the TCU is sitting in transmission fluid.
The STAR box will tell the mechanic the failure code. When my plate cracked, I dumped the codes at home and knew the TCU wasn't receiving a proper signal from one of the speed sensors on the plate. The dealer pulled the plate and could see the crack. The sensors were all good so he just put in a new plate. If your Indy can get the plate for $100, your bill will be lower than mine. Your parts list will be something like - the plate, the pan gasket, the transmission dipstick tube cover, however many quarts of fluid are required to top it off, and another filter.
The only other culprit that comes to mind is when the fluid was last changed. It's supposed to be ultra clean (no dust storms while the pan is off) and the trans is not supposed to be over or under filled. The fluid level is supposed to be checked cold and then again at temperature. The STAR box checks the fluid temperature so the mechanic knows how much to add. DIY types use an infrared pyrometer, which works just as well (so I'm told, I never personally do fluid changes at home. The dealer charges me ~$300 and for that little, he can have it).
I hope that helps
The STAR box will tell the mechanic the failure code. When my plate cracked, I dumped the codes at home and knew the TCU wasn't receiving a proper signal from one of the speed sensors on the plate. The dealer pulled the plate and could see the crack. The sensors were all good so he just put in a new plate. If your Indy can get the plate for $100, your bill will be lower than mine. Your parts list will be something like - the plate, the pan gasket, the transmission dipstick tube cover, however many quarts of fluid are required to top it off, and another filter.
The only other culprit that comes to mind is when the fluid was last changed. It's supposed to be ultra clean (no dust storms while the pan is off) and the trans is not supposed to be over or under filled. The fluid level is supposed to be checked cold and then again at temperature. The STAR box checks the fluid temperature so the mechanic knows how much to add. DIY types use an infrared pyrometer, which works just as well (so I'm told, I never personally do fluid changes at home. The dealer charges me ~$300 and for that little, he can have it).
I hope that helps
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CLK230 W208
Quick Update!
Went to my mechanic today, got the car plugged, triggered EGS error. My mechanic unplug EGS check cable and there is oil residue. The spray some cleaners and wipe it clean. He also check EGS board and everything seems intact.
Plug it back in and error cleared. After he rescan the car, EGS issue no longer appeared! we then take the car for a spin and so far after 20km, everything is back to normal! Hope the car stays well. I will consider change the plate maybe next week anyway just in case.
Thanks everyone for the input! much appreciated!
Went to my mechanic today, got the car plugged, triggered EGS error. My mechanic unplug EGS check cable and there is oil residue. The spray some cleaners and wipe it clean. He also check EGS board and everything seems intact.
Plug it back in and error cleared. After he rescan the car, EGS issue no longer appeared! we then take the car for a spin and so far after 20km, everything is back to normal! Hope the car stays well. I will consider change the plate maybe next week anyway just in case.
Thanks everyone for the input! much appreciated!
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CLK230 W208
Bad News!
The car went on limp mode again 2 days ago and today (same exact symptoms). But strangely I shut down the engine, pulled the key and waited couple of seconds before restarted the car and it goes back to normal.
One more thing... this only happen during cold start where the car has not been driven for 1-2 days. Igniting car after couple hours stop seems fine.
Anybody has same experience before? Does this sounds like bad plate conductor?
Much appreciated any input!
The car went on limp mode again 2 days ago and today (same exact symptoms). But strangely I shut down the engine, pulled the key and waited couple of seconds before restarted the car and it goes back to normal.
One more thing... this only happen during cold start where the car has not been driven for 1-2 days. Igniting car after couple hours stop seems fine.
Anybody has same experience before? Does this sounds like bad plate conductor?
Much appreciated any input!
