After running their tests the dealership quoted me $1800 for replacing the compressor and Reciever/Dryer. I can get the parts for $400 but am wondering if its something I can do myself.

Does anyone have experience with this? Any write ups you can send my way?

Thanks

 

It looks like it will come out fairly easily from the bottom. You should replace the expansion valve too. If you find any evidence of "Black Death" black gooey sludge you need to flush the system thoroughly. Be sure to add the proper amount of oil to system. It may be easier to let a local ac repair shop vacuum and refill system. It needs to be done by weight not pressure. These variable displacement compressors are a pain to trouble shoot. I don't want to write mine off, but it's coming to that point.

 

Not yet - my 2000 CLK430 is still working flawlessly. Still cools down with 4 fan bars showing with temps in the 100F with SUPER high humidity at idle - 38F within 8 minutes which is excellent. I do have a small leak at the drier between the condenser and required a slight fill up last spring. So far its been holding all summer. May be a line or o-ring that might not be seating properly. Don't know- have to recheck the dye with a UV light again.

If you find an agreeable shop that specializes only in heating and cooling source the compressor and other parts yourself. Have them evac the system and do a complete flush to remove all traces of oil and gunk.

Then replace the expansion valve - not that easy but if you find the WIS it should show all the steps. Getting to it is a pain. Then mount the receiver/drier and replace the sensors (they can leak over time) and replace the o-rings. Lube first with some PAG oil. Do it in an air conditioned house without any humidity. Do it fairly quickly. Leaving it open makes it absorb moisture. Keep the ports sealed that will be used for the AC lines. Install it in the car with the hoses free. Let them do the final hookup and have new o-rings put in.

Remove the compressor and mount the new one but keep the ports sealed until ready for the fill. Oil should be already measured and installed in the unit.

AGAIN - a total flush is necessary to maintain the new compressor's warranty. You need to have this on the receipt. I've seen DENSO's (NeW) on Amazon for about 230 including shipping which is a steal.

Now have them hook everything up. Draw a vacuum and refill by weight based on temp and humidity. Assuming that your condensor and evaporator and lines are good and not leaking the system should function like new.

I had a VW GTI VR6 that I had done as above. Save several hours of labor which adds up. NEVER do AC/Heating at the dealer - they generally sub it out and just make a ton of profit. Yes it generally will get done properly and they will stand by the work but so do independents. Price differential is significant and the work is generally the same as long as electronics are not involved.

 

Thanks guys I appreciate the responses. Gonna do what I can then take it to an Indy as suggested.

 

Are you sure it's not your condenser that needs replacing? They're the most common cause of problems with aircon.

 

Just did this job myself and completed last month,

As others have stated the compressor is easy, the drier is easy, I had problems with the expansion valve screws.

My carfax indicated dealer service in the past on the AC and the expansion valve screws were stripped bad. I had to drill them out and made an easy drill extension. (no photos at this time).

The important part is determining failure, Leak, burn out or no pump.

If you had a locked up compressor from burnout then extreme flushing is required. Replace o-rings on all open connections never lubricate the o-rings with the PAG 46 oil.

Measure removed oil and replace with PAG 46.

My china ebay nockoff sounds and cools like champ but a new Nippondenso is the way to go.
Evacuate at least 30 min prior to charging.

hope this helps, Gator

 

Alexyates- the dealership did there inspection and determined it was the compressor but no mention of the condenser. Is there a way that I can check the condenser?

 

If you have dye in the system it should be easy to see with a UV light traces of leakage anywhere on the condensor. You'll need a UV light with yellow glasses - and a dark garage to find any leaks. Generally they fail at the connectors at the bottom or from rock damage. An evaporator is nearly impossible to detect leaks with this methods since its housed in a box under the dash. You need an accurate/callibrated sniffer with an operating AC system to find the source of the leaking gas.