My story with Merc started last autumn, when i got clk320. Seller of this Merc did know (obviously) about the issue, but he knew i wouldn't try to open the top because of low temperature!!!
Well, now i found out that the soft top will work fine, but only just after i have connected battery again after long winter season. On next day when i started up the Merc and tried to take soft top down....nothing did work....not soft top worked and windows didn't work as well as roll over bar didn't move and it was not possible open the trunk!
I took the battery off again....had a cup of coffee, came back and connected the battery again....EVERYTHING WORKED PROPERLY!!!!!
Tested soft top several times, and it worked all the time properly....until...on the next day, again....the red light came on when i started Mercedes again. And naturally nothing worked, just like previously

Has anybody had anything like this? Has someone solved this kind of issue already?

I've red thru every story i have found from Mb forums....and and haven't found an issue like mine.
(and no, i haven't tried "star" yet.....not so easy to find someone with "star" here )

 

Answering to myself;
I got the soft top working again....but after some time, it didn't worked -just like usually it has done. Has somebody who have had burnt electric motor in hydraulic kompr. noticed anything same kind of action?

 

Here is something easy to check and somewhere to start.
I had a corroded/pitted fuse causing a problem.
see here:
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...top-fixed.html

 

While numerous threads already existing, that provide a treasure chest of wisdom for trouble shooting and DIY repair of the W208 power roof, I found your note both intriguing and not previously addressed.

As if just the power roof specific components (e.g. all the hydraulic cylinders, position/limit/interlock switches, pump, motor, starting relay, tension cables etc.) that provide controller inputs/outputs weren't already problematic enough, the controller also communicates via the CAN-Bus to control and evaluate that the other required vehicle subsystems are functioning properly (e.g. power window operation, rollbar, vehicle speed and engine temperature limits are not exceeded, electrical system voltage is not to low etc.). Additionally, if the controller has a stored fault, from either a CAN-Bus attached peripheral system or a roof specific component, the power roof will not operate. See enclosed block diagram of the N52 power roof controller.

From what you described, your power roof fails to get past this point. When you unlock the locking handle, a switch in the window frame toggles, telling the controller that the front bow has been unlocked. The controller will then communicates with the window control module, via the CAN-Bus, to initiate and verify the lowering of the windows. You indicated that disconnecting the battery seems to temporarily restore power roof operation. However, doing so has no affect on the power roof controller, but does require the resetting of the power windows, ABS/BAS limits. Does the roof stop working before or after doing those resets? Do you windows operate via the switches on the center console?

That said, this is not your Father's Oldsmobile and trouble shooting an electrical system problem today can be quite perplexing, due to the CANBus communication using both physical and data layer protocols and that many connected nodes/device-controllers also using voltage encoding (e.g. where a single wire provides multiple channels or control functions).

Occasionally, it's possible.....just to illustrate the complexities.

Recently, upon braking, I occasionally got a lamp out warning. I was able to dismiss the warning by recycling the display using the steering wheel button. Then one day, after closing the trunk, the lamp out warning always triggered upon braking. Upon looking for the failed lamp, I found that none of the lamps located on the trunk lid to be operation (e.g. backup, 3rd brake light, rear fog, license plate etc.). Additionally, with the car turned off, opening the truck also operated the passenger side mirror and then the electrical radiator cooling fan at full speed. If I opened trunk while the engine was running, the dash also lit up / flashed like a Xmas tree, relays clicked away etc.. Putting 1 and 1 together (e.g. eventually opening/closing the trunk worsened the problem and all the trunk lid lamps were inoperative), I suspected an issue in the wiring harness between the trunk lid and quarter panel. Another hint was that there have been severed wires within wiring harness in the soft top cover hinge (e.g. affecting failures with the bow and/or cover locking). I cut open the protective rubber sleeve and found that a large brown wire had been cut (e.g. brown is the color code for MB ground wires and this wire was the ground return for the entire trunk lid). Why did this wire fail? IMHO, while the wire was of multiple stands, to few of larger gauge were used. In my repair, I cut out the entire length and replaced it with a more flexible wire (e.g. more stands of finer wire).

Lastly, in your answer to yourself, I'm not sure why your now focusing on a burnt out pump motor.

Bottom line......while the treasure chest of existing forum information and strong trouble shooting skills can often a lot of money, given your symptoms, I would strongly suggest having a MB SDS diagnostic at this time.

 

marko06......I almost included your referenced post in my prior reply to the OP, not only because it demonstrated strong troubleshooting skills, but yet another, rare but less frequent issue with the W208 power roof.

The fuse that you found defective is 1 of 3 that are involved in the operation of the power roof.

Specifically, it provides very high current to the pump motor, via a simple series circuit between the battery, fuse, relay and motor.

Typically, the make/break relay contacts pit, causing added resistance and failure of the circuit and the pump motor not turning on.

However, from the OP description, his failure occurs much prior to pump motor operation.

Lastly, for many of us, Spring is the season to operate our power roofs.

Unfortunately, once again the new-bees post (e.g. 4 alone this week) who have yet to read their owners manual, covering what the blinking light on one the main switch indicates or have not searched the numerous existing treads covering common problems and solutions, that abound.

Additionally, their post (e.g. typically unanswered because prior resolutions), just lead to many more dead ends, to those who make the effort.

Go figure.

 

Thank you sir for those kind words.
Sounds like you certainly have a solid handle on the top operation and electronics in general. I've seen some of your other posts and you are one of the most helpful members I've come across on any forum. Cheers.
Mark.

 

Tons of thanks "marko69" and "Serndipity"! I try to check everything (once again) and let's hope i would find something which cause this problem.
Yesterday was sunny day and we drove top down and everything seemed to be ok, but later on the evening my son called and said the top won't work again.
Anyway, i'm most concern if there was a big problem with the electric motor in hydraulics or even in the soft top module (because those are very expensive parts, as well as hard to find).
Now i will work with my son's Volvo (broken timing belt, and...) and after that i have more time to check Mb

 

Disconnecting the battery will make everything do as they should do...without resetting any new limits!?! There won't be the red light in soft top switch, windows works properly and also the top does everything just like it should do.

At first I thought it could be the burnt pump motor, because there must be some electric device connected and "on" because when i connect the battery again there becomes quite strong sparks at the first time but when i connect the battery again there is no sparks any more...
BUT, you're right....i should have my car to MB diagnost (unfortunately here is not any good one!).
I will continue this later...

 

Whenever the battery is disconnected, you need to reset the windows, ABS/BAS and radio code. This is covered in the owner's manual.

Also in the owner's manual is a description of what the lamp in the main soft top switch is indicating when it's lit, blinking etc. (also see enclosed thumbnail) and that if the roof was being operated when a loss of power occurred, the roof needs to be resynchronized.

 

I agree totally with you, but i have noticed everything works properly even without reset or resynchronization.
Anyway, i've learnt more that concern the situation where from everything started....obviously locking doors makes the red light come up!
Today, when my son drove Mb he told me everything has worked properly, even the roof, but when he did lock the door and visited in a market and came back into the car, the red light came back???? Is there some connection between the roof and door locking? All this is getting more and more weird ....well, i will keep on searching for the primary fault.

Thanks again for your answer!

-Kari-

 

Yes, there is some connection between the power roof and the central locking system.

The thumbnail, in post #2, shows that the N52 power roof controller is connected to CAN-Bus module A37, which is the pneumatic system equipment (PSE) control module.

See enclosed CAN-Bus thumbnails.

Prior to making the repair to my trunk lid harness, another symptom was that after opening/closing the trunk, I had to wait around 30 seconds before the central locking system would work. Otherwise central locking/unlocking operated normally (e.g. delay only occurred after opening trunk lid). Prior to repairing the ground fault, given all the strange anomalies, I wondered if the power roof would operate, but it worked fine.

BTW, had I not found the broken wire in the lid hinge wiring harness, I thought of other possibilities (e.g. Signal Acquisition Module SAM etc.) but decided that my next step would have been to look at the MB SDS diagnostic fault codes.

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...at-s-next.html

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w208...-problems.html

 

Again, many thanks of the very usable new information....

...fortunately my Mb doesn't do anything like random Horn honks

But seriously speaking, i found out that there must be some problem with door locking/pneumatic... unfortunately i don't have enough of time to inspect any further right now....later...but anyway, i will tell you the result what i might have found
Now i need to sleep a little and tomorrow i will continue my son's Volvo (timing belt)...

-Kari-

 

HELLO EVERYBODY! Finally it seems like the problem would been solved!!!!!!
I took my car to a guy who have "The Star-reader" and he looked thru all electronics in my car, deleted all fault codes....and surprise, surprise....everything started to work properly!!!!!!
Now i have been driving many days after this operation and still everything works fine....so, all this did cost only 20 EUR!!!!!!

Almost everybody has told me it's not possible....but it seems to be true...everything works fine!
...AND, i found this guy with the Star from Finnish Mb-forum...so, keep on this valuable hobby on the forum here also!

Have a nice summer!

 

I have a 1999 CLK cabriolet and the electric motor that drives the convertible top pump is burned out. I have sent to two different rebuild shops and neither one can rebuild it due to not being able to source the parts that are damaged. Does anyone have any information on where to purchase a new, rebuilt, or replacement motor. The pump is fine and I don't want to purchase a new, used pump just to get the motor is I can avoid it.

Thanks

 

www.tophydraulicsinc.com

Best, Gator and welcome aboard