Few things I learned replacing drag link and lower ball joints.
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Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 147
Likes: 2
2002 CLK430
Few things I learned replacing drag link and lower ball joints.
Last night I replaced the drag link, idler bushing and lower ball joints. Here are a few of my learning experiences.
The joints are really difficult to break apart. Definitely the most difficult I experienced. A pickle fork is your friend only if replacing as it will destroy the old joints.
To remove the lower joint from the upright, I had to use a good amount of heat on the upright to break the joint free. Make sure you apply heat only to the upright and not to the old joint.
When installing the new lower joint, first insert the joint on the lower control arm and thread the nut a few turns but leave the joint loose. Then line up the stationary part of the joint with the upright and lightly tap the joint so the alignment pin begins to seat. Then crank away. (an IR231 is your friend here) If you completely crank down either side of the joint you'll never get things lined up.
I did this without removing the upper joint. I tried to pop it free which would have made life way easier, but it wouldn't budge without a pickle fork and destroying the boot.
YMMV.
-J
The joints are really difficult to break apart. Definitely the most difficult I experienced. A pickle fork is your friend only if replacing as it will destroy the old joints.
To remove the lower joint from the upright, I had to use a good amount of heat on the upright to break the joint free. Make sure you apply heat only to the upright and not to the old joint.
When installing the new lower joint, first insert the joint on the lower control arm and thread the nut a few turns but leave the joint loose. Then line up the stationary part of the joint with the upright and lightly tap the joint so the alignment pin begins to seat. Then crank away. (an IR231 is your friend here) If you completely crank down either side of the joint you'll never get things lined up.
I did this without removing the upper joint. I tried to pop it free which would have made life way easier, but it wouldn't budge without a pickle fork and destroying the boot.
YMMV.
-J
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 168
From: Glasgow, Scotland, UK
SL 350 R230 (3.7L with AMG Speedshift autobox)
Last night I replaced the drag link, idler bushing and lower ball joints. Here are a few of my learning experiences.
The joints are really difficult to break apart. Definitely the most difficult I experienced. A pickle fork is your friend only if replacing as it will destroy the old joints.
To remove the lower joint from the upright, I had to use a good amount of heat on the upright to break the joint free. Make sure you apply heat only to the upright and not to the old joint.
When installing the new lower joint, first insert the joint on the lower control arm and thread the nut a few turns but leave the joint loose. Then line up the stationary part of the joint with the upright and lightly tap the joint so the alignment pin begins to seat. Then crank away. (an IR231 is your friend here) If you completely crank down either side of the joint you'll never get things lined up.
I did this without removing the upper joint. I tried to pop it free which would have made life way easier, but it wouldn't budge without a pickle fork and destroying the boot.
YMMV.
-J
The joints are really difficult to break apart. Definitely the most difficult I experienced. A pickle fork is your friend only if replacing as it will destroy the old joints.
To remove the lower joint from the upright, I had to use a good amount of heat on the upright to break the joint free. Make sure you apply heat only to the upright and not to the old joint.
When installing the new lower joint, first insert the joint on the lower control arm and thread the nut a few turns but leave the joint loose. Then line up the stationary part of the joint with the upright and lightly tap the joint so the alignment pin begins to seat. Then crank away. (an IR231 is your friend here) If you completely crank down either side of the joint you'll never get things lined up.
I did this without removing the upper joint. I tried to pop it free which would have made life way easier, but it wouldn't budge without a pickle fork and destroying the boot.
YMMV.
-J
My tips would be to just use a spanner (wrench) and hammer:
Undo and remove the top nut and side nut on the ball joint.
Use your hammer to hit firmly on the body wherer the ball joint is fitted (not the ball joint itself), the shock should break the tapper seal.
Gently tap a couple of times on the bolts that have the nuts removed and it should pop out.
If the small locating pin gets stuck in the body, you can leave it there and just remove the locating pin on the new ball joint.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 147
Likes: 2
2002 CLK430
A ball joint tool would have been nice, but I don't have one in the box. I've always been able to break the taper with a firm crack of the hammer. These wouldn't budge and all I had was a fork.
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: SCV SoCal
2002 CLK430
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 168
From: Glasgow, Scotland, UK
SL 350 R230 (3.7L with AMG Speedshift autobox)
You very well may have a cheaper version. The Hazet version has a list price of over $200 (HZ1790-7), and ebay has one for $12, so there is a wide range of cost and quality. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Ba...gAAOSwWnFV9zYn
For me just leave the top nut on and hit it once or twice with a hammer, never had issued with the 5 i've changed. Ensure you add some grease on the new one.
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