MikeyOh
08-05-2016, 08:06 PM
#1
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1999 CLK 320 Convertible
MikeyOh
Hi:
I bought a 1999 CLK320 about a year ago.
I love it but, I'm having a problem with the top. It goes up and down just fine (well, I have to help it but, I think I found the problem on this site, a cable. I will check it out) but, when I put the top up the bottom edge below the back window comes out of the groove. There is a white plastic band that pulls out in the corners. It is getting split now. I did notice a small metal clip fall out one time that probably is used to hod the plastic in the grove.
Anyone ever had this problem and know how to remedy it?
Thanks,
MikeyOh
I bought a 1999 CLK320 about a year ago.
I love it but, I'm having a problem with the top. It goes up and down just fine (well, I have to help it but, I think I found the problem on this site, a cable. I will check it out) but, when I put the top up the bottom edge below the back window comes out of the groove. There is a white plastic band that pulls out in the corners. It is getting split now. I did notice a small metal clip fall out one time that probably is used to hod the plastic in the grove.
Anyone ever had this problem and know how to remedy it?
Thanks,
MikeyOh
08-10-2016, 09:16 PM
#3
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If the roof operates normally, it's not the cables (e.g. I assume you read something about the tension cables).
While the tension cables, between the front and rear bow, can break or stretch, the typical symptoms that the roof will not open (e.g. because roof's framework joints do not open sufficiently to allow the hydraulics to open the roof) or in closing, the front bow will slam down on the windshield.
You mention that your power roof operates fine, but you have to help it.
If the tension cables are good, when you release the locking handle, the front bow will pop up 8 or 10 inches and stay there. Additionally, the distance, between front bow and wind shield, on both sides, should be the same.
I'm not familiar with your discussion regarding plastic bands, clips etc. Are these items that attach the roof liner?
If the rear bow is not locking properly (e.g. coming out of the grove), it's because the 'rear bow' locking/unlocking mechanism or related hydraulic cylinder is not doing its job.
While the tension cables, between the front and rear bow, can break or stretch, the typical symptoms that the roof will not open (e.g. because roof's framework joints do not open sufficiently to allow the hydraulics to open the roof) or in closing, the front bow will slam down on the windshield.
You mention that your power roof operates fine, but you have to help it.
If the tension cables are good, when you release the locking handle, the front bow will pop up 8 or 10 inches and stay there. Additionally, the distance, between front bow and wind shield, on both sides, should be the same.
I'm not familiar with your discussion regarding plastic bands, clips etc. Are these items that attach the roof liner?
If the rear bow is not locking properly (e.g. coming out of the grove), it's because the 'rear bow' locking/unlocking mechanism or related hydraulic cylinder is not doing its job.
Last edited by Serndipity; 08-10-2016 at 09:23 PM.
08-10-2016, 10:18 PM
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Thanks Serndipity
I do need to troubleshoot the top movement. I have to lift it up a about 8 inches to get it to start raising. And, catch it before it drops back down when closing. I saw a frayed cable end hanging down in the area of the passenger window this morning but, I haven't had time to look into it yet.
It looks like the plastic and clips attach the external roof cover to the frame below the rear window. I will try to post a picture of it this weekend.
Thanks again,
MikeyOh
It looks like the plastic and clips attach the external roof cover to the frame below the rear window. I will try to post a picture of it this weekend.
Thanks again,
MikeyOh
08-14-2016, 02:53 PM
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
When opening the roof, your having to push the front bow up after unlatching, as well as, having to catch the front bow when closing are definite symptoms of broken tension cables.
There are 2 cables (passenger and driver sides), they cost about $100 each and can be DIY replaced. You can also buy the MB OE cables from several online retailers, for a bit less.
Also, if you haven't seen this thread, it provides other alternatives.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/c208...fixed-1-a.html
I looked at the picture you posted on your rear window problem, it's very strange and not clear as to what is going on. It looks like the window is becoming detached from the roof opening, the W208 window is glass so why the wavy electrical defrost lines, what is that metal object located at the bottom center of the window.
There are 2 cables (passenger and driver sides), they cost about $100 each and can be DIY replaced. You can also buy the MB OE cables from several online retailers, for a bit less.
Also, if you haven't seen this thread, it provides other alternatives.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/c208...fixed-1-a.html
I looked at the picture you posted on your rear window problem, it's very strange and not clear as to what is going on. It looks like the window is becoming detached from the roof opening, the W208 window is glass so why the wavy electrical defrost lines, what is that metal object located at the bottom center of the window.
08-14-2016, 06:06 PM
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Hi Serndipity:
I just checked, I need BOTH cables!
And, thanks for the link, I may just buy both cables. I am not sure where the cable end connects since they were both broken, not sure where the plastic parts that hold the cable in are either. I will try to find a detailed picture.
Sorry about the picture, that is a reflection of my garage door and garage door hinge in my rear window :-)
The white plastic seems to be used to hold the top to the frame at the very rear of the top where is sits on the copper beauty trim.
I noticed a seam coming apart in the top too. It is pretty dried out. I wonder if I get a new external top is it will have what is needed to attach to the rear frame?
Thanks again,
mikeyoh
I just checked, I need BOTH cables!
And, thanks for the link, I may just buy both cables. I am not sure where the cable end connects since they were both broken, not sure where the plastic parts that hold the cable in are either. I will try to find a detailed picture.
Sorry about the picture, that is a reflection of my garage door and garage door hinge in my rear window :-)
The white plastic seems to be used to hold the top to the frame at the very rear of the top where is sits on the copper beauty trim.
I noticed a seam coming apart in the top too. It is pretty dried out. I wonder if I get a new external top is it will have what is needed to attach to the rear frame?
Thanks again,
mikeyoh
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08-14-2016, 07:17 PM
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
Unfortunately, the cables are only available as OE from dealers or from some online retailers for a bit less.
If your 1999 is in very good condition and you're planning to drive it awhile, if it where me, I would buy and DIY install new OE tension cables (e.g with a properly operating power roof, you'll recoup the money and then some, on a future sale).
On the other hand, if your car is near end of life, you'll still be able to enjoy power roof up/down (e.g. after unlatching, push up the front bow to make sure the roof's frame joints, located above the front windows open up, allowing the hydraulics to continue opening the roof and when closing, manually catching the front bow, to keep it crashing down onto the windshield frame).
I believe the prior link sent, has the information you'll need to attach new cables.
If not, you'll find DIY instructionals in this forum or at benzworld.org. Typically, forum searches are a PITA and returm many dead ends. Instead use Google's advanced search, where you can enter exact/specific search terms and sites to search.
OK on the picture reflections etc.
Are you referring to the plastic rear window surround molding, located between the interior roof liner and rear window?
On our older W208 models, the plastic molding become fragile and cracks, which has been a common problem. While I'm much more in tune, with helping other owner's, in keeping their power roof electrics and hydraulics operational, a new OE surround molding is inexpensively available. However, installation is $$$. With one exception, I believe replacement is only cosmetics. The exception is that a piece can break off, which then can potentially puncture the canvass roof, when it's folded.
If your 1999 is in very good condition and you're planning to drive it awhile, if it where me, I would buy and DIY install new OE tension cables (e.g with a properly operating power roof, you'll recoup the money and then some, on a future sale).
On the other hand, if your car is near end of life, you'll still be able to enjoy power roof up/down (e.g. after unlatching, push up the front bow to make sure the roof's frame joints, located above the front windows open up, allowing the hydraulics to continue opening the roof and when closing, manually catching the front bow, to keep it crashing down onto the windshield frame).
I believe the prior link sent, has the information you'll need to attach new cables.
If not, you'll find DIY instructionals in this forum or at benzworld.org. Typically, forum searches are a PITA and returm many dead ends. Instead use Google's advanced search, where you can enter exact/specific search terms and sites to search.
OK on the picture reflections etc.
Are you referring to the plastic rear window surround molding, located between the interior roof liner and rear window?
On our older W208 models, the plastic molding become fragile and cracks, which has been a common problem. While I'm much more in tune, with helping other owner's, in keeping their power roof electrics and hydraulics operational, a new OE surround molding is inexpensively available. However, installation is $$$. With one exception, I believe replacement is only cosmetics. The exception is that a piece can break off, which then can potentially puncture the canvass roof, when it's folded.
08-14-2016, 08:52 PM
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1999 CLK 320 Convertible
Serndipity:
Good advice. It is a Colorado car with no rust. And, only 85K miles. So, I think it is worth making fully functional for keeping or resale. When I bought it the guy showed me how the top worked and I noticed he pushed it up. He said they are all like that. Now I know! I ordered 2 new cables and, once installed, I will still help it going up and catch it coming down!
Maybe you saw the picture I posted of the back edge of a top. That white strip is all cracked on mine. It says it is sewn into the top and is held in with little metal clips. I found a couple of those laying in the trunk! I may order a replacement top and try to do it myself. I found good directions on this forum. In the interim I will use it as it is. Winter is coming :-)
Thanks again!
Mikeyoh
Good advice. It is a Colorado car with no rust. And, only 85K miles. So, I think it is worth making fully functional for keeping or resale. When I bought it the guy showed me how the top worked and I noticed he pushed it up. He said they are all like that. Now I know! I ordered 2 new cables and, once installed, I will still help it going up and catch it coming down!
Maybe you saw the picture I posted of the back edge of a top. That white strip is all cracked on mine. It says it is sewn into the top and is held in with little metal clips. I found a couple of those laying in the trunk! I may order a replacement top and try to do it myself. I found good directions on this forum. In the interim I will use it as it is. Winter is coming :-)
Thanks again!
Mikeyoh
