ad3

Hi All, sorry for the typical newbie cry for help.

So pretty simple and apparently not smart - I manually turned the alan key inside the top of the boot to release the latch for the softop (because I thought the latch may be stuck, causing the roof not to open), I then closed the luggage compartment and the trunk to test the roof. Not only did the roof still not work but I can no longer open the trunk with any of the main methods (dash switch, fob button, manual key), and the rear of the roof is now loose and I can't close it.

I've tried pushing the back of the roof down but the latch must still be in open position and as it does not engage with the roof to hold it shut. So I'm driving around with a 1/2" gap and it rattling around

Anyone know a way into the trunk? Is it possible through the back seats? Getting the roof to open/close now seems like a secondary problem, just want to get it fully closed again now and get to use my trunk again!

Aussiesuede

Use this method here to manually release the Hard Cover. https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ml#post6767378


After lifting the hard cover, you'll have access to port where you turned that allen key. Reinsert the allen key and turn it towards the passenger side (Right). This should fool the system into believing the top has been latched and your trunk should then again become operational. Now your problem will be that the trunk can't be opened at the same time that the hard cover is open since they'd interfere with each other. This is the reason you don't currently have an operational trunk. When the rear roof unlatches it shuts off power to the trunk to that they can't interfere with one another. So before you can again gain access to the trunk you'll have to manually relatch the hard cover.

1) 1st maneuver the 10mm box wrench towards the Drivers Side (left) until it clicks

2) Then lower the hard cover

3) Now maneuver the 10mm box wrench towards the Passenger side (right) until it clicks

You should now be able to open the trunk


For the record, gaining access to the trunk through the back seat can only be accomplished by removal of both the seat back and the rollbar (Rear Headrests) mechanism as that roll bar mechanism is essentially a wall. If the above doesn't work, then you can take that route as a LAST RESORT and that can be accomplished by following the instructions at this link: https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ering-how.html

Serndipity

By design, the roll bar/soft-top control module, cyclically supplies the information "SOFT TOP CLOSED", "SOFT TOP UNLOCKED" or "SOFT TOP OPEN" to the CAN databus.

As soon as the message "SOFT TOP UNLOCKED" is received, the pneumatic system equipment will no longer perform any remote trunk release operations. The aforementioned signals are supplied by position/limit switches associated with the case cover and rear bow hydraulic cylinders.

This is to prevent the case cover and an open truck lid from colliding with one another.

However, the mechanical key will still open the trunk. The correct method is to turn the key 45 degrees counter clockwise and then push the key in, which should trip the lock's release tab.

Alternatively, if your hydraulic system is in good working order, you can try using the MB subsequent locking feature to hydraulically position the locks. The details are in the enclosed thumbnail.

As Aussiesuede mentioned, as a last resort you can manually get access to the case cover and rear bow hydraulic cylinders and their position/limit switches. Then you can manually trip the switches and enable remote truck release operation.

ad3

Thanks for your replies - I will have another go today.

I had considered opening the cover with the spanner down the back of the seats, however the softop seems to be half-latched i.e. we tried lifting it and it wouldn't budge. Therefore if I can open the cover at all it will just hit the roof (but might open enough to get an arm in!

I'll try the key and provided thumbnail method first

ad3

Hi again, no joy - lock does not turn in any direction with the key (no idea if it has ever worked that way as never had a need to try the key).

The 'subsequent locking feature' does nothing apart from make a few noises. Finally the wrench down the back seat is also not doing anything - either it's not a 10mm or something else is wrong with it (can't get my head in the gap to see down the crack to identify the tool required). I'll try a few more wrench sizes but since everyone seems certain it should be a 10mm I am now feeling sceptical.

I guess I could drill a hole in the trunk to try to get a long handled tool through it to the latch release, but that seems a tad extreme.

ad3

Is it possible to pull out the fuse for the system that locks the boot (or controls the roof)? Or perhaps it's possible to ground (or introduce a current) to a wire in the loom somewhere? (in order to override one of these pesky systems).

Crap design but I suppose in Mercedes defence they don't build cars to last 15 years, sadly.

Serndipity

The subsequent locking feature only works if the hydraulic system is in good working order. I suspect that either your rear bow and/or case cover hydraulic cylinders have developed a leak, which has been a common issue and why your power roof malfunctioned to begin with.

Unfortunately, I've read of numerous cases where the lock won't properly turn.

If the mechanical key won't turn, you might be able to free up the mechanism with Lock-Ease.

http://agscompany.com/product/lock-e...-aerosol-3-oz/

Spray the key, insert into lock and wiggle. You'll likely need to repeat a good number of times. Do not try to turn the key with pliers, as the key can break and remain in the lock.

Others have used WD-40 to free the lock, which then leaves behind a residue that hardens over time.

A 10mm open end wrench is the correct tool needed to turn the bolt between the back seat rest and compartment cover. The one that comes included in the toolkit is very thin, to fit into the limited space and properly engage the bolt.

I've read some threads where owners drilled out their locks to try to open the trunk, unsuccessfully.

Should you not be able to get your trunk lock to turn, I recall reading a thread, where after removing the back seat, there was enough space and using a long rod, they were able to trip the lock's mechanical release tab.

I do not believe that pulling any fuse will help. Again, as soon as a CANBus message "SOFT TOP UNLOCKED" is received, the pneumatic system equipment will no longer perform any remote trunk release operations. The aforementioned signals are supplied by position/limit switches associated with the case cover and rear bow hydraulic cylinders. By manipulating the case cover or bow lock limit switches into their proper positions, the fault should resolve itself.

That said, I wonder if the stored fault code(s) can be erased, using the MB STAR diagnostic software, to enable the remote release function.

Aussiesuede

Definitely do not attempt drilling out the lock as it's ultimately a pointless endeavor (as seen in the link below). You're now going to have to go through the back seat and unbolt the rollbar mechanism. There is no need to disconnect the hydraulics nor electrical connections from the rollbar mechanism as you can gain sufficient access to the trunk by simply canting it forward after removing the 6 bolts per the instructions in my earlier link. Once you've gained access, the easiest way to get the trunk open is to remove the 2 10mm bolts securing the strike plate as pictured in the link below.

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...rill-lock.html

ad3

Aussie - if you undo the two bolts on the strike plate from inside the trunk does that definitely release it?





I got the back seats out, luggage compartment released with a long pole (working through the 1/2" gap that I can get the softop cover open!) now to find a socket extension long enough to reach those two strike plate bolts.. must be over 1 metre.


Thank you!

Aussiesuede

Yes. When you unbolt the strike plate, there is nothing else holding the trunk lid. You can get 1 meter extensions at Harbor Freight. Get 2 of them to make it easiest on yourself.

Raindance

The physical key lock won't turn because it probably hasn't been used since the car was built. I had to do exactly the same thing yesterday and it took me 15 minutes and a lot of wd40 and wiggling the key to get the lock moving.

clk_55

Sorry I'm seeing this now but I had a similar issue 3 weeks ago when a dumb sales manager screwed up my top sequence. I couldn't open my trunk.

Step 1: Try raising then lowering your roll bar (do not attempt anything further before trying this)

Step 2: Try pulling up on the soft top case cover. If it moves up then the lock isn't engaged and that's exactly why your trunk isn't opening. How do I know this? Because it's exactly what happened to me - sent me into a panic! Then problem solved. Push hard until you hear it lock or move to set 3.

Step 3: Take an open end 10mm wrench (as you already mentioned) and close the lock by slipping it into the crack between the back of the leather and the hard case. Use a flashlight to help you see. Don't try to out smart yourself like I did and think that lock isn't anywhere near that crack. Trust me it isn't and you aren't actually going for the lock as there is a bolt that comes out of the lock several inches twards the backseat that you are moving.

I'm 99% sure your problem will be solved in one of these steps!