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Does your rear trunk lid stop smoothly when you pop it open?
I was just watching this video and I noticed that the rear trunk lid of this 55 AMG stops really smoothly when Saabkyle04 pops it open. Can anyone share if their trunk does stop like this? Mine was a little hesitant to go up, so I pulled the two springs one notch tighter and it flied open so hard that the whole car moved when it banged into the rubber stops! I have since returned the springs to the first position. Will replacing the rubber stops make the lid stop more gently?
you can adjust the springs in the trunk. All you have to do is remove the carpet panels and play with the spring positions until you have them where you want them.
So tried this myself today, and result is much better but not excellent, i guess they have some kind of suspension in there.. Uploaded video of how it hits when opens
I double-checked EPC, there's only two components to this - the spring and the rubber stop. I guess after more than 15 years the springs have weakened just enough so that set in the first hole they are too weak and the second - too strong. At least that's my experience, from what I saw in JÄnis Smirnovs' video you have it the same way.
I'm going to order new rubber stops and if that doesn't fix it - new springs it is.
Last edited by shadenfroh; May 14, 2017 at 04:46 AM.
Please send me the code of rubber stop, I think the CLK in video have aftermarket strut installed, I guess if u take one from cabrio and find a way to install it, it should work great..I've watched a lot of trunks opening and I don't think New springs will fix this, anyway let me know how your installed new parts work.
Just a note that you can adjust the springs by inserting in the next hole, and you can do this on one side only if you feel that adjusting both is too strong. However be carefull that you do not make the springs too tight, as I found that over time the stress when the trunk pops all the way open, caused my metal hinge to start tearing off the car! (However this took years to happen)
I checked the mbpartsworld.com catalogue and I can't see any difference in the lid construction between coupe and convertible. Surely someone who owns one can chime in?
A1EK, I don't want to adjust one side, because I've seen a lid bent out of shape caused by such setting. Not fun at all :-)
After replacing the rubber bump stops a while ago, I now have a trunk lid that stops smoothly in the upright position. However - the springs have become worn out to the point of being unable to lift the trunk lid in colder temperatures . Instead of moving them up another notch, I will just replace them. Continuing to adjust these worn out things will mean they still apply significant force even when the trunk lid is up.
On the other hand - fresh springs that sit on the lowest setting would be much closer to their resting state by the time the lid is almost open, so they would exert a lot less force - thus allowing the lid to come to a smooth stop at the upright position.
Here's a photo of the rubber bump stop that I removed. I'm not surprised it doesn't provide much in the way of dampening. You can see the updated part below which is much more efficient.
After replacing the rubber bump stops a while ago, I now have a trunk lid that stops smoothly in the upright position. However - the springs have become worn out to the point of being unable to lift the trunk lid in colder temperatures . Instead of moving them up another notch, I will just replace them. Continuing to adjust these worn out things will mean they still apply significant force even when the trunk lid is up.
On the other hand - fresh springs that sit on the lowest setting would be much closer to their resting state by the time the lid is almost open, so they would exert a lot less force - thus allowing the lid to come to a smooth stop at the upright position.
Here's a photo of the rubber bump stop that I removed. I'm not surprised it doesn't provide much in the way of dampening. You can see the updated part below which is much more efficient.
Old.
New.
hello shadenfroh thank you so much for your comment very helpful. I’m searching for the more efficient new rubber bump stop you posted.
Where did you purchase that new rubber bump stop? Could you link me to the website you possibly used? Thank you!
Glad you found this thread useful! I just went to the parts store (not the dealer) and ordered it. Unfortunately I don't remember if I used the part number given above or if they got it from their software. But check this out: https://www.ebay.com/p/1822678508
Some additional details for those interested. I still have not replaced the springs and they have gotten softer yet. So they are now both maxed out at the third notch and really slamming the lid open. I'll replace them soon which will hopefully give me the smooth-as-new opening.
I'm happy for contributing to an obscure issue with an old car that someone else as **** as me finds annoying :-)
After replacing the rubber bump stops a while ago, I now have a trunk lid that stops smoothly in the upright position. However - the springs have become worn out to the point of being unable to lift the trunk lid in colder temperatures . Instead of moving them up another notch, I will just replace them. Continuing to adjust these worn out things will mean they still apply significant force even when the trunk lid is up.
On the other hand - fresh springs that sit on the lowest setting would be much closer to their resting state by the time the lid is almost open, so they would exert a lot less force - thus allowing the lid to come to a smooth stop at the upright position.
Here's a photo of the rubber bump stop that I removed. I'm not surprised it doesn't provide much in the way of dampening. You can see the updated part below which is much more efficient.
Old.
New.
Hi, Shadenfroh. Will you be kind enough to tell me how the rubber bump stops were installed in the trunk? Thank you.
Hi, Shadenfroh. Will you be kind enough to tell me how the rubber bump stops were installed in the trunk? Thank you.
Replacing the rubber stops is very involved as the nuts holding them are located below the rear shelf cover. You have to take the interior B-pillars, C-pillars and rear shelf cover - in that order.
When I replaced the bump stops and springs, I convinced myself that it worked, although it really didn't. So I spent some time on ebay examining the trunk hinges of different mercedes models and I found the attachment point for the spring to be a bit lower and a bit closer to the rear of the car. Basically a bit further along the curve of the hinge. Because of that geometry, the spring is just as stretched with the lid closed, but relieves the tension much more quickly when opening.
So I bought some 2mm metal and fabricated two brackets that I attached with bolts to the factory spring mounting points. With these brackets I was able to attach the spring in a different position, emulating the one on the w211 e class. The result was an s-class smooth opening trunk.
If I had to do it again, I'll pass on the bump stops and springs. It took me just 3 hours to fabricate the metal brackets, and it actually works.
Replacing the rubber stops is very involved as the nuts holding them are located below the rear shelf cover. You have to take the interior B-pillars, C-pillars and rear shelf cover - in that order.
When I replaced the bump stops and springs, I convinced myself that it worked, although it really didn't. So I spent some time on ebay examining the trunk hinges of different mercedes models and I found the attachment point for the spring to be a bit lower and a bit closer to the rear of the car. Basically a bit further along the curve of the hinge. Because of that geometry, the spring is just as stretched with the lid closed, but relieves the tension much more quickly when opening.
So I bought some 2mm metal and fabricated two brackets that I attached with bolts to the factory spring mounting points. With these brackets I was able to attach the spring in a different position, emulating the one on the w211 e class. The result was an s-class smooth opening trunk.
If I had to do it again, I'll pass on the bump stops and springs. It took me just 3 hours to fabricate the metal brackets, and it actually works.
Thanks very much, Shadenfroh. Unfortunately I have to try to reinstall the rubber stops, becasue the old ones fell off after years of wear and tear. I'll have to find out where the B-Pillar and C-Pillar are and give it a try. Thanks for your help.
If you attempt to do this, resarch everything on ebay, look for plenty of photos. Watch videos on youtube about w208 / w202 / w210, they are all similarly constructed. Don't tug too hard, always try put pressure as close to the clip as possible, and don't use your hand as a hammer when assembling - properly position all clips and methodically push in till they click. Don't be like some youtube monkeys. Here's the short story:
Detach the front seatbelts from the shoulder point, and remove the alarm interior sensors above them, if your car has those (careful, brittle plastic).
The B-pillar covers are the ones around the front seatbelts, they are plastic and will be happy to break if you use poorly directed force. Do a search on ebay, inspect the metal clips on the photos to see how and where to pull on them.
The C-pillar covers run from the b-pillars, above and behind the rear windows and end where they meet the rear shelf. They are mostly fiber and are held in only by plastic clips. Some of the plastic clips will break, buy replacements in advance. Undo all the clips and pull forward to detach from the rear shelf. Some photos show those to actually detach by moving backwards - that would save you the trouble of having to remove the B-pillar. My car was not like that and even if it was you'd have no way of knowing until actually removing the C-pillars.
You may need to remove the quarter panels (the ones below the rear windows, where your hand would rest), I've disassembled the interior too many times to remember correctly what I did when.
Unbolt child seat anchor if present frmo the rear shelf, and remove the headrests, - this is a tedious affair, research on youtube.
In the trunk, disconnect third brake light. While you're there, if your car has a rear shade, unbolt it.
At this point you should be able to remove the rear shelf.
As you can see - really half the interior comes out. Good luck! If I were you, I'd try to attack something rubbery to the trunk lid hinges to act as a buffer.
Also, do a google search for "DIY Removing rear Deck , headrests and subs." (including the quote marks) - you will find some interesting reading. I'm not adding a link as there's probably some stupid rule against it.
If you attempt to do this, resarch everything on ebay, look for plenty of photos. Watch videos on youtube about w208 / w202 / w210, they are all similarly constructed. Don't tug too hard, always try put pressure as close to the clip as possible, and don't use your hand as a hammer when assembling - properly position all clips and methodically push in till they click. Don't be like some youtube monkeys. Here's the short story:
Detach the front seatbelts from the shoulder point, and remove the alarm interior sensors above them, if your car has those (careful, brittle plastic).
The B-pillar covers are the ones around the front seatbelts, they are plastic and will be happy to break if you use poorly directed force. Do a search on ebay, inspect the metal clips on the photos to see how and where to pull on them.
The C-pillar covers run from the b-pillars, above and behind the rear windows and end where they meet the rear shelf. They are mostly fiber and are held in only by plastic clips. Some of the plastic clips will break, buy replacements in advance. Undo all the clips and pull forward to detach from the rear shelf. Some photos show those to actually detach by moving backwards - that would save you the trouble of having to remove the B-pillar. My car was not like that and even if it was you'd have no way of knowing until actually removing the C-pillars.
You may need to remove the quarter panels (the ones below the rear windows, where your hand would rest), I've disassembled the interior too many times to remember correctly what I did when.
Unbolt child seat anchor if present frmo the rear shelf, and remove the headrests, - this is a tedious affair, research on youtube.
In the trunk, disconnect third brake light. While you're there, if your car has a rear shade, unbolt it.
At this point you should be able to remove the rear shelf.
As you can see - really half the interior comes out. Good luck! If I were you, I'd try to attack something rubbery to the trunk lid hinges to act as a buffer.
Also, do a google search for "DIY Removing rear Deck , headrests and subs." (including the quote marks) - you will find some interesting reading. I'm not adding a link as there's probably some stupid rule against it.
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