We changed the oil in the 99 CLK430 the old fashioned way. It was really easy after we got the right tool to remove the oil filter.

You do have to remove the plastic skidplate, but I've always been ok with that in the sense that it's a chance to get under the car and look for road gashes or new leaks, etc.

Anyhow, the oil pan is easy to get to. It's pretty close to the front of the car, and it IS the lowest point on the engine, as well it should be. The drain plug was not magnetized and the replacement Mann filter did not come with a new crush washer.

I jacked the car, removed the drain plug and lowered the car back to level and let it drain for 10 minutes or so. Jacked it back up, wiped the drain and drain plug, swapped the filter, and filled with oil.

Questions:

1. The oil pan is the lowest part of the engine, and I did level the car back off for draining. I have a hard time believing that the topsider could do a better job than the old fashioned method. As far as ease, to each their own, jacking a car and removing a drain plug is not that big a deal. Am I missing something regarding the topsider? You just slip the hose down the dipstick, but I don't see how the hose can get any lower than the drain plug anyhow.

2. Does a filter from the dealer come with a copper/brass crush washer for the drain plug?

 

The dipstick tube actually sits in the lowest part of the pan. I have read that using the topside extraction method will actually get more oil out (not by much though), than draining alone will.

 

I've been changing oil the *old fashioned way* for more than 40 years but decided I was getting too old to be crawling around on the garage floor.

I recently bought a Topsider and it works fine. I'm sure it gets out as much or more of the oil as the normal drain.

It takes a bit longer to change oil but it's much easier. While the oil is being extracted, I change the filter, lube the throttle linkage, clean the air cleaner, etc.

A big advantage to the Topsider is that it's a portable container which makes it easy to dispose of the oil.

 

I also change my oil the old fashion way and the filter from the dealer does not "come with" the washer but they advise you to buy it it with the filter. I am thinking about getting a topsider if it really is that good.

 

I use 15W-50 Mobil 1 which is like glue so the oil needs to be fairly warm to speed up the extraction.

I suppose that if you used 0W-40 Mobil 1 it would work better.

 

I buy the 5 quart 15w-50 and 5w-30 and mix them 50/50. I guess this is 10w-40.

The 0w-40 is not available in 5 quart jugs (that I've ever seen) and it's hard to find even in individual quarts.

 

You can get Mobil 1 0w-40 here:

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/parkplac...1trismoto.html


Most auto stores around me (Pep Boys, Autozone, etc) carry it now as well.

 

Autozone and Murrays autoshops carry 0w40. I think I bought some from Targets as well. Most of the time, it's $4.99/qt.

I've stored up enough for 3 oil changes (but have 4 Fram filters at $13 each).

 

I use Mobil1 0W40 and I got it from Advanced Auto (formerly known as Trak Auto). I think it's a east coast company.

 

Both Mercedes and Porsche have said to use 15W-50 Mobil 1 if you can't get 0W-40.

For your Info, the 30 weight Mobil 1 viscosities are no longer true synthetics (even though Mobil calls them that). They are made with a petroleum base and Mercedes no longer approves of them.

Don't mix viscosities.

 

The 50 is too thick for my S52 M engine which calls for 5w-30. I believe the 430 engine calls for 30 weight as well. I did not actually check it, but my owner friend said that was what was in the owner's manual.

A few years ago, Mobil 1 was pushing this stuff called "Tri-Syn" or something. I did not trust that stuff and it was not full synth, but the 30 and 50 weight I'm mixing are both "Super Syn" which is a true synth.

I'll do a little research, but until I see some proof otherwise, Super Syn is full synth as far as I know.

I have not even seen "Tri-Syn" in a while.

====

Here's like the second link I found off Google:

http://www.shell.ca/code/motoring/en...etic_oils.html

Says you can even mix synth and dino.

====

From the Mobil 1 FAQ:

Q: Can different synthetic motor oils be mixed together?

A: Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ is fully compatible with conventional motor oils, semi-synthetic motor oils and other synthetic motor oils, should it be necessary to mix them. But the superior performance of Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ will be reduced by diluting it.

I'm mixing 2 viscosities of Super Syn.

 

When you mix oil, you mix additive packages. Let the oil companies mix it for you.

I don't care what oil you use but I'm not lying about the 30 weight Mobil 1 oils. They no longer meet Mercedes 229.1 specifications so Mercedes have told their dealers not to use it. You will also find that when Mobil 1 30 weight oils were true synthetics, Mercedes had their approval on the container. Not any more.

It's a long story but Castrol begin making highly refined petroleum based oils and calling them true synthetics. Mobil sued them but the courts said they could call them anything they wanted. The Oil Institute said the same thing.

Since Castrol now had oil much cheaper to produce but didn't lower the price, they were making more profit. In order to compete, Mobil started doing the same thing with their most popular viscosities (the so-called economy oils). In other words, Mobil switched from a Type 4 PAQ base to a Type 3 petroleum base.

Go here and if you scan down you'll see that the three 30 weight Mobil 1 oils aren't approved by MB.

http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html

Mobil 1 0W-40 and 15W-50 oils are still true PAQ based synthetics.

 

touché

That was some tedious reading...

I knew about the Castrol controversy and Tri-Syn was Mobil's initial response to that whole mess.
So, legally, they can mask the Castrol era "blend" under the phrase "high-performance fluids?"

The sticking point is that 5w-30 does not meet ACEA A3. The 5w-30, 0w-40 and 15w-50 all meet API SL and SJ.

Mobil hypes the 0w-40 as an energy saving oil as well as the 5w-30.

To make matters even worse, here is what came up after entering a 2000 CLK430 in the "Which Oil for my Car" thing on Mobil's website:


As always, getting solid, decipherable info on oil is just a thin hair away from witchcraft.

 

What about Redline oil? Does anyone use it?
I have heard that Mobil 1 is not totally synthetic oil, that it has a few dinosaurs in it.
I used the Redline in my C5 Corvette because of this controversy.
I just changed the oil in the 1999 CLK320 and asked the MB dealer to put the Redline in the car. He did and mentioned nothing about not using it.

Ed

 

Read my post above. Mobil 1 0W-40 and 15W-50 are Type 4 PAQ based true synthetics. The 30 weight Mobil 1 oils use a Type 3 base.

Redline is a Type 5 Ester-based synthetic which (at least on paper) is better than most other true synthetics. Ester-based synthetics are the only ones that will stand the heat of jet engines.

I'll tell you this. If I owned a really expensive engine like the MB or BMW V12's, I'd sure as h*ll use Redline.

 

Question,
Does Mobil One have to be (European Car Formula) or will regular Mobil One (New Car Formula) do ??
Jkw

 

5w-30 is New Car Formula

0w-40 is European Car Formula