CLK-Class (W208) 1998-2002: CLK 200, CLK 230K, CLK 320, CLK 430 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

Passenger window will not close fully

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Old Aug 22, 2020 | 10:17 AM
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mercerdes clk320 convertible
Passenger window will not close fully

Hi All
This problem is driving me mad, my passenger window will not close fully it powers up and then drops 2-3 inches even if I hold the button to close it still drops. In addition the one touch up/down does not work. I have tried disconnecting the power for a while, fitted a new regualator and a new door control unit still the same. Even with the regulator removed from the door but still connected to the electrics to eliminate any fould window runners you operate the up button the motor spins and as soon as you let go the motor spins back 2-3 revolutions.
When I open the roof the window go down fine automatically. Currently I have had to remove the regulator so I can manually pull the window closed.

Any help apreciated
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Old Aug 23, 2020 | 01:45 PM
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This happened to me when battery is disconnected. There is a method to close in that case.

Hold window button close button all the way, hold closed for like 10 seconds once fully shut.
hold window open button all the way, hold button in open position for 10 seconds once fully open.
Hold window button close button. Hold closed for 10 seconds once fully closed.

That is the method I found a video for and used after i disconnected the battery and had the same issue. I hope it helps.
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Old Aug 23, 2020 | 01:58 PM
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This dosent work as in in post when I hold the button to shut the window still open 2-3 inches, I have tried every reset possible none of them solve this issue
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Old Aug 23, 2020 | 03:11 PM
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Here's a link that you'll find of interest.

Something I didn't stress enough in that thread, is that whenever you replace the door control module, it must be programmed (e.g. version coded) to your specific vehicle.

The control module is used in various MB models (e.g. CLK , E, C class) where the window operation and/or convenience features are quite different or added during production.

As examples, even the window operation of the CLK coupe vs. cabriolet are totally different as well as those of the earlier vs. later production cabriolets.
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Old Aug 23, 2020 | 05:12 PM
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Interesting so I found my door close switch is a bit intermittant on the passenger side, however now all the windows plus door mirriors plus roof plus role bar have all stopped working. !!!!!
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Old Aug 23, 2020 | 07:19 PM
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The culprit in the link I referred you to, was a malfunctioning door close switch.

The power roof can only be opened or closed when all of the windows are open.

The document included in post #7, explains how the cabriolet's power window system works. Note that the N52 power roof controller operates the rear windows and window system coordination is via the CANBus. If the door control module programing is not correct theCANBus digital messing and/or voltage encoding will not be correct and cause other issues in addition to the window operation (e.g. mirror adjustments, power seat / memory etc.).

If you still have the old door control module, try reinstalling it, as it may not have been faulty and will eliminate the need for version coding.

Then retry the window reset procedure, with the doors and the roof closed.

Last edited by Serndipity; Aug 23, 2020 at 07:35 PM.
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 04:26 AM
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Strange as the window problem has been for a week now and as you have said this may be down to the door close switch which sounds feasable, however all the other window and roof worked before so what has changed now ?
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Serndipity
The culprit in the link I referred you to, was a malfunctioning door close switch.

The power roof can only be opened or closed when all of the windows are open.

The document included in post #7, explains how the cabriolet's power window system works. Note that the N52 power roof controller operates the rear windows and window system coordination is via the CANBus. If the door control module programing is not correct theCANBus digital messing and/or voltage encoding will not be correct and cause other issues in addition to the window operation (e.g. mirror adjustments, power seat / memory etc.).

If you still have the old door control module, try reinstalling it, as it may not have been faulty and will eliminate the need for version coding.

Then retry the window reset procedure, with the doors and the roof closed.
So I left the battery disconnected overnight reconnected this morning and refitted the orignal door control module, ensured the door close switch was made and the windows all worked OK ---- Next question how do you removed the door close switch I prized the panel off behind the switch but it looks like no access from behind ?
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 08:19 AM
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Update - Left as above overnight after every thing was working, now as before none of the windows/roof/door mirrors work and the roof button is permantly illuminated.....the interior light is going out so I know the door close switch is working. what causes this intermittant fault ?
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 09:02 AM
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As shown in the above picture, the reason you could not pry out the door jam switch, is that when it was installed, there are tabs (shown in red circle) that compress while being inserted and then expand when the switch is fully fitted into the B pillar.

To remove the switch, you could have to again compress the tabs, which likely requires removal of interior panel.

The switch is actuated when door closure fully pushes the plunger sufficiently inward.

Perhaps some adjustment of the door lock and/or latch would correct the intermittent switch operation.

As example the door lock assembly has a plastic ornamental cover molding, where the lower section appears to make connect with the switch's plunger when the door is closed (you'll have to verify this). If so, loosing the screw that fashions the molding or inserting a thin shim behind the molding will provide a positive switch actualization.

The reason your S84 center console roof operating switch is illuminated is described in the below document.


Last edited by Serndipity; Aug 25, 2020 at 09:09 AM.
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 09:26 AM
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When soft top operation control module or the fuse for circuit 30 is defective - is this fuse 30 or is this the fuse the hydraulic pimp in the boot ?
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 11:08 AM
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The soft top/roll bar controller is fused in 5 places. The F4 fuse box located in the boot has 4 fuses, for each window motor, the pump motor (the 40 amp fuse in position 13) and circuit 30 (the 15 amp fuse in position 11), while the 5th fuse is in the engines bay F1 fuse box.

However, at this time, I believe you're taking the suggested fault possibilities to literally.

Specifically, when opening or closing the roof, the soft-top/RB control module cyclically evaluates the actualization's of a dozen plus limit switches (e.g. the controller will not proceed if it sees an improperly triggered switch).

While dealing with your window issue, you also mentioned that your power roof and roll bar were misbehaving.

My suggestion would be to first re-synchronize all of the limit switches to where the controller needs them to be, as follows:

1. Using the roll bar switch on your dash board, fully lower the roll bar (e.g. by design, the power roof will not operate if the controller does not see the roll bar as being fully lowered).

If this does not restore power roof operation.

2. Then manually open and close the roof, which should manually re-synchronize the roof's position/limit switches properly. You'll find the detailed instructions on how to manually close the roof, in the 'practical hints' section of your owner's manual (e.g. the reverse order will manually open the roof).
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 12:15 PM
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So what I have done is, remove the battery and give it a good charge to ensure no low voltage issues, re-fitted turned key to position 2 roof switch no longer illuminated thus disproving any fuses were blown, re-synced windows started car and took for a quick spin to clear ABS warning. Parked up then opened and closed the the roof all worked fine. I will leave until tomorrow now and see if the issue returns ?
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 02:27 PM
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Great and congratulations...........I believe you're got everything sorted out and squared away now.

The control modules are designed to operate from 11 minimum to 14 volts maximum and circuit 30 voltages are always present (e.g. irregardless of the position of the ignition key).

If the circuit 30 voltage dropped lower than 11 volts, which may have occurred due to a number of reasons (e.g. an older weak battery, was already low on charge from earlier repair efforts or due to the high current draw from simultaneously lowering all 4 window motors at the beginning of power roof operation), the soft top controller detected a low voltage fault and illuminated the operating switch, when it wasn't being pressed. After you removed the vehicle battery to put a full charge on it, when the controller rebooted, its 'built in self test capability' saw the low voltage condition was no longer present.

When charging the vehicle battery, some chargers can apply to high a voltage, which can damage the sensitive controller electronics. It's always advisable to disconnect the negative wire from the battery terminal when charging (e.g. without the vehicle ground, this will electrically isolate the battery from the vehicle and is a lot easier than removing the entire battery).
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 09:36 AM
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So update, still having this issue intermittantly, every now and then the roof button will stay iluminated and windows , roof and door mirriors will not work. Disconnect battery for 2 mins and then all works again fine untill a few day later then the same happens again, its getting annoying now.
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Old Sep 27, 2020 | 10:17 AM
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So I have worked out rsther then disconnect the battery which causes ABS faults and stops the clock I can just turn of the key remove fuses 11, 13 in the boot and replace. These reset the roof control module. I have read in another forum someone who ran a relay from a switched live so the bosx gets reset every time the key is removed but this requires run a cable form the engine bay back the the boot. Does anyone else have any ideas ?
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