rob8

I want to replace the ESL motor on my 2003 CLK 320 (it's a convertible so it was still a W208 that year).It is failing and sure to leave me stranded soon. I see them all over Amazon and Ebay, and they all seem to be the same motor. Trouble is the descriptions say they fit W204, W207 and W212, E series and C series, such as C180, C200, E200, E260, E300, E350, GLK300, GLK350. Never a 208 mentioned. I don't care about the price since they are all cheap, it's just I'd hate to do all the work only to find it doesn't fit. So frustrating.

Rob

rob8

OK after some research on other forums I found that the W208 uses the ESL type 1. All the instructions and ads for the motors seem to be for the newer type 2. I'll take a chance and hope the motor fits both. I'll post my results.....hopefully it will be of some help to someone with this issue

Serndipity

Have you considered that, your key and EIS must pass an authorization test before the ESL is released?

Have you tried your spare or emergency key?

See below document explaining how the W208/A208 Drive Authorization System works and this thread .

rob8

It does work, but it sometimes struggles or gets stuck when locking/unlocking.....most of what I have read points to the motor wearing out....these are both keys I got when I bought the car.

rob8

FYI to anyone with this issue. The W208 ESL motor is completely different from the ones commonly available on Amazon and Ebay: Totally different drive gears too. The esl 2 has a worm gear whereas the esl 1 has a spur type gear. I think I'll go with an emulator. I just wish I could find a video/tutorial on how to remove this lock before I go tearing into it. No luck yet..

rob8

Some progress! Hopefully I can add to the very little info about the ESL type 1, most of which seems contradictory. Luckily i managed to get the the lock to go into the unlocked position by removing and inserting the key repeatedly. Then I disconnected the battery. The whole thing is held in by 1 bolt which does the actual locking, with a 10mm nut on the end. After removing the driver's side panel under the dash it is accessible...sort of. There is next to no room to work and it is impossible to actually see the nut from underneath as it is in top of the ESL, so I had to do it by "feel". Using a 1/4 inch drive stubby ratchet with a flex head and a shallow 10mm socket I removed the nut (2 or 3 ratchet clicks at a time...there is NO clearance!). No steering wheel or instrument cluster removal needed. I actually removed the cluster hoping to reach the nut but no luck....it has to all be done from underneath. Next step is to install the emulator in the socket. Here are some pictures. I will post further.

Lock and bolt


socket

rob8

Problem solved. I installed an emulator I got from eBay, plugged it into the connector for the ESL and secured it under the dash with a piece of Velcro. Car started right up. NO PROGRAMMING was needed...plug and play. Just stay away from the really cheap ones with 3 wires sticking out...they don't work, at least not on my car despite claims otherwise. The one I used had built in sockets for multiple models and is said to work with the following: W202,203,208,209.210,211,639,906. The listing specifically stated no programming was required, and it works perfectly.
Hopefully my thread can add to the scarce info on the ESL1 problem and save someone else with this miserable problem from getting stranded.
Rob

Patricia25

What a pain!! Thanks for adding this information about how you solved this unusual problem!