Does this sound correct?
Does this sound accurate?
The alignment won't change from 17 to 19, so put your stocks back on..... besides you don't want the wrench monkeys to f-up your 19's do you?
Does this sound accurate?

additionally, if you've lowered your car and you are trying to get an alignment done to reduce the camber... don't waste your money. the CLK does not have adjustable camber arms.... if you want to fix negative camber, you'll need to buy a camber kit ($7-800), then get it aligned...
If your car isn't tracking to one side or the other, then, just leave good enough alone.
additionally, if you've lowered your car and you are trying to get an alignment done to reduce the camber... don't waste your money. the CLK does not have adjustable camber arms.... if you want to fix negative camber, you'll need to buy a camber kit ($7-800), then get it aligned...
If your car isn't tracking to one side or the other, then, just leave good enough alone.
I'm lowered on H&R springs and Blistein shocks with 18 inch rims. The rear on the CLK isn't fully adjustable (camber wise) unless you take it to a competent alignment shop..READ: Competent as in set up for race cars and seriously tuned cars.
Since none of those shops are a days drive from me, I opted for the K-Mac rear camber kit. About $300+ on their website or if you get lucky, in the classifieds for cheaper. That did the trick and made my rear wheels track near perfect.
Fronts can be adjusted, but depending on how low you go (I have #1 pads), I needed $10 camber bolts at the dealer. Also, with H&R springs and #1 pads, the front was too low for ANY shop to do, so the removal of the front bumper was necessary so the lasers could meet up.
Now, contrary to what you have heard, anytime you upgrade suspension, change the geometry of the suspension, mount new wheels [b]or[/]tires, you must/should get an alignment if you want even tire wear.
That being said, aligning the car with 17's and then putting 19's back on is almost pointless. Although the overall diameter is supposed remain maintained, it usually never does. It will get you pointed in the right direction, but certain aspects of the full alignment like camber could be slightly off.
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However, doing an alignment could also fix incorrect caster & feathering, etc...
Just don't expect an alignment to fix your car's negative camber...
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I think most of you guys don't have any curvy roads nearby
here in the mountains of WNC we drive to drive not to pimp hahaha
After I lowered my CLK i think the camber was like 1.5 and 1, but I'm not sure I'd have to check the alignment print out to be sure.
However, doing an alignment could also fix incorrect caster & feathering, etc...
Just don't expect an alignment to fix your car's negative camber...
I think most of you guys don't have any curvy roads nearby
here in the mountains of WNC we drive to drive not to pimp hahaha
After I lowered my CLK i think the camber was like 1.5 and 1, but I'm not sure I'd have to check the alignment print out to be sure.
So unless you track your car or AutoX it, negative camber is NOT worth it....unless you have money and time to burn.
To each his own hahaha
only thing a lowered suspension usually effects is the camber
I think most of you guys don't have any curvy roads nearby
here in the mountains of WNC we drive to drive not to pimp hahaha
After I lowered my CLK i think the camber was like 1.5 and 1, but I'm not sure I'd have to check the alignment print out to be sure.
I estimate his total drop to be about 1.8" or so, which is quite a bit... My brabus kit & pads lowered my car 2" total, and that gave me about -2.5 degrees of negative camber... no crash/camber bolt in the world can fix that camber...
so, yes, a "little" negative camber can help cornering, but, anything this extreme will just eat away at your inside sidewalls/tread
I'm not sure what he meant, but he was indicating that it is possible.
Eitherway, you're right on....when you go low, there are always problems. But you gotta pay to play.




