Finished my radio install.
This is the early style :

And this is the later style :

I also couldn't source any of the adapters through local shops and had to go through e-bay to buy mine. Got it for £20 (about $30ish)
with that, if you are not trying to upgrade your speakers you wil l need something like the oem2
You only need the SWI-PS for your headunit and SWI-CAN2 for the car side. These are just for power/lighting and steering wheel controls.
Pac do not supply a convertor box to feed the input on the HK amp in your car. I don't know of anywhere that does, hence why most people rip it out completely and run their own amps/speakers.
Last edited by v12; Mar 10, 2010 at 06:50 AM.
but csxian you can use this for your HU. i believe its the same for urs as the newer HU on the 203. http://www.pioneer.eu/eur/products/2...133/index.html
i dont know if you can find it anymore.
here is the link for the 131 which is for the old hu. its plug and play for the HU.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PIONE...fAudioQ5fVideo
as i have been reading. v12, wouldnt it be easier for him to use the ca-r-pi 133 for his HU since its going to be pnp and he wont needing any adapters for his amp?
- PAC SWI-PS and SWI-CAN2 (or maybe another module such as OEM2?)
- Ca.r.pi 133
Price wise, two PAC modules are still cheaper than Pioneer and I still want to have the bluetooth functioning properly from the steering wheel.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
i didnt like all the wires from pac and at the time, the blue tooth thing wasnt around for my z110bt. so i just picked the ca.r.pi for ease of use. i dont mind having to touch buttons on my screen for bluetooth or other programmable options.
i wanted something pnp. and the ca.r.pi is usually used in europe but i see a lot of the guys from the C class use them. but i will agree that pac has more functionality. i think both cost around the same. pac is like 60 a piece and ca.r.pi is like 145.
Mind to explain more by "the bluetooth wasn't around for my z110bt"? The HU comes with built-in bluetooth, correct?
im sorry. i misread your post. but i meant that PAC upgraded their model right after i bought the ca.r.pi parts. it had the capability of voice recognition or something of the sort thats new with their model.
if you get PAC product, i believe you can prgram whatever you want to your steering wheel where as the ca.r.pi has only (for mine) volume and track control. not sure about the 133 model being able to control anything different. so i think if you want full steering wheel control again. pac is for you. its pretty simple to program. i just didnt want to bother with the wiring.
and yes bluetooth is built in. very nice feature but mic sucks. apparently theres this static thats there. sounds like road noise. but dunno how to fix it. i mean ppl can still hear you and you can hear them just fine. so i wouldnt worry about that too much unless you do a lot of business calling on the road.
But if you do want the extra functionality, the pac is the way to go.
Bheng, where have you positioned your mic? I put mine just to the right of the sun visor and it works great with most callers...
i am also a member at the avic site. there is a member there with a C class as well with the same problem with the z110bt unit. weird.
keep in mind, i didnt have trouble til the very end. and it was just tapping into wires. i dont have pics but i can try to guide your verbally. hope that helps.
also if you decide to do this yourself,you will need to get a wire diagram of your wires for your car.
pac should have a generic model for our cars. and you can get the wiring diagram from your dealer or service assistant.
the amps are going to cost more than 200 alone. wires and cap are about 100. dynamat is going to run you up the ***. you need to plan out if your going to want to run new speakers and an amp. or add another amp with sub.
if your going for basics, and really love music, i would get some focals and a really nice amp. but i think thats a bit higher end. i put on the other forum. i run JL audio C2 components and coaxials. and wired that to my amp and then amp to HU.
and if you get a new amp, your looking at getting new speakers. you can do without the sub for now. and add it later. but be prepared to empty out your wallet for an audio set up.
i wouldnt bother getting a 5 channel. chances are you wont really notice the center speaker missing. i would rather spend that extra money saved on better set of speakers or something






