Radio install was a complete success! BIG DIFFERENCE in sound quality and volume (and I haven't even tuned it yet), I'm extremely happy with the results (this is now my favorite CLK accessory......My new SprintBooster is second)! I swapped my OEM Bose System (Non-Navigation, 8 Speaker, 6 Disk CD changer) for a Kenwood 7” DVD Monitor with 3G iPhone integration (I can view movies, listen to music, etc. directly from my iPhone), USB connection, BlueTooth integration (iPhone compatible with phone book download capability), Navigation (with 2009 maps), new door speakers, 12” subwoofer, and 2 Amps.

The installation was strait forward and if you have ever installed an aftermarket radio before, this install will be no different (but if you have not, I encourage you to go to a professional).

If you do decide to do it yourself and need some questions answered, post the question here on Mbworld.org (W209 forum) and I'll try to answer whenever I can (I'm by no means a car audio expert, this was my second ever radio installation; but I can answer CLK specific questions like wiring and such). The Mbworld.org community has been very helpful to me and I would be honored in sharing my knowledge and lessons learned with everyone (I can at least give better answers than “take it to a professional”).

Here are a few pics of the finished product as well as some wiring pictures that should come in handy:

1.The Installed Radio.
2.My Trunk with the 2 Amps and Subwoofer
3.The Bose speaker (crap) on the left and the new speaker on the right.
4.Where I ran the 4 gauge wire from the battery area (located to the left of the battery)
5.4 gauge wire (Big Red Wire) inside the passenger compartment
6.Wiring harness (Blue) on the passenger side, notice the two sets of Green/GreenBrown wires; they share a common wire from the Bose (crap) amp, then split here to the front woofer and tweeter. The same thing happens on the driver's side.

 

hey looks great ive heard all the wires on the bose system were fiber optic did you hve to change all the wiring when you were changing the speakers ?? do you still have working steering wheel controls ?

 

Great install, will definitely be helpful for other members

 

very nice and i love the MB logo on the screen

 

The Bose harness does have a small fiber optic line, but the bigger line was the main harness that contained the constant 12V, Ground, and all the speaker wires. I did use most of the Bose harness to wire the speakers. I tapped the wires in the trunk to get to the rear door speakers; but I had to run wires to the Blue Harness in picture 6 and tap it there in order to get to the front woofer and tweeter.

I did lose the steering wheel control, but I could have added it in (it was a option with the radio). But I didn't want to go through the hassle of adding this part of the component. Plus, I never really used the steering wheel control to begin with.

Thanks Coin! When I was researching this project, I couldn't find that much information on wire colors, or how to run wires, etc. But if the information was out there, I know more of our members would be confident enough to do it themselves.

Thanks a lot Flame, the logo is one of my favorite details too.

 

how do you turn on your heated seat when the screen is blocking the buttons?

 

Ha, Ha! Yeah, that was one of the draw backs for using the flip-out style radio. But I could always retract the screen or hit the heat button when I turn the car on (before the screen flips out). This style does have it's advantages (verses Double DIN style):

1. The view angle is higher so it's closer to eye level.
2. The screen retracts when the car turns off so its a theft deterrent (it looks like a simple CD player verses a aftermarket monitor).
3. I get to keep the pocket underneath the radio

 

Good job !

nice,

better than the stock one

 

LOOKS GREAT!!!! want to come over and help me do mine?? if not can you make a DIY

 

Ha, Ha! Thanks guys. I was thinking about doing a DIY, but since everyone's system would be different, what would I put in it (there wouldn't be any commonality between systems)?

 

Great Job! I've got all of my components except the HU. I've been going back and forth on features, costs, and quality of the various manufactures. But all I was considering was double din units. Now, after seeing your setup, I may start considering the flip-out route.

I'm glad it worked out for you. As folks change out there systems, it would be great to keep contributing their experiences on this forum....

 

2MCHCAR,

Where did u get your Single DIN Kit? Do they have Double DIN Kit where you bought it ? any info. on that ?

Thanks,

Andy

 

Thanks! Whichever radio you decide on, I know you'll like it better than the factory unit!

As far as the dash kit, I just bought it on Amazon.com and looked for the best price. Here is the part number for the Double DIN kit:
SCOSCHE MZ2340B - Just remove the modular pocket it comes with for the Double DIN install, there are screws holes on the side to secure the radio.

And Single DIN I got:
Metra 99-8710 - You can't remove this pocket, but It looks factory.

If any of you guys have more install questions, let me know

 

dude i wish ya around here so you can show me lol Thanks for the part.

Andy

 

sorry to bring up a dead thread. but i was just wondering, 2MCHAR, but where is the amp located in the CLK and how easy did you think it was to do the installation, cuz i am kind of a newb in the field and i would to do it myself.

 

yea ask him bheng .

Andy

 

It depends on the type of radio you have. If its the Bose radio, then it's located in the trunk, passenger side, just remove the trunk lining and it's the black box with a huge wiring harness (Fiber optic cable too) attached to it. If it's not a Bose, then the head unit powers the speakers.

I am by no means a professional installer. As I stated before, this was only the second installation I have ever done. I researched for 4 months, bought the MB shop manual, and prefabricated several parts (such as the sub-box) before I attempted the install. Working by myself, it took me 60 hours to be completely done with the install. It would have been much faster if I knew what I know now (experience); but I found information is scarce on CLK installs, Crutchfield doesn't even have any info on CLKs. That's why I offer to answer install questions on the forums.

 

You did a great job there buddy ...very good man...

Andy

 

did you need to dynomat the car as well?

I have BOSE. So if i get a new HU, a double din aftermarket one, will i need to rewire all the speakers to the the new HU or will i need to purchase a new amp to rewire the speakers to that and from that to the HU? did you find that taking out the front and rear seats help with the install?

sorry for all the questions...ima nub at this and this will be my first attempt. haha.

and sorry 2MCHAR. haha im going to have a lot of questions during my attempt to install -_-

oh and btw. you set up looks clean. . . now only if mine will look as clean lol

 

Hi Bheng,

I will try to answer your questions in order:

1. This depends on the system you are running. If you are NOT going to run any external amps AND your radio does NOT have a hide-away unit that also power the speakers; then yes, you will have to rewire the speakers to the headunit itself. If you do run an external amp, then the easiest place to put the amp is in the trunk, and you can run your speaker wires there (like I did).

2. I did find removing the front and rear seats (passenger side) very helpful; in fact I think it's a must!

3. Thanks, I really like how everything came out clean; and don't worry, I don't mind answering audio questions.

 

how did you remove the seats (front and rear)? you just wired everything through the passenger side, correct?

Thanks
Brian

 

plus i was thinking that i can get 4 channel amp for the speakers but keep the stock speakers. when the speakers go out, then i'll consider replacing them.
what do you think of that. because i think it would be a hassle to rewire the speakers to the new HU.

did you dyno the entire car or just the trunk for the sub?

 

bheng,

DONT forget to take some pics while you install it from the beginning to the end lol

Andy

 

The input signal for a Bose amplifier is a balanced, differential signal interconnection. Most aftermarket audio systems use an unbalanced connection. I've heard that a Bose amp will accept an unbalanced signal, but it won't sound as good (although some same they can't hear the difference). I kept the Bose amp and used a PAC converter box that reads the unbalanced input and produces balanced output. The PAC box was $30.

Also, PAC makes converter boxes to keep your OEM steering wheel controls. I used those as well.

With a wiring harness adapter, factory wires don't have to be spliced - it's all plug and play. Well, let me qualify that - I bought a head unit that reads solid state memory. That made the CD changer obsolete. Since the CD changer was the only audio component that needed the fiber connection, I left it unplugged. Your W209 may be different than my W208, so you'll want to research any converter before you buy.

Best wishes on the project

 

ok i will research all that. i am planning to lose the cd player anyway in place for an iPod adapter. however, did you just google the pac converter box. is there a specific name?