CLK-Class (W209) 2003 on: CLK 270 CDI, CLK 200K, CLK 200 CGI, CLK 240, CLK 320, CLK 350, CLK 500, CLK 550 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

lowering the car

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Old Mar 28, 2010 | 10:47 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by CLK Masters
I did it a few years ago. it was around 200 for the cutout and the electric flange. then i spent around 130 for the digital switch for the cutout. and as far as putting it in the car. my buddies and I did that, I have a friend with a lift, and I know how to weld.

so about $375 in the end.

http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/QTEC/index.php
I like that.

Andy
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Old Mar 29, 2010 | 03:22 PM
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If you really want to change your own suspension... Here's a DIY video from myMBonline.com for the W203 which has the same chassis.

http://mymbonline.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2753
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 08:40 PM
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Thought I'd share some pics after the springs & shocks installed.



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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 11:10 PM
  #29  
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Just wondering, are you guys only changing the springs to lower the car? What about other components? like shocks? Wouldn't it be bad for the car if we just change the springs to lower the car?

Edit: I take my question back. haha.

Last edited by guofan; Apr 25, 2010 at 12:47 AM. Reason: mistake
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 12:00 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ts350z
Thought I'd share some pics after the springs & shocks installed.





Hmmmmmmmm.........why is your sitting so high? Mine with Eibach springs and Bilstein strut and about 1 finger gap.
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 12:50 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by guofan
Just wondering, are you guys only changing the springs to lower the car? What about other components? like shocks? Wouldn't it be bad for the car if we just change the springs to lower the car?
if the lowering is more than 1.5" that is generally the accepted differential
afterwhich lowering shocks should be swapped in. if less than, that is (again,
generally) the acceptable travel which can be handled with stock shocks.

separately, however, there may still be camber issues after any lowering so
one should be mindful of uneven tire wear (visual indicator) or just have a
quality, 4 post alignment performed, ie none of that Firestone et al stuff.
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 07:07 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Klinh;
Hmmmmmmmm.........why is your sitting so high? Mine with Eibach springs and Bilstein strut and about 1 finger gap.


The springs still have to settle. When I first installed the H&R springs I had a 2 finger gap and after a month or two it went down to 1.
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by ts350z
Thought I'd share some pics after the springs & shocks installed.





Looking real good! Have any pics of the rear? What size are you tires? Runinng spacers? Sorry for all the questions I'm installing the same wheels soon and want to know how others setup.
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 12:59 PM
  #34  
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I have H&R springs with Koni shocks. It should be about 1.3"~1.6" lower than stock. I guess it'll take some time to sit in the springs.

The wheels are 19"x8.5" & 19"x9.5" 35mm offset with HANGKOOK V12 tires 235/35/19 & 265/30/19. I have 3mm spacer in the rear. No rubbing or anything. The ride is great with these tires so as the grib. I got the good bargain w/ the tires. Paid $630 for the tires plus labor at the local Discount Tire.
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 01:34 PM
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I am installing the same wheels and tires soon. I think the H&R springs lower 1.4" in the rear. If you get a chance I would like to see some pics of the rear. Do you know what # pads your on?
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ts350z
I have H&R springs with Koni shocks. It should be about 1.3"~1.6" lower than stock. I guess it'll take some time to sit in the springs.

The wheels are 19"x8.5" & 19"x9.5" 35mm offset with HANGKOOK V12 tires 235/35/19 & 265/30/19. I have 3mm spacer in the rear. No rubbing or anything. The ride is great with these tires so as the grib. I got the good bargain w/ the tires. Paid $630 for the tires plus labor at the local Discount Tire.


3mm in the rear? You meant 3mm in the front, right? With you wheels sizes, offset and tires, I don't see you should have any problems in the rear excepted for the front brake caliper rubbing your wheels.
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 03:58 PM
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The front caliper does look like it's close to the rim. Ts350z, any idea how much room you have between caliper and rim?
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 01:00 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by dynomite05
The front caliper does look like it's close to the rim. Ts350z, any idea how much room you have between caliper and rim?
I do not have the "FRONT" spacer, I don't have the clearance issue with the front. The wheel spoke barely clear with the brake caliper, I can slide "2 piece" of paper between them. So far I've driven over 1000 miles on it, no problem at all.

Only reason I am putting the wheel spacer in the rear is because to give the car more flush look in the rear. I just put the "5mm" wheel spacer on today, drove it and no rubbing at all. I might try to go 10mm spacer next.

I need to raise the rear a little bit higher, still using the OEM 2dot spring seats. Thinking about raise it maybe .5"...., it seeems little bit to low right now.

I am not sure why the front sits so high, but my original front wheel gap was about "4 fingers", now is down to 1.5 finger. It's okay I guess, needs time to settle in. We'll see what happen!





Last edited by ts350z; Apr 26, 2010 at 01:03 AM.
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Old May 3, 2010 | 11:32 AM
  #39  
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I was trying to put my new rims on the past weekend. The rim sizes are exactly like yours and the offsets are the same as well. My car is lowered with H&Rs. The tires are exactly like yours as well. when i put on the rears when the car is jacked up, the wheels are pretty wobbly with the lugs on pretty tight. Did you notice that problem when you installed yours? Did you use different lugs for the new wheels? I'm using my oem lugs still.
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Old May 3, 2010 | 11:52 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by guofan
I was trying to put my new rims on the past weekend. The rim sizes are exactly like yours and the offsets are the same as well. My car is lowered with H&Rs. The tires are exactly like yours as well. when i put on the rears when the car is jacked up, the wheels are pretty wobbly with the lugs on pretty tight. Did you notice that problem when you installed yours? Did you use different lugs for the new wheels? I'm using my oem lugs still.
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ugs-bolts.html
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Old May 3, 2010 | 12:53 PM
  #41  
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Thanks a lot man.
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Old May 3, 2010 | 02:09 PM
  #42  
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NP
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Old May 4, 2010 | 12:11 AM
  #43  
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What spring seating are you guys using on the H&R drop for the rear ? My OEM is 2 dots (9mm), I bought the 3 dots (13mm) & 4 dots (17mm) from the dealership. Any suggestion which one I should try it out first ? I really don't wanna put the wrong one and then take everything out again...lol

Whoever has H&R springs set up please help here ! Also for someone who has Koni Yellow adjustable shocks, what setting are you guys running ?

Last edited by ts350z; May 4, 2010 at 12:19 AM. Reason: wrong spelling
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Old May 4, 2010 | 12:39 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by ts350z
What spring seating are you guys using on the H&R drop for the rear ? My OEM is 2 dots (9mm), I bought the 3 dots (13mm) & 4 dots (17mm) from the dealership. Any suggestion which one I should try it out first ? I really don't wanna put the wrong one and then take everything out again...lol

Whoever has H&R springs set up please help here ! Also for someone who has Koni Yellow adjustable shocks, what setting are you guys running ?

Since your car is already lowered, you asked 2 questions that ONLY you know what you want. Do the math and figure out how much more lower/rise do you want.


As for adjustable struts/shocks, start out in the middle and goes from there to your driving style. It just that simple, not sure why you even ask.
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Old May 4, 2010 | 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by ts350z;
What spring seating are you guys using on the H&R drop for the rear ? My OEM is 2 dots (9mm), I bought the 3 dots (13mm) & 4 dots (17mm) from the dealership. Any suggestion which one I should try it out first ? I really don't wanna put the wrong one and then take everything out again...lol

Whoever has H&R springs set up please help here ! Also for someone who has Koni Yellow adjustable shocks, what setting are you guys running ?

I left them on #2 when I had H&R. If you wanna go a little higher go with #3. the #4 might be to high
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Old May 4, 2010 | 10:19 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by guofan
I was trying to put my new rims on the past weekend. The rim sizes are exactly like yours and the offsets are the same as well. My car is lowered with H&Rs. The tires are exactly like yours as well. when i put on the rears when the car is jacked up, the wheels are pretty wobbly with the lugs on pretty tight. Did you notice that problem when you installed yours? Did you use different lugs for the new wheels? I'm using my oem lugs still.
I had same issue, see my thread, deferent wheels so you might need deferent bolt lengths. Just make sure that once the bolt is inserted in to the rim it sticks out no more then 5/8th both front and back and you will be fine. I have 10 extra 24mm bolts available if it would work in your case, tapered bolts (cone type) with chrome finish.

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...l-trouble.html
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