dariusf

Was happy to finally find the time to install the new wheels replacing my OEM wheels with winter tires and ran in to trouble.

Got these Monarch EURO 63 rims

Front: 19x8.5 32mm offset with 225/35/19 tires
Rear:19x9.5 35mm offset with 255/35/19 tires

Got them used with 25mm bolts. The OEM 16'' wheels have the bolts sticking out ~ 5/8th both front and back. The new wheels have the included bolts sticking out 6/8th. From reading the forum

I should be fine but the rears give me clicking sound from I guess hitting the e-brake therefore looks like anything over 5/8th sticking out will be a problem.

The fronts will not even allow me to tighten the wheels. The bolts are tight but the wheel still is loose.

Another thing that got me worried is how close the inner top edge of the front rim comes to the shock. If I get the 1/8th shorter bolts to match the OEM, then the edge of the rim will be only about 5mm away from the shock. I worry that this might bee to close for comfort. I can add 3mm spacer (reduce vibrations over larger) and use the existing new bolts that are now too long and then I would be 8mm away from the shock. Wondering what your thoughts are on this?



As for the rear, everything looks like its clearing fine except for the bolts being 18th too long. Here I can get maybe 23mm bolts, shave 1/8th of an inch from existing bolts or add 3mm spacers. 3mm will not be anything one can tell as far as looking at the wheels so it will only allow me to use existing bolts with no modifications. I guess it would be better to just shave the bolts or get new bolts instead of the 3mm spacers.

Looking for opinions and advice especially with the rim/shock spacing if that’s something I should be concerned about.

Thanks much
Darius

astropat

First off, congrats on the wheels... I really like that style!

Are you at stock ride height?

For the rears, personally, I'd just add spacers. You can get some eBay hubcentric spacers for the rears for around $50 depending on how wide you go and they work fine. You'll also make your stance wider and look better from the rear. I know that there are plenty of guys with around et20 in the rear, but that would call for you to actually get some longer bolts... and that would be more trial and error also.

I'm not sure what's going on with the front... "bolts are tight, but the wheel is still loose"... All I can think of is that the wheel may not be seated properly.

As for the spacing with the rim/shock... you probably need to take the car around the block and just listen carefully. I don't know about your ride height, but I've seen multiple people run these wheels in the forums and none have reported any of these issues... granted that they may have used a different tire size.

Anyway, just my 2 cents...

dariusf

thanks much for the reply, appreciate it.

yes its stock now.

I was thinking about it and I do like the pushed out look. Concerned about any vibration issues at higher speeds with spacers over 3mm. That and I would have to get new bolts, would be easier to shave off the 1/8th at least for the time being just to get the wheels on the car.

Well I tighten up the bolts but they only go in to a certain point. So the wheel still has room to wiggle and its not tightened. The holes in the hub go all the way threw but the bolts can only screw in to a point. I guess the 1/8th extra length of the bolts is the issue. Once I add 3mm spacers, I will have exact length of the OEM bolts with OEM wheels (5/8th) and should be fine.

Its the rims edge that's close to the shock. The guy I got these from had them on I think 04 CLK500 with bigger breaks. Same tires, bolts but used 3mm spacers all around to clear the breaks. He also had it lowered with Eibach springs. I do not know if he had any rubbing issues.

I would think that once I add 3mm spacers for a total of 8mm clearance in the front I should be fine? Basically trying to figure out if 8mm clearance between the shock and the rim top is OK

astropat

For the front.... maybe an issue of ball seating vs tapered seating of the bolts? IDK... just a thought

dariusf

forgot to mention that the OEM 16" wheels have the tire clear the shock by about 11mm. The new wheels have the lip of the rim the widest part in the back and the clearance with 3mm spacers would be 8mm so I guess I worry about nothing

coin

Monarch wheels use tapered bolts. Good luck with everything

Just replied your email btw.

dariusf

No that bolts are the same as for the rears and the tampering is code that I believe is correct for these rims. Must to be the total length of the bolt.

I'm also wondering how much shorter the bolts can safely be then the OEM setup. Again my OEM 16" wheels have the OEM bolts stick out 5/8th which I would assume is the correct length given its OEM

dariusf

Hi Rudy, thank you for the email.

dariusf

Anyone having any thoughts about the inner top edge of the front rim being 8mm away from the shock? Should I worry about this?

FatTony001

What is tapered bolts?


I'm really worried about this issue now

I'm about the buy the Monarch 19" Same set-up !
+
PSS9

I hate trial and error (Monarch should already have done this test
before selling those wheels to MB owners )

dariusf

Its the cone shape verses ball shape, let me find a pic

dariusf

take a look at the pic in this store

http://www.tulipcitywheels.com/tcwst..._detail&p=1186

see the cone shape under the bolt head and before the threads?

Some call it cone, some conical. The OEM wheels use the rounded shape. These Monarch and I guess most other aftermarket wheels use cone.

dariusf

Well in deface to them, I think the wheels are for more models and not specifically for CLK only. Could be wrong on that. Then you get people with deferent brake sizes, spring highs/lowered cars. People wanting to move the wheels out towards the fenders with spacers, deferent wheels sizes, tire sizes etc. So you have to deal with the varies spacers and bolt lengths.

Once you know the proper length the bold needs to stick out in the back (5/8th on my CLK320) and you are not hitting anything with the size / width of the rim/tire you have, then it should be easier to calculate the proper sizes of the bolts required.

But I agree that its a trial and error.

BadDebt

Dariusf,
You should have made everyone guess what kind of wheels you bought. That seems to be the thing to do.....

dariusf

perhaps I would have more replies on the thread if I did


Anyone having any thoughts about the inner top edge of the front rim being 8mm away from the shock? Should I worry about this?

coin

The specs (19x8.5 ET32 up front) is very common for W209 so you're fine.

Just get the right bolts and slap them on

dariusf

Hopefully just being paranoid I have the 3mm spacers for the front in the mail so I can push the wheels out a little and use the existing bolts there. Then I have 23mm bolts in the mail for the rears. Although now I might want to push the rears out a bit but I can wait with that for a future mod.

Another thing I thought would be a good idea is to get some locking bolts added in to the mix. I'm sure it'd not going to stop determined thief but its always something.

ts350z

I ran into the clicking noise too like you did ! Well, glad we have this forums to do some research !!

FatTony001

aaa thanks

and what company of tires did you choice?

+ I will order some 3mm front spacers then
soo the inner wheel don't touch the front shock

and I will wait to see how it fits on for the rear spacers.

Dariusf, you should do a review about these wheels fitment.
alot of us have and will have the Euro63

dariusf

I guess you could get away with not using spacers on the front if your bolt is 23mm. Just that you will be about 5mm from the shock. You could also use 23mm bolts for the rear. I test drove my rears with 25mm bolts and could only hear the clicking issue and did not detect any rubbing or see any when looking around. So with proper 23mm bolts you should be fine. I got a set of them from ebay. It was sold in a set of 20 so I will have extra 10 that I will need to sell. They are chrome plated too.

Now that is with stock suspension. With lowered you will sure need to add some spacers. Also depends on the tires and brakes. I am stock for both none AMG, at least for now.

As for the tires I got the rims used with used tires:

225/35/19 Toyo FZ4
255/35/19 Bridgestone Potenza RE050

Was told that the Toyo has low angle cut edge that is good for rubbing issues when lowered. I might need to replace the rear tires as it looks like one is leaking air.

dariusf

Yes thats for sure. I did a bunch of research on the wheels reading many posts here. I was actively listing as I pulled out of the garage for any clicking noises. The only thing is that based on some of the other posts on the acceptable bolt length sticking out, I did not think I would have any issues. Apparently anything over 5/8th sticking out will be a problem for the rears and the fronts.

If I knew this, I would same myself lots of car lifting and lowering I need to get a floor lift

dariusf

OK, got the spacers and extra shorter bolts for the rears. But one of the rear tires is loosing air so its all flat overnight. Left it at the tire place yesterday, hope its something easily fixed and I don't have to buy two new tires Hopefully no more surprises and I finally get these wheels on the car.

FatTony001

just to be sure:

to fit the Monarch Euro63RS 19" on a W209

you need a 3mm H&R spacer up front

(the back spacer is optional)

and need 23mm long tapered bolts (cone type) front and back

Is all this correct ?

dariusf

Correct IF you want to add additional clearance for the top of the rim and the shock from 5mm to 8mm. Otherwise you can mount them with out the spacers and use the 23mm bolts. If you choose to use the 3mm spacers then use the 25mm bolts.

correct, from my limited test its optional and you should be fine with out using the spacers on the rear.

again if you do not use the spacers at all, then use the 23mm bolts all around. If you use the 3mm spacers in the front then you will have to get longer 25mm or maybe 26mm bolts to use with the spacers.

All that assumes you are not lowered and do not want to push out the wheels for better looks.

Was over at the tire shop yesterday and unfortunately I need a new tire for one of the rears The"lip" that is on the edge of the tire is cracked and leaking air. I have a replacement on order but do not know when it will arrive and I'm out of town most of next week. I can report back once I'm back and I have the wheels mounted. If you are doing it yourself, then you might want to buy a floor jack as the one that comes with the CLK sure is lots of work

dariusf

this is the plan for my ride at least for now:

front: 3mm spacers, 25mm bolts
rear: no spacers, 23mm bolts

I have 10 extra 24mm bolts available if anyone is interested, tapered bolts (cone type) with chrome finish. I'm in SW Chicago burbs.