The trying to figure out weather to get a used or new and if I should get the original Mercedes or the brand you have. If there is even a difference? "Pierburg"

 

The trying to figure out weather to get a used or new and if I should get the original Mercedes or the brand you have. If there is even a difference? "Pierburg"

 

Pierburg IS the OEM version, they manufacture the manifold for MB. So it is the original part. I would not get second hand unit as it propably will fail at some point. The new one will last for the rest of the cars life.

 

(The throttle housing mounting holes are not threaded, the mounting bolts are self-tapping) $599 from autohausaz & parts geek for 544.99
Is this self tapping normal?

 

Yes, there are no threads but you just have to put some torque and push a little when tightening the bolts, they will carve their own threads. I mention this on my video (part 2). Check it out to get all the necessary tips.

The price seems quite good, I think that is about as low as possible for OEM manifold.

 

Ok thanks for everything!! Yes I took a quick look at you video but will watch it when I start the project. Do you guys have auto folding mirrors over there? I need left driver side.

 

Great, I'm very glad if I can help even one to do the repair!

And one more thing, my car has M272 2.5L engine. But I'm quite confident that your 3.5L model has the same manifold, but be sure and check it with the dealer before buying new unit. Also have fun with the project, it's more easier to do then it first looks. Just remember to get new gaskets when buying the manifold.

 

Thanks again !! I selected my year make and model so I should be good,but thank you for the heads up. Let me know if the e class (211) have auto fold mirror (wings/side mirrors)

 

My car is a C-class W203 C230, so I do not know about mirrors in 211.. but maybe other guys sees your question and can help you with that

 

Hello again, so I've clear these codes 2-3 times in the last 2 days and the cel would come on within 30 minutes of driving after I would restart the car. I noticed the hose going to the manifold absolute pressure sensor was split so I cut it so to remove the break and put it back on the sensor cleared codes again and haven't got the cel. Could this have been my issue?
Also before clearing the codes this time I got a p0015 (all magnets where's replaced about 6 months ago)
Thanks again

 

Yes, it is possible that you just had an air leak. If your engine idles smoothly, and there is no any misfires (you can see and feel the engine shaking randomly) and the car does not hesitate when pushing pedal, you might have a working manifold. Maybe you should drive for a while and read if you have any new codes.

But I was also able to reset CEL and it stayed away from days to months until it always came back. At the end the engine was very noisy (high whistling sound from air leak) and the engine was shaking a lot on idle.

It is quite hard to check if the manifold is ok from the inside when it is attached to the engine.. but you might be able to remove MAF+part under it, push the throttle body open and trying to look inside the manifold using mirror to see if your looks the same from inside as mine did..

 

Thank you again you have been so helpful with every possible detail. When you say rough idle does it have to be in gear with load on the motor or just idling in park? I will try to take a peek in there to see if I can spot any issues.

 

No problem, I'm happy to contribute back to the community, who helped me to save lot's of money on this project by providing tips.

I noticed if my car was idling transmision on P, the engine was trembling randomly once every 5-15 seconds as it misfired. If I had the transmission on D and kept the car stopped using brakes, I could feel the whole car shaking a little as the misfire happened. Misfires were not noticeable when driving.

But at the end when the manifold was badly damaged the idling was something terrible and it was embarasing to stop to the lights, the whole car was shaking even on neutral and let out all kind of pop's and buffs

 

I got some feedback that my manifold changing tutorial is quite long.. well.. it is the point as it is a walk-through and I filmed it as I learned to do the job

But I have heard you and if you are in a hurry and just want to see the procedure as quick as possible, there is now an short under 8 minute version of the video with narration, where the speed is the thing. At the beginning there is also a short informational part about how the manifold actually works.

Here is the link to the quick-video, have fun
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lptOO4tB9-E

 

Great tutorial. I don't have to change the manifold on my car but I had fun watching it

 

Thanks for the feedback!

I added a little informational part about manifold technology to the beginning of the video for people like you, who does not have the need for repair tutorial but might like to learn new stuff. So more people can enjoy the video and learn technology

 

Ordered manifold, should get it tomorrow. Torque spec's? I don't remember and are there 2 seals for each injector, because I just called Mercedes and they said there are an upper and a lower seal for each injector.. $2 each and $4 each. Also got the gaskets from world pac and was wondering what brand you used for your gaskets? The gaskets I got start with a "V" lol sorry forgot the brand.
The new video came out great by the way!!

 

Hi everyone

I wanted to share my experience with this issue. I have 2007 C230 automatic

I took my car into independent repair shop for oil change and I was informed that I need new intake manifold that would cost me 1100$ plus tax plus labor (900$). Same work would cost me anywhere between 3-4k$ at the dealership. I was told that there is no way I would be able to pass the smog test because of code in the computer.

I did my own research on the code that computer was giving, and I realized few things. Flap that controls intake of air is purposly made plastic (which sooner or later will wear out and break). MB does not make this flap, because its too cheap, so they sell ONLY the whole intake, which makes no sense to replace, since most of it is metal, and metal as such wont wear out so fast, and again you get a plastic piece on your car for which you will only get 1 year of warranty from the dealership, in which most likelly it wont wear out that fast, so few years down the line, if you plan on keeping the car, you will run into same problem.

When you add gas, there is explosion inside the engine, which pushes your car forward. When the flap is not opening and closing when needed, you essentially do not get air in your engine for explosion, and your car wont speed up correctly. Issue with smog test is that there is too much gas being burned out, so car gives too much smog in the exust system which fails the smog test.

I looked into options of buying used manifold, but that essentially wont solve anything, cause even after you have it installed, it can break again at any point in time.

I ordered this item off ebay. The seller guaranteed the fit, to which I was very skeptical:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291396418211?item=291396418211&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
I took my car into the independent repair shop, who installed above (metal !!!) piece, and I was able to pass my smog test this morning. Instead spending 4000$ on new manifold, I fixed this issue for less then 500$.

I can highly recommend this solution if you have the same problem as I did with the manifold. Do the research on the code that car is giving, so that you can get the piece that is needed, instead buying something that makes no sense financially.

 

Yes I've replaced that already. The thing is there are plastic flaps inside the manifold that will eventually break as well.

 

FYI, these components in the intake manifold do not affect the mixture and therefore don't affect emissions. What they do is change the length of the intake path to increase torque. Ironically, when an engine has to work harder to suck air into the intake side, or push air out the exhaust, it increases torque. So during acceleration, these "tumble flaps" switch to a longer pathway in the manifold to increase torque. At idle and at highway speeds, they switch to a shorter path to improve fuel economy.


BTW, this also means that if you reduce exhaust back pressure by "opening up" the system, you may actually reduce performance.

 

Actually there are two seals at each injector but you only have to replace the bottom seal (the green one). The upper seal is located at the top of the injector but as the injector is not removed from the rail, they do not need replacement.

The gaskets I used were Victor Reinz.

http://www.buycarparts.co.uk/reinz/7443150
http://www.buycarparts.co.uk/reinz/7443151

Thanks for the feedback about video. About the torgue specs on video.. I should have mentioned in the video that those curves are not the M272 actual curves, they are only an replecentation how the variable length intake helps the lower rpm range.. I might have to edit an updated version..

 

I had just perfect smog test only couple of months before the engine failed. But the smog test fails if there is an CEL light on (or enough error codes at the memory), which in my case was on many times before replacing the manifold. Also the smog test may fail event the CEL is not on because the the engine learns and adjust the idle lean mixture and that I had also all over the place. It can be too lean or too rich, which will increase emissions. I just had to reset the controller with Star just before going to the emissions test with engine on default settings

I would not get used manifold either, because it will fail at some point. Also the flap replacement might be good idea, but only if the manifold is in good shape at the inside. I got my new OEM manifold and payed $550, so this was a very good price as I did the work by myself. Now the manifold will last for the rest of the cars life.

 

Thank you !! Yes those are the gaskets I ordered. I will also stop by dealer tomorrow before I start the project and pick up the lower seals. Thanks again!! You have been so much help to me in getting me ready for this and helping me acknowledging my issue. Btw I will be replacing my new manifolds part with the aluminum one that I had put on my old one Manny ful aluminum one that I had put on my old manifold.
Sorry I meant the torque (nm) on the manifold bolts

 

Aaah, sorry, my mistake! The manifold bolts should be tighten to 9Nm.

 

All done. Didn't tighten TB enough at first and was getting misfires. I was afraid to Strip it. But my old manifold seems fine inside, only a slight noise from the center diaphragm. Guess it was just the vacuum line that had a split in it.
Anyway for the millionth time thank you very much for your help and all your details.
Dave
Btw I had a lot of oil or sludge in my valves, so I sprayed them with valve cleaner but plan to do the BG cleaning