Intake manifold broken?
MBworld Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 10,782
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I suppose it's possible to have a manifold problem without it throwing an error. As for readiness indicator issues, try the drive cycle:
http://benzbits.com/Drive_Cycle_Readiness.pdf
http://benzbits.com/Drive_Cycle_Readiness.pdf
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
06 CLK 350
I suppose it's possible to have a manifold problem without it throwing an error. As for readiness indicator issues, try the drive cycle:
http://benzbits.com/Drive_Cycle_Readiness.pdf
http://benzbits.com/Drive_Cycle_Readiness.pdf
Thank you, I will try it.
It baffles me that this is a premium car and it has so many plastic parts and they break so often.
I replaced few few times and just gave up. (Gear shift base plate, door sil plates etc).
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
06 CLK 350
I spent $3K last week replacing upper, lower control arms, bushings, spark plugs, side indicator lamp/ socket and B service at Dealer. It may not be a bad price for the number of things I got done but its almost 50% of my cars value (06 CLK). Is it supposed to be like that? Even for MB? Whats the upper threshold for fixing car with 100K miles? I am just praying that I am out of balance shaft issue because of 100K miles but I know its not true. If this breakdown I am going to buy a Honda/Hyundai/Toyota.
Last edited by virtuo0; Dec 23, 2016 at 12:21 AM.
MBworld Guru
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Posts: 10,782
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If you're going to rely on the dealer to do your work, you're going to re-buy the car many times over. I could have done all that myself for around $650 in parts and an afternoon of my time int he garage. Even if the labor took 8 hours, at $100/hr, that's only an additional $800 in labor, so you basically paid about twice the price for the "pleasure" of going tot he MBZ dealer. Whethter you keep this car or trade for something less complex, my advice is to either find a good indy shop or learn to DIY.
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
06 CLK 350
I suppose it's possible to have a manifold problem without it throwing an error. As for readiness indicator issues, try the drive cycle:
http://benzbits.com/Drive_Cycle_Readiness.pdf
http://benzbits.com/Drive_Cycle_Readiness.pdf
I used the OBD scanner to read the readiness monitors without drive cycle. Other than HCM, A/C and EGR everything is ready. These 3 are N/A or not supported.
Will try drive cycle later.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,022
Likes: 44
From: Los Angeles, CA
2015 C400 Tenorite Gray
If you're going to rely on the dealer to do your work, you're going to re-buy the car many times over. I could have done all that myself for around $650 in parts and an afternoon of my time int he garage. Even if the labor took 8 hours, at $100/hr, that's only an additional $800 in labor, so you basically paid about twice the price for the "pleasure" of going tot he MBZ dealer. Whethter you keep this car or trade for something less complex, my advice is to either find a good indy shop or learn to DIY.
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Newbie
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
06 CLK 350
What monitors does 06 CLK support? Is there any place find out vehicle year and supported monitors?
I understand that A/C is not relevant. What about Heated catalyst and EGR?
Thanks for the inputs.
I understand that A/C is not relevant. What about Heated catalyst and EGR?
Thanks for the inputs.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: So Cal
c350 204
I am part of the club....
Dealer said it was stuck or broken flaps and wanted to charge me $150 to diagnose. Said needed to put a camera somewhere to see if he can unstick or if not, the intake needed replacing...said wont hurt car, just wont pass emissions...
Where is he sticking camera? I don't see any ports to look at flaps? If the plastic rods are broken, cant you just see them visually like most on this site?
Can you fix/replace plastic rods without having to take off manifold?
thanks
Where is he sticking camera? I don't see any ports to look at flaps? If the plastic rods are broken, cant you just see them visually like most on this site?
Can you fix/replace plastic rods without having to take off manifold?
thanks
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: So Cal
c350 204
[QUOTE=RNajarian;6693546]I'll chime in because this just happened to me . . .
Last month at 104,000 miles in my 2007 CLK 350, while driving 65 mph on the freeway I got a check engine light.
My trusted mechanic/cousin plugged in his Snap-On ODB2 scanner and got these codes 0522 (intake manifold tumble flap) and 0856 (thermostat)
I had the same pair of check engine lights 0522/0856...Have read other places of the same pair of codes happening. Any reason the failure of the stat and the intake manifold happen at the same time??? Doesn't make a lot of sense why they would happen together...a lot of coincidences the two happen at same time...
Last month at 104,000 miles in my 2007 CLK 350, while driving 65 mph on the freeway I got a check engine light.
My trusted mechanic/cousin plugged in his Snap-On ODB2 scanner and got these codes 0522 (intake manifold tumble flap) and 0856 (thermostat)
I had the same pair of check engine lights 0522/0856...Have read other places of the same pair of codes happening. Any reason the failure of the stat and the intake manifold happen at the same time??? Doesn't make a lot of sense why they would happen together...a lot of coincidences the two happen at same time...
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 7
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From: So Cal
c350 204
MBworld Guru
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I don't think the flaps are sticky - I think either they are broken or the actuators are broken. Either way, you wan to be careful here - you don't want broken manifold parts sucked into the engine as that could be VERY costly to repair (more than a $500-$800 intake manifold).
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
2008 CLK 550 Cabriolet
The plastic actuator is what broke on my CLK 350, apparently it is a fairly common problem considering the number of aftermarket kits there are to fix it and much less expensive than a new manifold if this is your problem.
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 591
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From: Mid-Atlantic USA
W203 & W204 3.0L 4matics & MR2 Supercharger
Anyone try or succeed in replacing the actuator with the manifold still bolted in the car, I notice some have left a lot of stuff still hooked up and just lifted the front part of the manifold up enough to get to the actuator.
NP
NP
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
CLK350
So apparently I might have this very situation! I pulled up codes and it gave the P20006 and P20030. Intake manifold runner stuck open bank 1, and misfiring issues. This was a generic obd by the way from autozone. No performance issues, 26+ gas mileage, drives great etc. Just being cautious as I hear parts can get stuck into valve, which would be worse.
I have read as much as I could read on this forum, and have also watched multiple videos from youtube.
I have also compiled diagrams provided by rudeney from benzbits etc.
http://benzbits.com/m272/IntakeManifold.pdf
I think I have decided to replace the entire intake manifold myself, I am somewhat ok with DIY, but would be my first time on a benz. So a little apprehensive
My question is what should I go for?
1) a refurbished RMT, with the metal lever now attached?
http://www.rebuildmastertech.com/mer...et-2721402401/
2) or should I get a new one from Pierburg who seem to manufacture for mercedez, problem is that the plastic still comes with it.
http://www.partsgeek.com/ss/
Pls if you have any other information on OEM cheap part let me know..
I am also willing to hear "ANY" piece of advise in regards to installing this part, the more redundant the better.
Thanks in advance guys
I have read as much as I could read on this forum, and have also watched multiple videos from youtube.
I have also compiled diagrams provided by rudeney from benzbits etc.
http://benzbits.com/m272/IntakeManifold.pdf
I think I have decided to replace the entire intake manifold myself, I am somewhat ok with DIY, but would be my first time on a benz. So a little apprehensive
My question is what should I go for?
1) a refurbished RMT, with the metal lever now attached?
http://www.rebuildmastertech.com/mer...et-2721402401/
2) or should I get a new one from Pierburg who seem to manufacture for mercedez, problem is that the plastic still comes with it.
http://www.partsgeek.com/ss/
Pls if you have any other information on OEM cheap part let me know..
I am also willing to hear "ANY" piece of advise in regards to installing this part, the more redundant the better.
Thanks in advance guys
Last edited by MrMiky; Apr 18, 2017 at 02:51 PM.
MBworld Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 10,782
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NO LONGER ACTIVE
Thing is, these don't break with the frequency one would think based on the posts int he forums. Intake manifold problems don't even show as a blip on consumer ratings. Me, I;d by the Pierburg, put it in, and drive.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Toronto ON
2008 C300 Sport 6spd
I have a 2008 c300 with the m272 engine and I constantly get a P2006 code for Intake Manifold Bank 1 Runner control Stuck closed. I visually inspected down the front and found that exact broken triangle swivel. But if thats the case then shouldn't I be getting both Bank 1 AND 2 codes? I see one linkage controlling two runners (bigger vaccum actuator) and two smaller vaccum actuators that I assume control the two short runners individually? I looked at some FFD and this code comes under low working parameters like engine Rpm 780, TPS 11.8 degrees... Im definitely going to start by lifting the manifold and replacing the swivel with an aluminium one just because its Visually broken Or should I just swap out the manifold entirely and install one brand new with the aluminum swivel. Help is appreciated
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,022
Likes: 44
From: Los Angeles, CA
2015 C400 Tenorite Gray
I have a 2008 c300 with the m272 engine and I constantly get a P2006 code for Intake Manifold Bank 1 Runner control Stuck closed. I visually inspected down the front and found that exact broken triangle swivel. But if thats the case then shouldn't I be getting both Bank 1 AND 2 codes? I see one linkage controlling two runners (bigger vaccum actuator) and two smaller vaccum actuators that I assume control the two short runners individually? I looked at some FFD and this code comes under low working parameters like engine Rpm 780, TPS 11.8 degrees... Im definitely going to start by lifting the manifold and replacing the swivel with an aluminium one just because its Visually broken Or should I just swap out the manifold entirely and install one brand new with the aluminum swivel. Help is appreciated
Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 144
Likes: 2
From: Orange County, Ca
2007 E350 RWD SP1 (M211.056/E272.964)
Thanks,
