pulling to the right
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Joined: Aug 2011
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07 CLK550, 07 Z4
pulling to the right
2007 CLK 550 with 50000 kms, which I just picked up used from the dealer.
Car definitely has a noticeable right pull. Part of it is the crowned roads here, but I tested it out putting it on a left-leaning crown and it drove straight (so there is definitely something in the alignment that is pulling right).
On a straight or right crowned road I have to hold the wheel slightly left.
I just got new tires put in yesterday (Continental DWS) so that might be it, but even on the tires that were on it before there did seem to be a pull to the same direction, although not quite as severe (or maybe I didn't notice as much).
According to the dealer's service history, the car has had two 4-wheel alignments done in its life. Not sure if it has camber bolts installed (anyone know how I can find out?)
I'm going to swap the tires around but I suspect there is something funky in the setup. I want to get the car checked out at a proper alignment shop, but I from what I've read not all shops can set up late model MBs? What should I look for?
Don't really want to take it to the dealer and get hosed. If the right pull is really part of the design for LHD cars (to avoid head-ons) I'd honestly rather prefer it get set up in a neutral way or even a cross caster setup to resist crowning.
Car definitely has a noticeable right pull. Part of it is the crowned roads here, but I tested it out putting it on a left-leaning crown and it drove straight (so there is definitely something in the alignment that is pulling right).
On a straight or right crowned road I have to hold the wheel slightly left.
I just got new tires put in yesterday (Continental DWS) so that might be it, but even on the tires that were on it before there did seem to be a pull to the same direction, although not quite as severe (or maybe I didn't notice as much).
According to the dealer's service history, the car has had two 4-wheel alignments done in its life. Not sure if it has camber bolts installed (anyone know how I can find out?)
I'm going to swap the tires around but I suspect there is something funky in the setup. I want to get the car checked out at a proper alignment shop, but I from what I've read not all shops can set up late model MBs? What should I look for?
Don't really want to take it to the dealer and get hosed. If the right pull is really part of the design for LHD cars (to avoid head-ons) I'd honestly rather prefer it get set up in a neutral way or even a cross caster setup to resist crowning.
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'03 clk 500
had my clk500 since it was new and it has always had a slight pull to the right.
i've also read about many other mercs on the forums, though not necessarily w209s, having this issue even after alignments. pretty sure our cars are built to do so
i've also read about many other mercs on the forums, though not necessarily w209s, having this issue even after alignments. pretty sure our cars are built to do so
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From: A Canadian in Dubai, United Arab Emirates
'05 C200K SS, '05 Kleemann CLK500K, '08 Hummer H3 & '92 Z34 5sp (track car in Canada)
Check alignment and tire pressures, mine doesn't pull whatsoever, straight as an arrow.
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07 CLK550, 07 Z4
Pressures are within 0.5psi of each other. Going to have the tires rotated tonight to see if it helps.
The Conti DWS are not precisely rotationally symmetric, but they are not directional either, so they are very near rotational symmetry. Either way there could be something in the small tread pattern difference.
The Conti DWS are not precisely rotationally symmetric, but they are not directional either, so they are very near rotational symmetry. Either way there could be something in the small tread pattern difference.
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From: Witness Protection Program
06 CLK350 -SOLD! 2010 Cadillac SRX Premium Turbo
I'm with Kev. Mine has no pull left or right. Have a good 4 wheel alignment done by another source. The alignment I got at the dealer was terrible. The last alignment I had done, I watched the whole process and ask questions while it was being done. Can't do that at the dealership.
As for the DWS tires, I have had them on other cars with no issues like you have mentioned. My daughter has them on her's now and loves them. Wear has always been great as well. Good luck with it.
As for the DWS tires, I have had them on other cars with no issues like you have mentioned. My daughter has them on her's now and loves them. Wear has always been great as well. Good luck with it.
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Yea I have worn out tires and bent stock wheels (the previous owner was a woman, go figure) however it drives straight. On some roads I don't even keep my hands on the wheel, my knees are all I need lmao
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CLK
Mine pulls pretty noticeably to the right as well. Had it aligned once and it did the same. Thinking of going somewhere else for round two. I was talking to my mechanic about it and he said there is a special tool you need for mercedes that not all alignment places have or know about.
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07 CLK550, 07 Z4
Got the tires rotated (left / right). Seems to be better, and I'm *fairly* certain its not just in my head. The guys at the tire place recommended me a specialty alignment place, so I'll see how it goes post rotation.
Basically the pull has gone from noticeable but not that annoying to barely noticeable.
Basically the pull has gone from noticeable but not that annoying to barely noticeable.
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
For pulling to the right with the camber of the road. Fit fluted 3 way alignment bolts to the castor bushes & increase the castor one more degree on the RHS than the LHS for LHD cars - opposite for RHD cars. Typically 9.6 degrees & 10.6 degrees. Benz allows up to 2 degress more castor to correct pulling but 1 degree usually does the trick.
EDIT. obviously do a full 4 wheel alignment & check tyres for uneven wear. Rear toe is also critical.
EDIT. obviously do a full 4 wheel alignment & check tyres for uneven wear. Rear toe is also critical.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Mar 6, 2012 at 11:40 AM.
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2008 CLK550 Cab
There are a whole lot of posts about MB's pulling right on the forums, as I learned when I discovered mine does. There's even a pretty widespread urban legend that MB does it on purpose so if you fall asleep the car will drive into a tree instead of oncoming traffic. I now nap frequently at the wheel because of the comfort that gives me. The dealer put on the camber bolts then told me it was the tires. So I got new Michelins and was told it's still the tires. If it's tires, how come they never pull left - only right? Right now I am compensating with cross camber and cross caster slighly out of spec. They have spent a whole lot of time on it dismounting tires and flipping them etc. The whole steering experience is the most dissapointing thing about the car to me - all the road feel of a 1965 Lincoln.
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There are a whole lot of posts about MB's pulling right on the forums, as I learned when I discovered mine does. There's even a pretty widespread urban legend that MB does it on purpose so if you fall asleep the car will drive into a tree instead of oncoming traffic. I now nap frequently at the wheel because of the comfort that gives me. The dealer put on the camber bolts then told me it was the tires. So I got new Michelins and was told it's still the tires. If it's tires, how come they never pull left - only right? Right now I am compensating with cross camber and cross caster slighly out of spec. They have spent a whole lot of time on it dismounting tires and flipping them etc. The whole steering experience is the most dissapointing thing about the car to me - all the road feel of a 1965 Lincoln.
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From: Lower Hudson Valley, N.Y.
2012 CLS550 4MATIC, 2009 CLK550 Cabriolet, 2002 E320 4MATIC Wagon
We had the same problem with our CLK Cab pulling right. We took it to the dealer (only b/c they were having a springtime special, and charging half of what they normally do) and they performed a four wheel alignment and added camber bolts and the car tracks straight as a ruler. Even a year later, and that says something considering my wife isnt very skilled at avoiding potholes.
Your tire rotation helped but Im sure the problem will completely go away once the wheels are properly aligned and the caster and camber are back to spec.
I wouldnt think it's the tires only b/c I have those same tires on my E320 and that car tracks straight with zero wander whatsoever. Take your hands off the wheel even at highway speeds and the steering doesnt budge a dime.
Your tire rotation helped but Im sure the problem will completely go away once the wheels are properly aligned and the caster and camber are back to spec.
I wouldnt think it's the tires only b/c I have those same tires on my E320 and that car tracks straight with zero wander whatsoever. Take your hands off the wheel even at highway speeds and the steering doesnt budge a dime.
Last edited by CLK550AMGpkg; Mar 6, 2012 at 03:00 PM.
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From: Milton/Westport, MA USA
me: 2015 SL400 & 2015 ML400; wife: 2022 GLC Coupe; daughter: 2017 GLC SUV
My dealer charges me $109.99 for a 4 wheel alignment they send it out for. I've had a few, and they're great, till I get some "eddieo" miles on it.....
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2008 CLK550 Cab
Up to a point, but not totally. The Volvo C70 I had before this was far less stiff, but felt much more in contact with the road than this car - like it was riding on rails as the saying goes. This car feels less precise in that way.
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From: Lower Hudson Valley, N.Y.
2012 CLS550 4MATIC, 2009 CLK550 Cabriolet, 2002 E320 4MATIC Wagon
I feel like the CLK is one of the most structurally rigid convertibles ive ever driven. The only one I can think of that feels slightly more solid is the new E cabrio
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Anyway - whatever - the cabs suffer some scuttle shake. I find my Coupe handles remarkably well compared with a W203. That said - SA cars are generally spec'ed with firmer spring & damper rates.
To stop the pulling you have to get the castor right. Any Benz will pull with the camber of the road with identical castor settings. It seems US alignment shops are not aware of this from 203 & 204 forum experience. SA alignment shops have this drummed into them by MBSA & all carry the fluted bolts.
See pdf.
To stop the pulling you have to get the castor right. Any Benz will pull with the camber of the road with identical castor settings. It seems US alignment shops are not aware of this from 203 & 204 forum experience. SA alignment shops have this drummed into them by MBSA & all carry the fluted bolts.
See pdf.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Mar 7, 2012 at 05:15 AM.
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NO LONGER ACTIVE
Mine doesn't pull at all, but being a cabriolet, I get plenty of shudder and vibration over rough roads. Honestly, my kid's C240 drives better -both sportier and smoother - than the CLK. Regardless, I'd rather be driving my CLK. Right now, I'm driving a rented Mazda 6 while the kid drives the CLK. he C240 is in the body shop getting repaired. Apparently, the high school parking lot doubles as an amateur demolition derby course. anyhow, the Mazda is totally uninspiring. It seems quiet and nice until you push it and then it stumbles and fails. That's one thing that MBZ has always gotten right - the may feel soft and plush in normal driving, but when pushed, they "sit up straight" and take what you give them.
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Yep! All Benz cars are terminal understeerers by design for safety in unskilled hands. My C240 handled well but was very tyre dependent. It was crap on Conti SC's but wonderful on Michelin PS2's or Pilot Exalto PE2's where it became almost neutral with great & precise turn in. I find my CLK a big step forward however & not only in refinement. It is firm & taught & obviously has higher sway bar rates than the 240. And I'm still wearing out the OE Conti SC3's she came with from factory. Look forward to PS2 or PSS on it.
Maybe the lighter V6 in the nose has something to do with it & the wider track.
Maybe the lighter V6 in the nose has something to do with it & the wider track.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Mar 7, 2012 at 05:47 AM.
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From: Worcester, MA
15' CLS400
Through my last two cars I have noticed that MB steering is susceptable to all kinds of conditions. The alignment must be almost perfect, the tire pressure almost perfect etc.. a heavy girlfriend in the passenger seat might even through it off.
I don't have the dealer do much but alignments are one of they things I do bring it in for. They don't cost much more if any than bringing it elsewhere.
My car is now pulling a little because I did something dumb, I bought used tires from ebay and didn't realize the front ones can come with two different load ratings 91H or 94H. I got one of each and the higher load rating tire is slightly bigger. Duhh
I don't have the dealer do much but alignments are one of they things I do bring it in for. They don't cost much more if any than bringing it elsewhere.
My car is now pulling a little because I did something dumb, I bought used tires from ebay and didn't realize the front ones can come with two different load ratings 91H or 94H. I got one of each and the higher load rating tire is slightly bigger. Duhh
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2004 CLK320
The dealershop charges $200 for an 4-wheel alignment here in local Toronto. I tried one time at an outside alignment shop and he charged me $60. I asked if I needed camber adjustment and he said no.
After the alignement, I had to go back to adjust the steering wheel. To keep the car straight, I had to position the steering wheel slightly to the left. This is what I have to do everytime after an alignment, even at the dealership. This started when I changed to a wooden steering wheel a few years ago.
The car drives great. For me, this $60 alignment is no different than the $200 alignment in the dealership. For this price, I will do this every year!
After the alignement, I had to go back to adjust the steering wheel. To keep the car straight, I had to position the steering wheel slightly to the left. This is what I have to do everytime after an alignment, even at the dealership. This started when I changed to a wooden steering wheel a few years ago.
The car drives great. For me, this $60 alignment is no different than the $200 alignment in the dealership. For this price, I will do this every year!
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From: Worcester, MA
15' CLS400
Damn... I take back what I said then. At those prices I would too. Here in Mass the dealership charges $149 and there's no way you would find a place for less than $100.
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2004 CLK320
I did talk to my SA which is also a personal friend. He told me the $200 charged by the dealership includes all the overheads like the person who books the appointment, the computer records, the refreshment in the waiting area, the service advisor, etc...
Not sure how complicated are the caster/ camber/ toe adjustments, my 4-wheel alignemnet was simple enough. The indie hooked up the "head" in each wheel, adjusted something behind the wheels in accordance to the computer. After he adjusted the steering wheel, the car drove well.
Not sure how complicated are the caster/ camber/ toe adjustments, my 4-wheel alignemnet was simple enough. The indie hooked up the "head" in each wheel, adjusted something behind the wheels in accordance to the computer. After he adjusted the steering wheel, the car drove well.
Last edited by mis3; Mar 7, 2012 at 01:44 PM.
