AndyKatz

I am going to look at a local '06 CLK 350 with 22k miles, and comes with a Mercury Platinum warranty good through 2017/100k - including tire replacement, for an extra $1,000. The seller also said he could get money back on the warranty if he cancels it, so he would take $1000 off the price with no warranty transfer.

Is it bad luck to cancel a warranty like this? Or, am I better off banking the $1000 and taking my chances (that's what my wife thinks).

PS--I'll be using the car as a daily driver!

Pufftrees

I have an 06 500 with a lot more miles as reference.

Aftermarket warranties on my car were around 1200 per year for the top end (nearly bumper to bumper) so 1000 seems really low for multiple years and even tire replacement.

If the warranty is literally 1k and includes tire replacement, I would definitely get it. Not sure what stipulations are involved with the MerC Platinum warranty though.

AndyKatz

From what I read, the Merc. Platinum excludes wear items, exhaust, cats, but covers mechanicals and electric problems. To get a new Merc Platinum warranty, it would cost $4k for 4 years.

The seller got the 7 year warranty when he bought the car used. This is the remainder of that warranty, which could be signed over to me, at $1000 added onto the selling price.

Glyn M Ruck

Take that warranty. 06 models have potential lanchester shaft sprocket wear issue & possible 722.9 transmission valve body issues.

Pufftrees

I am no expert on this matter (luckily Glyn is and commented ) but I would 100 percent take that warranty. It will nearly pay for itself at the first sign of trouble.

AndyKatz

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking, even if my wife doesn't agree. Not that I want to tell her I'm buying a German time bomb that needs a serious warranty! That would put her over the edge, considering my other car is a 996!

Are there tell-tale signs of transmission problems I can discover on my first test drive?

Glyn M Ruck

Engine speed related high whine from the torque converter.

Clonky gear changes, especially downchanges. CEL's related to the turbine speed sensor.

If you get a harsh change back to first gear however it's usually just that the transmission needs the latest software flash. With the latest software the transmission allows the car to come to a halt in 2nd before selecting first gear once stationary in S Mode.

AndyKatz

OK, so clunky shifts (other than slowing for a light from 2nd to 1st), whiney noise related to engine speed means - the tranny is in need of an expensive repair that the warranty should cover?

Otherwise, are the dealers the only ones with the software update to the tranny?

Glyn M Ruck

Yes & warranty will cover.

Dealer is the only one with the new software flash. These things might well have been done on the car you drive.

AndyKatz

True, but if the seller has no idea, at least I know what to listen/feel for. And if a CEL comes on, run away?

Glyn M Ruck

If the car is displaying a CEL I would not necessarily run away but I would check what codes are stored with an OBDII scanner.

AndyKatz

I never brought a code reader to a test drive! That would be like walking around with a blood pressure tester.

Rudeney

I take two things to a pre-owned car test drive - SDS and a paint thickness tester. It's less like walking around with a blood pressure machine and more like taking a list of all your meds with you when seeing a new doctor.

Oh, and back to the OP...on the transmission, there are many complaints about the 7GTRONIC hunting for gears or feeling like it's in the wrong gear. That is normal. Also, any hard upshifts between 1-2 and 2-3 are either low fluid or software. The 7G is especially sensitive to fluid levels. And the latest software flash helps fix a lot of complaints.

Glyn M Ruck

Indeed - With the modern car with decent on board diagnostics it makes sense to see if it's storing any codes, especially codes that are below CEL trigger threshold. Tells you far more than your butt dyno about lurking problems.

When I bought my 9000 mile CLK last November the first thing I did after taking the car for a satisfactory test drive was to request the dealer that found it for me connect up SDS so that I could check for stored fault codes. It's probably the most valuable tool you could have in testing a used car you intend to purchase.

We did this prior to them doing their standard 103 point check that all MBSA accredited used cars get prior to sale which includes ensuring that latest software is loaded to all necessary locations & that all TSB’s have been performed. I did all this & my car is on a 8 year maintenance plan (Mobilodrive).

There are no ways I would have signed the "offer to purchase" without the SDS check. Maybe cars are so cheap in the US that you don't care. In SA they are a major purchase in anybody's budget & require the sensible to do due diligence. Here cars are over double the price that they are in the US & Benz cars hold value.

Like Rodney I use a strip of magnetic material to check paint thickness & for filler.

AndyKatz

I do own a code reader, but after checking the carfax for this car, I am pretty relieved. It was certified by MB NYC in late '10, and there are two maintenance reports mentioning resetting the computer. There was also a claim on the extended warranty last year I will ask about, but it seems this car was well maintained.

And, with the warranty (I AM taking the warranty), I should be covered for any future tranny or balance shaft cog issues!

Thanks for all the tips!

Going to check the car out tonight!

billyhead1

what everyone else said: take the warranty...good luck and enjoy your new car!

AndyKatz

Man, I didn't like this car! It didn't ride well, like the shocks were worn, the motor was not smooth, and kinda noisy. There was a creaking from the rear seating area. It was like a car with 80k, not 22k.

The hunt goes on.

Rudeney

Carfax is a great tool to use to negotiate price when it reports accidents, but when it doesn't, it's useless. For example, the C240 I bought for the kid reports no accidents, but when I bought it, I could tell the right rear door had been painted, and now, the rear bumper, and both rear doors have had work, and soon the front left fender will be replaced along with the front bumper. But it will still have a clean Carfax.

My CLK Carfax showed a rear-end accident, but it was just the bumper that was (very) professionally repaired. The front bumper also had some damage (not on Carfax) and wasn't so well repaired (bad clear-coat, and a broken lower shroud).

A paint thickness meter will cost you around $400. It's an electronic gauge that shows in mils the thickness of the coating over the metal. It won't work on aluminum or plastic panels. Most cars read around 5 or 6. The key is to check to see that it's consistent. When you find everything shows a 6, and then one panel shows 9, you know it was repainted. Another thing to look for are "tape lines". Look for over spray on wheel wells. It takes some training, but with the right tools and knowledge, you can be better than Carfax.

Glyn M Ruck

Those paint thickness gauges are neat devices. But even if you don't have one the mag strip gives you a good idea plus the fact that all Benz clear coat has a level of orange peel. If you examine the car in critical light refinished areas always have a smoother finish because the repair shops buff the hell out of the new clear coat. There are always tell tale signs.

Even with only 9000 miles on it my CLK had a few very minor dents & scratches that I wanted fixed. I produced a map of the damage & the paintless dent repair guys did a perfect job. The bodywork now looks new ex plant. I defy anybody to fault it vs. new.

Rudeney

The sad thing is that a good body repair can have better quality paint and clearcoat than the factory (not just talking MBZ here - any make). But because body damage scares people, it's a big point of depreciation. It's crazy that repainting a hood because of road rash will take $1200 off the resale value vs. leaving a bunch of pock marks on it. You can thank the new car dealers for perpetuating this false loss of value due to paint work.

AndyKatz

I have no problem with a car that has had cosmetic damage repainted, as long as it wasn't done by Maco! Even if someone replaces a fender panel because of a dent, as long as the carfax is clear, and the paintwork is top notch, I am OK.

Rudeney

I am the same way. It's "the industry" that isn't.