Glyn M Ruck

The torque converter holds over 4 litres of fluid. That is nearly half the transmission fluid charge & should be changed per WIS. We have found many dealers if you see the W204 forum that ignore the WIS & only do a half change. Not good.

California - As Rodney says it seems you have triggered a limp condition. This is to protect the transmission. You must get this car onto a Star to read transmission codes stored. The TCU is integral with the conductor plate inside the 722.9 transmission. They must sort out what the problem is. If you get speed sensor data implausible you need a new conductor plate. Common on early 722.9 transmissions & not too expensive other than labour. Each 722.9 valve body is flow tested & the data from that is flashed to the TCU for calibration. If they change the conductor plate they need to cross flash that calibration data.

Also. Does your transmission have the latest software flash. That smoothed out jerkiness to zero as in my car.

Good luck!



No longer necessary to replace the entire valve body as long as you cross flash calibration data.

Rudeney

Honestly, it's not rocket science, but it's more than what many DIYer's would want to tackle, mainly because of the lifting of all four wheels, and working under the car with the engine running. For me, that was no challenge, but I just had a hard time getting the temperature to stay right at the proper spot to check the level. It either wanted to stay cold, or if I revved the engine, it quickly wanted to go much higher, then I had to switch it off and wait a good while for it to cool down.

This seems to be a common problem with dealership mechanics. Yes, your transmissions should have a torque converter drain. My understanding is that all
722.9s do. There is a note in WIS that could be interpreted as not all of them having a drain, "vehicles with drain screw...except 722.93". I found that the S550 CGI 4MATIC uses this transmission, but everything else uses a 722.90x or 722.96x. Anyhow, the extra effort to locate the TC drain slows them down (time is money!), and plus, they will claim they are used to the bulletins that came out in early MY2000 eliminating the drain, but that was on the 722.6.

Yidney

I had figured that the temperature would rise quickly, and that I would have a window of just a few seconds to let the excess out and install the drain plug. But using an infrared thermometer, I found that it rose very slowly. Frankly, after my full experience, this is not a job I would trust to anyone else. First, it's not a job you can actually confirm was done at all. Second, nobody else will be as careful as you at cleaning the pan, etc. Third, you have no clue how careful the tech was at monitoring the temperature. Fourth, the Mercedes parts people told me there was no TC drain plug, and the leading indy in town wanted to use 17 quarts, telling me that they did not know either.

motoman

yidney, if you have not yet done it try reading the C63 "trans diff fluid change" in the C63 section. motoman

Rudeney

I was using SDS to monitor the temp. It rose very slowly then peaked somewhere below the prescribe temp. I waited several minutes and it never moved, so I tried running through the gear and revved the engine, which took it way too high.

My sentiments exactly. Maybe we are just too "**** retentive" about this, but I like knowing it is done correctly, and I just don't trust anyone as much as I trust myself.

California

Glyn/Rodney/Yid et all

I did go into limp mode. The dealership could not replicate it, no codes thrown. The mechanic who has check this before like three times since my "torque converter drain plug" drain, said the transmission fluid was perfect.

However, they found the 0060 Camshaft solenoid code stored.

Changed out the magnets.

This is the same mechanic whom I paid big money to check my camshaft sprockets for that problem.

How could the bad camshaft solenoid magnets make me go into limp mode?

WTHeck?

Rudeney

Camshaft magnet problem should not make you go into limp mode. My understanding is that only transmission problems will result in limp mode. Maybe it wasn't true limp mode and just an engine performance problem?

California

I was stuck in gear and could not get out of either first or second gear. Had to pull over. They could see no transmission codes, only that camshaft magnet code.

Glyn M Ruck

The cam magnet should not trigger a limp mode.

Rudeney

I have seen some severe engine performance issues (stalls) trigger limp mode in the transmission, but even then there is usaully a stored code in the TCU

California

I've been having the 'jerky" transmission on start up since the dealership told me they did the full torque converter drain with the drainplug that they did not know existed until you guys pointed it out.

I even had the head mechanic test drive it with me, and tested it twice or three times on separate occasions.

With the information on the same mechanic and someone here not being able to duplicate going down into the engine for the sprockets issue with a boroscope this mechanic said he used, I asked my SA for warranties on the transmission work done as well as the sprockett issue, for my own sake and also in case I sell it, which is looking likely.

Since they swore up and down that the car did not have the cam sprockets issue after looking in with the self identified boroscope; and since they swore as a dealership that they had done the work according to the WIS provided by Glyn and you guys here, they should have no problem warrantying the work for my future buyer or for me.

I do not understand how my transmission got stuck in high gear the other day either, but since I cannot confirm what the dealership is telling me, they will need to warranty the work performed.

Rudeney

If there are no codes, and it's running find now, then I might chock it up to a weird one-time problem.

Maybe you need to find another dealer - since you are in SoCal, you should have about withn an hour's (non rush hour ) drive.

billyget

I have the notirious wine in my clk550need new front pump do i need to change torque converter adwell and

Rudeney

I would not do anything until it fails. It may last for a decade with not issues other than the noise. The office building I work in has about a dozen MBZs in the parking lot and about half of then whine like this.

billyget

[QUOTE=Rudeney;6131828]I would not do anything until it fails. It may last for a decade with not issues other than the noise. The office building I work in has about a dozen MBZs in the parking lot and about half of then whine like this.[/QUOT ok thanks yo know dealers they say this say that may lots of work is changing torque converter hard job

Rudeney

To change the torque converter, you have to drop the transmission. Then, there are special tools use to remove and replace it for proper alignment. That's what makes it a a big job.

caseybalbachan

The revised transmission pan, is it compatiable with the 2007 e350 with the 722.9 trans? Also could you post the part number for the new revised trans pan? The one part number that is posted earlier in the thread in that picture (220 270 09 12) is not matching up to the ones I'm finding online. Thanks

Rudeney

According to EPC, the part number is A2212701212

myclk350

Here the question: Can we just drain the transmission fluid when cold and put back the same amount?

caseybalbachan

Thnks so much!

Rudeney

You could do that, but then you would "assume" that there had been no leaks/consumption of fluid. The best thing to do is a proper level measurement.

776westfield

Hi everyone. I'm new to this thread and will appreciate knowledgeable advice. I have 2005 CLK500 convertible with under 50,000 ml with 7 speed transmission 722901 00 082355. Less than a year ago in April a trusted mechanic recommended a transmission flush. He said filter doesn't need to be changed at this time. The flush was done with flush machine through transmission lines using BG Synthetic ATF. I don't drive this car in the winter. In early November I noticed rough down shifting to 1 gear on cold car. Any advise on that?
Also, in the forum members say that the ATF filter needs to be changed at 39,000 ml. Does anyone have any official Mercedes doc stating that?
If it needs to be done, I'll do it asap. My tran pan is beveled at the back (pic attached) and has # A 220 270 09 12. Does it need to be replaced with the newer one?
I see members use different ATF fluids: MB, Fuchs TITAN 4134, Febi, Shell ATF 134, etc. It looks like Fuchs TITAN 4134 in 4 liter bottles is best for the money. Shell ATF 134 is semi-synthetic, so I'm not sure about it. Any recommendations on the ATF fluid? Thank you for your help.

Yidney

Don't know what BG ATF is. There are only a few fluids that are approved, and I do not think that is one of them. How did your "trusted" mechanic who used the wrong fluid and did not bother to change the filter measure the fluid level at the end? Shell ATF 134 is an approved fluid. That is what is in mine. It is one of the easier approved fluids to find.

776westfield

I'm not sure how he measured the level. I will ask. I assume he pumped in equal amount to what came out. According to the invoice I was charged for 12 liters of the atf. BG application chart says: Mercedes Benz 236.1, 236.2, 236.3, 236.5, 236.6, 236.7, 236.8, 236.9, 236.10, 236.11, 236.12, 236.14, 0019892103, SHELL 3403-4 115, A0019892203, 0019894503, ATF 4134, 0019896803. Where did you purchase Shell ATF 134?

Yidney

The proper method to measure the fluid level is to raise the tranny to a very specific temperature and have the drain plug out and replace it when the fluid is just dripping out. There is a pipe above the drain plug like the pipe in your toilet tank. I ordered Shell ATF online. Too big a pain to find locally.