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Does my sucky sucks at sucking?

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Old 04-21-2013, 08:26 AM
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2023 CLA 250, 2003 CLK320
Question Does my sucky sucks at sucking?

Now that I got your attention

So my regular Mercedes dealer mechanic decided to stop doing work on the site. Just when I have to do the scheduled maintenance on both of my cars

I found 5q containers of 0w40 at Walmart for about $25. Had to visit a few of them as they were sold out in many locations or 1-2 left in stock. Now I have 8 of the containers for two oil changes for the two cars.

I decided to do my car first using my Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus.

Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus : Amazon.com : Automotive Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus : Amazon.com : Automotive

After dealing with some air leaks I managed to extract about 7.4 quarts of oil.

Question is how much do you manage to extract using your 'Mr. Sucky" ?

Last edited by dariusf; 04-21-2013 at 08:28 AM.
Old 04-21-2013, 12:22 PM
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I have the Mitvac and I tend to get about the same. I figure the remaining is a combination of oil that just won't extract due to losing suction, oil in the filter, and usually being down about half a quart between changes.

Oh, and next time you are at WalMart buying the oil, if they don't have it on the shelf, ask one of the guys in the auto center - my local store only keeps a few bottles on the shelf, but keeps cases of it in storage, I guess for their techs to use in the shop.
Old 04-21-2013, 02:48 PM
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cool thanks, I need to take a look at my Mitva. You could hear the air leaking where the oil house connects to it. I made sure the nut is tight but it leaks right where the house inserts. I used some electrical tape and it helped but still I had to pump way too many times. Maybe I should contact the manufacturer and try to get a new connector.

Next on my list, get the wire to make a dip stick
Old 04-22-2013, 11:05 PM
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Yeah, those rubber hose connectors are a weak point. I wrapped my hoses in tape, too.
Old 04-23-2013, 08:52 AM
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Do you remove the filter while it is running? I understand it should be removed.
Old 04-23-2013, 10:09 PM
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You mean remove the filter while the MityVac is evacuating? Yes, that's how I do it.
Old 04-24-2013, 03:57 PM
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yes "remove the filter while the MityVac is evacuating". I have to do my wifes E350 this weekend, will see if I can improve the air leaks
Old 05-02-2013, 07:42 PM
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I changed my oil today and the mityvac was excellent. The engine was warm of course (had driven about 20 miles 30-40 minutes before). I made sure the insertion hose was inserted into the larger one 6 inches +. I inserted the hose and pumped the mityvac until there was resistance to my pumping. In less than 5 min the resevoir was nearly full. It started "spitting" in the time it took me to remove the front engine cover and find my filter tool (buried deep in my tool box)......

I was impressed. This was the first time I used it on the CLK. I've had it for about 1.5 years. It worked great on the lawnmower (Honda) and pressure washer but had not used it on the car. Was in a rush last year and had it done at a local shop.

BTW.... I had to go under the car anyway to change the drain plug and washer. It was leaking. Shouldn't ever have to do that again.....

Someone expressed some concern about chamging the oil from the top; preferring to ensure no "sludge" was left. Since I was under the car anyway, I used the mityvac to see how much was still in the pan...... very little. The remainder in the pan did not go above the height of that lowest ridge on the mityvac, and I had only evacuated the mity vac by switching the directional switch and letting it flow into by old oil container. I had not totally drained the mityvac. Annnnnd, the drain plug is on the side of the pan, which would render some oil left in the pan even if you drained it through the plug.

I also think you are more apt to remove more sludge and crude through the mityvac tube, since it is at the bottom of the pan, than by draining. If one was so inclinded, one could move the insertion tube around while it was "sucking", to get that ugly sludge.

Sorry for the length of the message.....................
Old 05-02-2013, 07:43 PM
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Also. I did not remove the filter before. The darn thing was done before I could get to it anyway.
Old 05-02-2013, 09:38 PM
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Yes, the key to using the Mityvac is that the oil must be hot. If you try to suck cold oil, it takes forever.
Old 05-04-2013, 07:22 AM
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Thank you for posting such detailed experience. My oil was work not hot. Not sure how hot it should be I still need to change my wifes E so will try to do it after she gets back home from driving more then 5 miles. The other issue is the leak that I have by the valve on top of the mityvac. I had to pump quite a bit to get the ~ 7.5 quarts out so I think thats my number one priority to fix.
Old 05-04-2013, 06:35 PM
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There was some "leakage" on mine at the top cover and the vertical reservoir. I noticed some oil drip down the side of the reservoir. It was minor; not enough to run to, and mess up, the garage floor. I thought of tightening the screws on the top of the unit but had a second thought that it may be by design to release "excess" pressure as the reservoir fills. If this is the extent of the leakage you experienced, I would guess that evacuating warm/hot oil will prove satisfactory for you.
Old 05-04-2013, 06:39 PM
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I think if the engine is at operating temp, the oil should be warm/hot enough. Even after a 20-30 min time lapse following a 20 mile drive the oil was plenty hot. My guess would be, up to 40 min after the 5 mile trip should be fine.
Old 05-04-2013, 09:33 PM
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If you overfill the Mityvac, it will suck oil into the valve and it will leak. Also, if it hisses and doesn't hold suction, check the pump cylinder head cap - there are two holes where you can insert a two-prong fork tool (or use a pair of needle nose pliers) to tighten it.

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