So I was reading through some of the threads about transmissions I havent had mine serviced. Its at 63k I dont have any issues with it, but would it be wise to service it? I have the money to pay for it. I was just wondering based on you guys' experiences if I should service it or spend it on mods and what not.
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Kevwood
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- Join DateJul 2010
- LocationA Canadian in Dubai, United Arab Emirates
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- Vehicle(s) I drive'05 C200K SS, '05 Kleemann CLK500K, '08 Hummer H3 & '92 Z34 5sp (track car in Canada)
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I have always serviced the trans in all cars I've owned on a regular basis despite the manufacturers extended period recommendations, preventative maintenance is key IMO. I get my C trans serviced once a year here, it's an extremely hot environment and because I track the CLK I get it done more often, I enjoy the piece of mind. I also get the H3 trans serviced yearly.
Service that transmission every 39K miles or 60K Km's. It will reward you with long & troublefree life. Make sure that they drain the torque converter.
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Noted sirOriginally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
Service that transmission every 39K miles or 60K Km's. It will reward you with long & troublefree life. Make sure that they drain the torque converter.
haha Already figured out who is picking me up from the dealer since they wont give me a loaner since I am not 21 yet.
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Thanks Rodney. I know I'm a little like a stuck record on this issue. Originally Posted by Rudeney
Just in case there was any doubt, +1 to Glyn's recommendation.
It is such an expensive transmission to repair/replace if you neglect it.MB World Stories
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Keep in mind that many rap stars make a very good living scratching those records, playing the same phrases over and over again!
After seeing my freshly changed fluid already turned dark and gooey magnets after just a few hundred miles (had to drop the pan to fix a leaking, improperly seated gasket), I'm singing right along with you.
After seeing my freshly changed fluid already turned dark and gooey magnets after just a few hundred miles (had to drop the pan to fix a leaking, improperly seated gasket), I'm singing right along with you.Quote:
After seeing my freshly changed fluid already turned dark and gooey magnets after just a few hundred miles (had to drop the pan to fix a leaking, improperly seated gasket), I'm singing right along with you.
Originally Posted by Rudeney
Keep in mind that many rap stars make a very good living scratching those records, playing the same phrases over and over again!
After seeing my freshly changed fluid already turned dark and gooey magnets after just a few hundred miles (had to drop the pan to fix a leaking, improperly seated gasket), I'm singing right along with you.
Well a quick question then. I am taking it to the dealership this time. I am mechanically inclined I have worked on every car I have had thus far. Stuff like head gaskest, connectiong rod bearings, trans solenoids, and these were on v6 and I4 DOHCs. How easy would it be to drain the fluid myself? I have a place I can rent auto lift for 5 bucks a day and they supply tools.
All you need to know is in Johnand's excellent DIY service thread. There is also a full procedure in the Wiki including tools required.
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ce-thread.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ce-thread.html
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https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ce-thread.html
Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
All you need to know is in Johnand's excellent DIY service thread. There is also a full procedure in the Wiki including tools required.https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ce-thread.html
THANK YOU SO MUCH. Easier than I thought. I am going to look over it tonight and make sure I am comfortable with it. If I end up doing it I will make a vid or some pictures.
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I did mine earlier this year, and it's worth scoping yours out in advance because some things maybe different. The nut on my pulley was 27mm, not the 32mm or whatever is in the thread, and the drain plug on my torque converter was a different size by 1mm. Also make sure you have a good torque wrench that measures in inch pounds, not foot pounds.
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Originally Posted by Yidney
I did mine earlier this year, and it's worth scoping yours out in advance because some things maybe different. The nut on my pulley was 27mm, not the 32mm or whatever is in the thread, and the drain plug on my torque converter was a different size by 1mm. Also make sure you have a good torque wrench that measures in inch pounds, not foot pounds.
Thank you sir its going on my list of questions for the auto shop guy
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https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ce-thread.html
How do I know which trans is mine? the 7.229 or 7.226Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
All you need to know is in Johnand's excellent DIY service thread. There is also a full procedure in the Wiki including tools required.https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ce-thread.html
The 722.6 is the 5 speed & the 722.9 is the 7 speed.
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MY2006 CLK500s have the 722.9 7-speed. I also did my own fluid/filter change using WIS documentation and Johnand's thread. Here are my details:
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...id-change.html
The process is really not difficult - you drain the pan, drain the torque converter, replace the filter, pan gasket, and some one-time use bolts. Then refill by pumping fluid in through the drain plug in the pan and check the level via the proper overflow drip rate. The only tricky part I had was getting the temperature just right. It seemed that the transmission really didn't want to stay at the prescribed temp. Other than that, if you don't have a lift, then doing this on jack stands can also be a challenge.
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...id-change.html
The process is really not difficult - you drain the pan, drain the torque converter, replace the filter, pan gasket, and some one-time use bolts. Then refill by pumping fluid in through the drain plug in the pan and check the level via the proper overflow drip rate. The only tricky part I had was getting the temperature just right. It seemed that the transmission really didn't want to stay at the prescribed temp. Other than that, if you don't have a lift, then doing this on jack stands can also be a challenge.
Quote:
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...id-change.html
The process is really not difficult - you drain the pan, drain the torque converter, replace the filter, pan gasket, and some one-time use bolts. Then refill by pumping fluid in through the drain plug in the pan and check the level via the proper overflow drip rate. The only tricky part I had was getting the temperature just right. It seemed that the transmission really didn't want to stay at the prescribed temp. Other than that, if you don't have a lift, then doing this on jack stands can also be a challenge.
I have a lift I am going to rent its 5$ a day. The only thing I dont know for sure is if they have a pump to pump the fluid back in.Originally Posted by Rudeney
MY2006 CLK500s have the 722.9 7-speed. I also did my own fluid/filter change using WIS documentation and Johnand's thread. Here are my details:https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...id-change.html
The process is really not difficult - you drain the pan, drain the torque converter, replace the filter, pan gasket, and some one-time use bolts. Then refill by pumping fluid in through the drain plug in the pan and check the level via the proper overflow drip rate. The only tricky part I had was getting the temperature just right. It seemed that the transmission really didn't want to stay at the prescribed temp. Other than that, if you don't have a lift, then doing this on jack stands can also be a challenge.
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Wow, $5/day to rent a lift? That's a bargain. Around here, they rent them for hundred$$ a day, or, there are a few DIY garages that rent a bay, but also hundred$$/day. I did mine on jack stands and it wasn't bad at all. Using the center jack points makes it easy. You can see from my post that I bought an Assenmacher pump. Others have purchased just the screw-in filler tube (Assenmacher sells it for about $40) and then a cheap fluid transfer pump(like this one:http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-u...ump-66418.html)
For fluid, check your local Shell supplier (not the local retail gas station, but the actual supplier) to see if they can get ATF-134 for you. I have heard that they can get it by the case for about $6/qt.
For fluid, check your local Shell supplier (not the local retail gas station, but the actual supplier) to see if they can get ATF-134 for you. I have heard that they can get it by the case for about $6/qt.
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This 7 speed transmission service is one of the best how-to threads I have run across on this site. Very detailed w/ factory instructions, member comments and all.
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For fluid, check your local Shell supplier (not the local retail gas station, but the actual supplier) to see if they can get ATF-134 for you. I have heard that they can get it by the case for about $6/qt.
Yeah perks of the job. Also just to clarify. When in manual it will shift up to six before going back to D. That probably means its the seven speed. I will look up a shell I am in Tampa so I am hoping there will be something. Plus I think there is a mobil store. Worse comes to worse I will just order it like I did with the brake fluid or see if advance auto parts can order it.Originally Posted by Rudeney
Wow, $5/day to rent a lift? That's a bargain. Around here, they rent them for hundred$$ a day, or, there are a few DIY garages that rent a bay, but also hundred$$/day. I did mine on jack stands and it wasn't bad at all. Using the center jack points makes it easy. You can see from my post that I bought an Assenmacher pump. Others have purchased just the screw-in filler tube (Assenmacher sells it for about $40) and then a cheap fluid transfer pump(like this one:http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-u...ump-66418.html)For fluid, check your local Shell supplier (not the local retail gas station, but the actual supplier) to see if they can get ATF-134 for you. I have heard that they can get it by the case for about $6/qt.
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I used a fluid pump from the auto parts store that just screws on to each quart of fluid separately. It was only like $9.95. Wouldn't want do 50 cars that way, but for a one time job, I'd buy it again.
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And you can get much cheaper infrared thermometers than the Fluke brand. I got mine at Lowe's for like $39.95.
If you don't want a Raytek you can get them from Hong Kong & China for $11 ~ $15 on eBay.
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When in manual it will shift up to six before going back to D. That probably means its the seven speed
Yep, "D" is always the high gear. So the 722.6 5-speeds go 1-2-3-4-D. The CLK500 was equipped with the 722.9 7-speed beginning with MY2005.When in manual it will shift up to six before going back to D. That probably means its the seven speed
BTW, did you know the ".6" and ".9" refers to the number of total gears. The 722.6 had 6 gears - 5 forward + 1 reverse. The 722.9 actually has 9 gears - 7 forward + 2 reverse. And before you go hauling butt in reverse to find the shift point, you won't. The 2nd reverse gear is actually a higher gear engaged in "C" mode to enable smoother backups in slick conditions (just like "C" mode start in 2nd gear when in "forward").
