Jerky Shifting on my CLK350
This doesn't happen all of the time...I'd say about every 25 starts it does the jerky shift thing. The transmission fluid is at the correct level according to my mechanic, and it never happens when I bring the car to him and explain the problem...you know, the usual Murphy's law thing.
I hope it's not a trashed tranny...I just purchased the car this spring and really don't want to sink a boatload of money into it already. It drives really nice...no issues except this occasional transmission thing.
I've searched the forum and read something about a conductor plate problem that some have experienced, but I'm not sure the symptoms are consistent with that.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. It's so much better to have comments and advice from forum members instead of throwing yourself at the mercy of an MB dealer and hoping for good news...especially with a transmission.
My car is a daily commute and this would happen to me about once a week. The car would go into limp mode while driving (not right after the car is started); ie: it would stay in one gear, 2nd or 3rd, the least used gear. When this happened, I would have to stop and restarted the engine.
I finally replaced the conductor plate and no more limp mode for more than a month.
I have the 5-speed (722.6) and you probably have the 7-speed (722.9). According to other experts, replacing the conductor plate for the 7-speed is more complicated than the 5-speed. For the 7-speed, other modules have to adapt to the new component.
First thing you have to do is to pull the codes. I did and the codes were posted in my thread.
Last edited by mis3; Aug 23, 2013 at 01:06 PM.
When I purchased the car I was wondering when my conductor plate would go out and now I know.
This is my fourth Mercedes. Really I love these cars but the way I feel now I may have to think twice before I buy another one. But the repair is going end up being about $700 which is not exactly a tiny amount but it's not the end of the world either… I'll get over it. It's the principle. After that I'm sure I'll fall in love with the car again it always happens.
When I replaced my conductor plate, I got conflicting information from the dealership and from the experts in this forum. The dealership said that the TCU has to be reprogrammed for the new conductor plate. This would mean that the replacement of the conductor plate would have to be done by the dealership because of the SDS. The experts here said that no reprogramming required for my 722.6. The experts here were correct and I saved a lot of money by getting it fixed by my indie.

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Since I learned from here that they was no reprogramming required for a 722.6, I went to my indie and the whole job costed me $700-800CAN. I paid $400 alone for the conductor plate at the dealership. The other $300-400 was for labor and the ATF, pan gasket, etc. The ATF pan flush was required because the pan had to be dropped to reach the conductor plate.
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