All 4 discs are warped after all brake pad change. İs it possibly?
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All 4 discs are warped after all brake pad change. İs it possibly?
Hi guys. Had an interesting experience.
My service changed my brake pads 10.000 km (6000 miles) and told me that my rotors were in good condition. After few thousand miles when i was speeding little bit when i started braking there was vibrations on both the brake pedal and the steering wheel and later on the brakes got worst and faded badly.
İt was obviously warped rotos but couldnt get how it happend because i rode my bike nearly all summer and rarely used my car.
İ went to service again last week for routine service A and told them what happend. They told me that İ have to replace all rotos and pads as well ( as expected) İ am not going to talk about the prices but they gave metwo different prices one with the original parts one with the textar rotors/ pads. Original rotor/pad is two times expensive than the other.
One more thing is they installed some textar pads at that time.
Any comment about warping is apprecited and rotor/pad combination suggestion for my 2008 clk 200.
My service changed my brake pads 10.000 km (6000 miles) and told me that my rotors were in good condition. After few thousand miles when i was speeding little bit when i started braking there was vibrations on both the brake pedal and the steering wheel and later on the brakes got worst and faded badly.
İt was obviously warped rotos but couldnt get how it happend because i rode my bike nearly all summer and rarely used my car.
İ went to service again last week for routine service A and told them what happend. They told me that İ have to replace all rotos and pads as well ( as expected) İ am not going to talk about the prices but they gave metwo different prices one with the original parts one with the textar rotors/ pads. Original rotor/pad is two times expensive than the other.
One more thing is they installed some textar pads at that time.
Any comment about warping is apprecited and rotor/pad combination suggestion for my 2008 clk 200.
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2001 slk320
warped rotors
Frustrating but if I had to guess I would say they weren't bedded correctly leaving uneven deposits from the pad on the rotors. Lots of info on the subject. Take a look at the Stoptech site. Hope it works out.
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Firemist O5 CLK55 Cab Silver 05 CLK55 Coupe Tanzanite 06 CLK500 Coupe
Get them rotors turned (machined) and some new pads and try again.
If they are as new as you say there should be no issues.
Any chance you have any stuck brake pistons? Ever flush the brake fluid?
If they are as new as you say there should be no issues.
Any chance you have any stuck brake pistons? Ever flush the brake fluid?
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They checked the pistons - not stuck İ guess otherwise they would have told me i reckon.
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As Hormoth stated, this may be due to improper bedding or break-in of the new pads. Basically, during the break-in period you want to deposit and even coating of the new pads onto the rotors. If the rotors are not replaced with new pads, then they will be very shiny and not accept an even coating of the pad material. Also, the shiny surface reflects heat back into the pads and can crystalize them. When putting new pads on old rotors, they either need to be turned or they need to be "knocked-down", which is the process of sanding them to remove the shine and give them a rough surface ready to accept a coating of pad material. During bedding, it is important not to let the rotors get hot and them stop and hold the pads against them as this can deposit an uneven "imprint" of the pads in one place.
You may be able to salvage this by removing the pads and rotors, then proper knock-down both of their surfaces. If that doesn't do it, and if the rotors are thick enough, have them turned (you can keep the same pads). But I strongly suggest whatever you do, once you have the problem solved with new or re-prepped parts that you do a proper bedding. My favorite method is to drive around at "driveway" speeds while slightly dragging the brake pedal so that the parts heat up. Once you start smelling the brakes, then go to a place where it is safe (and legal) to get up to about 60mph, then brake hard - just shy of activating ABS - but don't quite come to a complete stop. Repeat these hard 60mph stops about 10 times. Again, do NOT come to a complete atop as you don't want to "imprint" the pads onto the rotors.
You may be able to salvage this by removing the pads and rotors, then proper knock-down both of their surfaces. If that doesn't do it, and if the rotors are thick enough, have them turned (you can keep the same pads). But I strongly suggest whatever you do, once you have the problem solved with new or re-prepped parts that you do a proper bedding. My favorite method is to drive around at "driveway" speeds while slightly dragging the brake pedal so that the parts heat up. Once you start smelling the brakes, then go to a place where it is safe (and legal) to get up to about 60mph, then brake hard - just shy of activating ABS - but don't quite come to a complete stop. Repeat these hard 60mph stops about 10 times. Again, do NOT come to a complete atop as you don't want to "imprint" the pads onto the rotors.
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W209
As Hormoth stated, this may be due to improper bedding or break-in of the new pads. Basically, during the break-in period you want to deposit and even coating of the new pads onto the rotors. If the rotors are not replaced with new pads, then they will be very shiny and not accept an even coating of the pad material. Also, the shiny surface reflects heat back into the pads and can crystalize them. When putting new pads on old rotors, they either need to be turned or they need to be "knocked-down", which is the process of sanding them to remove the shine and give them a rough surface ready to accept a coating of pad material. During bedding, it is important not to let the rotors get hot and them stop and hold the pads against them as this can deposit an uneven "imprint" of the pads in one place.
You may be able to salvage this by removing the pads and rotors, then proper knock-down both of their surfaces. If that doesn't do it, and if the rotors are thick enough, have them turned (you can keep the same pads). But I strongly suggest whatever you do, once you have the problem solved with new or re-prepped parts that you do a proper bedding. My favorite method is to drive around at "driveway" speeds while slightly dragging the brake pedal so that the parts heat up. Once you start smelling the brakes, then go to a place where it is safe (and legal) to get up to about 60mph, then brake hard - just shy of activating ABS - but don't quite come to a complete stop. Repeat these hard 60mph stops about 10 times. Again, do NOT come to a complete atop as you don't want to "imprint" the pads onto the rotors.
You may be able to salvage this by removing the pads and rotors, then proper knock-down both of their surfaces. If that doesn't do it, and if the rotors are thick enough, have them turned (you can keep the same pads). But I strongly suggest whatever you do, once you have the problem solved with new or re-prepped parts that you do a proper bedding. My favorite method is to drive around at "driveway" speeds while slightly dragging the brake pedal so that the parts heat up. Once you start smelling the brakes, then go to a place where it is safe (and legal) to get up to about 60mph, then brake hard - just shy of activating ABS - but don't quite come to a complete stop. Repeat these hard 60mph stops about 10 times. Again, do NOT come to a complete atop as you don't want to "imprint" the pads onto the rotors.
You are a god and İ worship you
This weekend İ will try to do that hopefully it works. İt will cost me a grand to renew all the stuff. Sucks
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Listen to Rudeney. I doubt you have warped rotors.
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...and-procedures
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...and-procedures
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W209
Listen to Rudeney. I doubt you have warped rotors.
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...and-procedures
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...and-procedures
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2006 CLK350
Just something to keep in mind, that shuddering can also be caused by worn tie rods. When things start to loosen up in there it will cause this. I had a similar situation and R&R's the rotors and pads only to find it happening again. Then I noticed that I had some play in the right side when I jacked it up. I did the inner & outer tie rod ends and have been good to go since.
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From: Nolensville,TN. USA
E 450 4matic cab MY22
Another thought, discs can be warped by improper tightening of the wheel nuts. Too much torque and uneven tightening can warp the rotors as well as wheels. Some tire jockeys get a little happy with the impact wrenches. I like to check the torques settings of wheel bolts after tire changes or brake work.
Still, I would think these rotors could be turned and be ok. Wheels are another matter.
Still, I would think these rotors could be turned and be ok. Wheels are another matter.
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^^ +1 and ^ +1.
As fo sanding being enough, yes, if the rotor are not warped, it usually is. I use a power sander with 80 or 60-grit metallic paper. Remember, you aren't trying to flatten grooves - just knock the shine off to get to some good bare metal.
As fo sanding being enough, yes, if the rotor are not warped, it usually is. I use a power sander with 80 or 60-grit metallic paper. Remember, you aren't trying to flatten grooves - just knock the shine off to get to some good bare metal.
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W209
Just something to keep in mind, that shuddering can also be caused by worn tie rods. When things start to loosen up in there it will cause this. I had a similar situation and R&R's the rotors and pads only to find it happening again. Then I noticed that I had some play in the right side when I jacked it up. I did the inner & outer tie rod ends and have been good to go since.
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
If tie rod ends were worn you would see cupping & feathering on your tyres.
Do what Rudeney & Stoptech suggest. If you continue to have problems we can look further.
While the wheels & rotors are off get them to check the tie rod ends with a pry bar. It is easy.
Do what Rudeney & Stoptech suggest. If you continue to have problems we can look further.
While the wheels & rotors are off get them to check the tie rod ends with a pry bar. It is easy.
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Hopefully İ will visit the service this saturday to see what will hapen.
Last edited by Yalin; Nov 21, 2013 at 08:15 AM.
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It has been a while since this thread but just had the rotors turned. I am not sure if I have done the right thing, just want to contribute since I always only ask questions
Had the rotors turned yesterday morning. Bought new remsa pads at the back and trw for the front rotors. I wıll get the car tomorrow morning since I am having the front bumper painted. Here are some pics from my experience.
I forgot the cam in black&white mode, indulge me please
As always I hope the experts write down their comment about the process. This is the first time I am having a rotor turned, I still feel little on the unsafe side but all the guys in the shop told me that they have done it million times without any issues.
I wıll let you know how the breaks feels from tomorrow. Hope it helps some friends having the same problem.
Had the rotors turned yesterday morning. Bought new remsa pads at the back and trw for the front rotors. I wıll get the car tomorrow morning since I am having the front bumper painted. Here are some pics from my experience.
I forgot the cam in black&white mode, indulge me please
As always I hope the experts write down their comment about the process. This is the first time I am having a rotor turned, I still feel little on the unsafe side but all the guys in the shop told me that they have done it million times without any issues.
I wıll let you know how the breaks feels from tomorrow. Hope it helps some friends having the same problem.
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There is no problem having rotors turned (assuming the lathe and operator are working properly, of course) as long as they remain in thickness spec. However, by doing so, you just reduced the overall thickness, which means you have less life left in them. Also, the thinner your rotors are, the more prone they will be to warping due to heat. I have almost 70K miles on my original rotors (2nd set of pads - first were OEM, of course, and now I have Porterfields) Yhey are now giving me some vibrations. I did not turn them on the pad change; I just did a "knock-down" by sanding off the shine. I am actually quite happy that they gave given me 70K miles. Anyhow, I just ordered a pair of D+S Frozen Rotors for the front. The rears are still OK for now. I'll let you guys know what I think for the Frozens once I get them on, probably later next week.
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Thanks alot for you comment Rudeney. My car is nearly 60k now, hoping to use them for at least for one more year. I drive calm, hardly speed so I expect a little more.
After I got the car, I have done what you told about bedding the pads to the rotors. There was quıte amount of smoke after I have done it, kinda scared to be honest There is a trembling after 80 miles per hour in the steering wheel, and little shaking on the brake pad at those speeds when braking. It feels much better than before at lower speeds but that issues made me feel little disappointed.
Now my bonnet lifts are dead somehow, bonnet just falls down whatever I do. Everytime I take my car to fix something, they ruin something back. I changed my thermostat with wahler easily, I want to learn more about DIY and want to do much more since I cant find proper Mercedes private services here, they just dont know anything or try to charge you like hell. I would like to learn more about painting as well
Thanks alot for your comment, I offer you to open a private service here, you would be rich with your knowledge and kind, humble manner We lack all of it here unfortunately.
After I got the car, I have done what you told about bedding the pads to the rotors. There was quıte amount of smoke after I have done it, kinda scared to be honest
There is a trembling after 80 miles per hour in the steering wheel, and little shaking on the brake pad at those speeds when braking. It feels much better than before at lower speeds but that issues made me feel little disappointed.Now my bonnet lifts are dead somehow, bonnet just falls down whatever I do. Everytime I take my car to fix something, they ruin something back. I changed my thermostat with wahler easily, I want to learn more about DIY and want to do much more since I cant find proper Mercedes private services here, they just dont know anything or try to charge you like hell. I would like to learn more about painting as well
Thanks alot for your comment, I offer you to open a private service here, you would be rich with your knowledge and kind, humble manner
We lack all of it here unfortunately.
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Thank you for the kind words, Yalin. I would love to be able to enjoy my hobby as a real job, but I simply don't have the energy to do more than keep my car running.
As for those hood (bonnet) lifts, they do fail, and it seems suddenly. Both my CLK and C have failed, just like that.
As for those hood (bonnet) lifts, they do fail, and it seems suddenly. Both my CLK and C have failed, just like that.
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Thank you for the kind words, Yalin. I would love to be able to enjoy my hobby as a real job, but I simply don't have the energy to do more than keep my car running.
As for those hood (bonnet) lifts, they do fail, and it seems suddenly. Both my CLK and C have failed, just like that.
As for those hood (bonnet) lifts, they do fail, and it seems suddenly. Both my CLK and C have failed, just like that.
A guy told me that the hub might be failing or bend and this might be the problem. It is so frustrating to solve something like this. I dont care about any problems but breaks? This really sucks.
Gonna try to do the thing that Rudeney told me again with new brake pads. I will go for Brembo this time to see if it helps or not.
Will check the tie rods again.
I am really disgusted with years of brake problems with my clk.
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I bought the front rotors and pads last year. I dont know if it is in specs or not. Cant believe that I am wasting years long to solve a brake problem.
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Hello again guys.
I dissambled the right front brake pads to check what is going on and if I can clean the area, pistons or whatever.
what I found is interesting. Seems like the piston inwards was kinda stuck and one pad was obviously more worn the other side. I will check all the pads and pistons to see what is going on.
my question is, could it be the reason of the shrudder going on? Also I read what Glynn wrote about the setting the pistons with bleeding or to buy with a new set of front and rear pads.
I used wurth general disc cleaner and another one for cleaning greasing it. Do I need to dissamble all the pistons for a serious cleaning before changing any discs or pads(rear discs need replacement soon)
Another point is, since the steering wheel shows no vibration and only pedal seems to vibrate, could it be just rear discs gone bad?
I dissambled the right front brake pads to check what is going on and if I can clean the area, pistons or whatever.
what I found is interesting. Seems like the piston inwards was kinda stuck and one pad was obviously more worn the other side. I will check all the pads and pistons to see what is going on.
my question is, could it be the reason of the shrudder going on? Also I read what Glynn wrote about the setting the pistons with bleeding or to buy with a new set of front and rear pads.
I used wurth general disc cleaner and another one for cleaning greasing it. Do I need to dissamble all the pistons for a serious cleaning before changing any discs or pads(rear discs need replacement soon)
Another point is, since the steering wheel shows no vibration and only pedal seems to vibrate, could it be just rear discs gone bad?
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If the inner pad was much more worn, you could have a stuck piston. One thing I have seen happen is that the piston develops a ridge in a certain spot. With new pads, that ridge is pushed deeper and does not contact the cylinder walls, but as the pad wears, it eventually moves into the cylinder and sticks the piston to the cylinder wall. If this is the case, I'd probably just replace the entire caliper. YOu could disassemble it and and hone the cylinder and clean the piston, but it's a lot of work.
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If the inner pad was much more worn, you could have a stuck piston. One thing I have seen happen is that the piston develops a ridge in a certain spot. With new pads, that ridge is pushed deeper and does not contact the cylinder walls, but as the pad wears, it eventually moves into the cylinder and sticks the piston to the cylinder wall. If this is the case, I'd probably just replace the entire caliper. YOu could disassemble it and and hone the cylinder and clean the piston, but it's a lot of work.
why is it so hard to do this? It seems like few things to get out and clean. Car is in 120k right now, I will probably go for a whole before replacing calipers.
