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I own a 2004 CLK 320 convertible. As you mention in many forums, the TOP CENTER, LOCK CYLINDER has failed, and it's leaking oil. This is the first cylinder to fail, (and I hope it's the only one )
I live in Orlando, Florida, and i am having problems looking a mechanic or mechanic shop, that will replace this cylinder for me. Do you have any mechanics that works with your parts, and that will perform the job in Orlando ?
I called a couple from www.benzshops, BUT it doesn't looks like they have any experience on this kind of work, (based on my conversation over the phone with them) if you can provide me the phone or name, of a mechanic that YOU KNOW, has already done this kind of work, i would really appreciate it.
My hoses are NOT leaking, but I was told by 1 mechanic, that he would need to run a new hose from the cylinder to the pump, because he said, the Cylinder and hose, it is only one piece!! Looking at Top Hydraulics' website http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/24-w209-clk, it doesn't look like it' s just one piece (cylinder and the 2 hoses) .
Are this cylinders and hoses just 1 piece ? Can i just replace the Cylinder and NOT REPLACE THE 2 HOSES, as they are NOT leaking ? How are the hoses connect to the cylinder,?
Another mechanic suggested CUTTING THE HOSE 4 OR 5 INCHES from the cylinder, AND then re connect it. But i am sure this will not hold the pressure on the hoses. Maybe i am wrong, but it didn't seem to me a good idea.
Talking to this mechanics it's the only way i have to find out if they are REALLY knowing what are they talking about, and how to replace the cylinder.
I already removed the platic paner on the front part of the roof, and saw the cylinder and the hoses, just don't know how easy or difficult it's to replace the cylinder with one of the re build ones, and how to disconnect and re conect the hoses, in a way that they will not leak after i re connect them.
Thank you
03 SL Kleemann, 97 SL320 pano top, 95 Lorinser E320 Cabrio, Ferrari 360, Tesla X
Originally Posted by mbnalo
I own a 2004 CLK 320 convertible. As you mention in many forums, the TOP CENTER, LOCK CYLINDER has failed, and it's leaking oil. This is the first cylinder to fail, (and I hope it's the only one )
I live in Orlando, Florida, and i am having problems looking a mechanic or mechanic shop, that will replace this cylinder for me. Do you have any mechanics that works with your parts, and that will perform the job in Orlando ?
I called a couple from www.benzshops, BUT it doesn't looks like they have any experience on this kind of work, (based on my conversation over the phone with them) if you can provide me the phone or name, of a mechanic that YOU KNOW, has already done this kind of work, i would really appreciate it.
My hoses are NOT leaking, but I was told by 1 mechanic, that he would need to run a new hose from the cylinder to the pump, because he said, the Cylinder and hose, it is only one piece!! Looking at Top Hydraulics' website http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/24-w209-clk, it doesn't look like it' s just one piece (cylinder and the 2 hoses) .
Are this cylinders and hoses just 1 piece ? Can i just replace the Cylinder and NOT REPLACE THE 2 HOSES, as they are NOT leaking ? How are the hoses connect to the cylinder,?
Another mechanic suggested CUTTING THE HOSE 4 OR 5 INCHES from the cylinder, AND then re connect it. But i am sure this will not hold the pressure on the hoses. Maybe i am wrong, but it didn't seem to me a good idea.
Talking to this mechanics it's the only way i have to find out if they are REALLY knowing what are they talking about, and how to replace the cylinder.
I already removed the platic paner on the front part of the roof, and saw the cylinder and the hoses, just don't know how easy or difficult it's to replace the cylinder with one of the re build ones, and how to disconnect and re conect the hoses, in a way that they will not leak after i re connect them.
Thank you
mbnalo,
welcome to the forum! I think this post is aimed at me, representing Top Hydraulics. You are obviously having a leak in the top lock cylinder p/n A209 800 11 72. Let's tackle that together. I am hesitant to recommend any shops, because we have thousands of shop customers, and recommending one would be putting down the others. The job is actually simple enough for you to do it yourself.
It sounds like some of the shops you talked to have no experience with the W209 CLK cabriolet hydraulics. Those who were referring to the cylinder and the lines being one piece are referring to different parts as you would find in the R170 SLK. Sorry that you ran into so much incompetence.
Fortunately, you can indeed disconnect the hydraulic lines from your 2098001172 and send us your cylinder for rebuild & upgrade, or simply order one in core exchange (slightly higher price plus a refundable core deposit) and do the whole removal and replacement job in an hour or possibly faster. http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/w...lock-w209.html
The good part is, you get a part that is far better than a brand new one for far less than what the dealer would charge you. Our rebuilds are better because the seals are much better than the originals, and they will last much longer under the same circumstances.
You are writing that you have already removed the plastic panel on the front part of the roof - that's 25% of the labor! For future readers, here is an illustration of how the plastic panel comes off.
First, with the top down and the tonneau cover open, remove the four rivet-style plastic fasteners as illustrated below:
Removing plastic trim panel to create access to top lock cylinder 2098001172
Next step: pull the trim panel straight up on the four trim clips numbered in green letters:
Now you can see the cylinder inside the locking mechanism - taking the cylinder out of the mechanism is straightforward.
Cylinder removal out of the latching mechanism is easy. It is held in place with two pins.
Here is the cylinder removed from the latch, with the hydraulic lines still attached:
For hydraulic line removal, follow these instructions:
Now zip-tie a plastic bag around the hose ends, so that you don't accidentally get hydraulic fluid dripping onto your headliner. There shouldn't be any more pressure in the lines, but they could leak a little bit when you manually move the roof. You can even lock the roof manually while the cylinder is out. It only takes a 6-mm Allen wrench.
Just for completeness, here is a description of what all we do to this type of cylinder during rebuild & upgrade. Cylinder rebuild is absolutely not a DIY job...
The cylinder ships to you with new o-rings that go on the hydraulic lines, and with instructions on how to install them.
Thank you Mr. Klaus for all your help.
You were right on the money, to future readers, At the time of the posting, i only had the lock cylinder leaking. I purchased it from TOP HYDRAULICS, received my replacement unit, very quickly and I replaced it.
As Klaus anticipated, after 3 weeks of replacing the lock cylinder, the MAIN CYLINDER STARTED TO LEAK. So i decided to buy ALL the cylinders from TOP HYDRAULICS.
AS the first time, received them very quickly, but this time i couldn't replace them myself, so went to a mechanic, to have them replaced for me.
Sent back my defective cylinders, to TOP HYDRAULICS.
I must say the Klaus was VERY VERY HELPFUL, answering all my emails, and questions, about the parts , and the labor.
GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE, I am glad I found you, and save a lot of money, than buying the cylinders from MB. DEALER.
Thanks again Mr. Klaus.
I just have been through this, you will save money if you pull all cylinders and the pump and send them to Clause also replace the lines that he can supply there are a couple that have to purchased from Benz. If the top lock is bad the rest are close behind, the major expense is the time to disassemble the car to access the cylinders so try to just do it once and be done. The cylinders that Benz sells will have the same issue in a few years so have yours rebuilt. I tried to fix one thing at a time and found that when the pressure was restored to the system another cylinder would fail. and the seal particles seem to plug the check valves and the pump valves. All or nothing you cant patch the system up.
I'm in Orlando with a 2004 CLK500 that is having top issues too. What shop did you use? Do you have one that you recommend for service and repairs in the area?
However, unless there is s huge spill from one of your cylinders, you may also add some fluid to the pump one more time, and hope that it can still move the top, in order to create the access you need.
Do you know which cylinder needs to be rebuilt? What are the symptoms?
I'm in Orange County California. I have a 2004 CLK 55 AMG.. when I went to put the top down... oil started leaking from above the front locking*cylinder oil started leaking on me on the drivers seat... I was able to remove the panel and tried to operate with it off and noticed the leak from it.. so I'm assuming it is that one after research it seems that it is 209 800 11 72 front lock cylinder etc...
so how did it work out? My cylinder started leaking today. Top down. Now that was a trick and a half to get trunk to open but it is now. Have ordered the parts and will do two in a week or so. What was your final solution?
Just received my top lock cylinder and install was pretty fast. The longest part was the drive to the store to get the correct torx size to move stuff around. Be sure to keep track of all small parts, they get away very easily!! But shipping was fast and painless.
Do you mean easiest in terms of stress during the open or close process, or leaving it opened or closed? If you when during open/close, they are equal in the effort required. If you mean when storing, then it does not matter to the hydraulics either way, but it's better to with the top closed to keep the canvas stretched out and not folded.
welcome to the forum! I think this post is aimed at me, representing Top Hydraulics. You are obviously having a leak in the top lock cylinder p/n A209 800 11 72. Let's tackle that together. I am hesitant to recommend any shops, because we have thousands of shop customers, and recommending one would be putting down the others. The job is actually simple enough for you to do it yourself.
It sounds like some of the shops you talked to have no experience with the W209 CLK cabriolet hydraulics. Those who were referring to the cylinder and the lines being one piece are referring to different parts as you would find in the R170 SLK. Sorry that you ran into so much incompetence.
Fortunately, you can indeed disconnect the hydraulic lines from your 2098001172 and send us your cylinder for rebuild & upgrade, or simply order one in core exchange (slightly higher price plus a refundable core deposit) and do the whole removal and replacement job in an hour or possibly faster. http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/w...lock-w209.html
The good part is, you get a part that is far better than a brand new one for far less than what the dealer would charge you. Our rebuilds are better because the seals are much better than the originals, and they will last much longer under the same circumstances.
You are writing that you have already removed the plastic panel on the front part of the roof - that's 25% of the labor! For future readers, here is an illustration of how the plastic panel comes off.
First, with the top down and the tonneau cover open, remove the four rivet-style plastic fasteners as illustrated below:
Removing plastic trim panel to create access to top lock cylinder 2098001172
Next step: pull the trim panel straight up on the four trim clips numbered in green letters:
Now you can see the cylinder inside the locking mechanism - taking the cylinder out of the mechanism is straightforward.
Cylinder removal out of the latching mechanism is easy. It is held in place with two pins.
Here is the cylinder removed from the latch, with the hydraulic lines still attached:
For hydraulic line removal, follow these instructions:
Now zip-tie a plastic bag around the hose ends, so that you don't accidentally get hydraulic fluid dripping onto your headliner. There shouldn't be any more pressure in the lines, but they could leak a little bit when you manually move the roof. You can even lock the roof manually while the cylinder is out. It only takes a 6-mm Allen wrench.
Just for completeness, here is a description of what all we do to this type of cylinder during rebuild & upgrade. Cylinder rebuild is absolutely not a DIY job...
The cylinder ships to you with new o-rings that go on the hydraulic lines, and with instructions on how to install them.
03 SL Kleemann, 97 SL320 pano top, 95 Lorinser E320 Cabrio, Ferrari 360, Tesla X
Originally Posted by Pauldean
Hi,
How do l ensure it is the actual Front Lock Cylinder leaking and not just the hydraulic hoses or their attachment to the front cylinder?
Appreciate any help here.
Paul
Hello Paul,
wow, how time flies! This thread is already five years old and you managed to dig it up on the forum. To answer your question first, you would already know if it was a leaking hose, as those tend to fail catastrophically and spray fluid all over the place. In particular, the hoses going to the front lock cylinder normally fail first at the third bow, which would be behind your shoulder when the top is up. The port seals that seal the hoses against the hydraulic cylinder housing normally last a lot longer than the other seals inside the cylinder. Unless your front lock cylinder has been replaced recently and installed incorrectly, it is practically certain the you have a failed front lock cylinder if you are noticing a hydraulic fluid leak in the very front of your soft top.
We have actually come out with a series of DIY videos for the 209-chassis CLK tops, which I am really excited about. Here is the playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...CemIb0SVihtBlV
This playlist includes eleven individual videos:
1) Introduction and overview of the hydraulic system in the A209
Hi all, I have a rather crazy idea. I am considering converting the fully auto top into a semi-auto one. The car is not worth much, so it didn’t make sense dropping almost $1k to rebuild the cylinders. I studied the raise/lowering sequence, and as far as I can tell, the sensors which detect the position of the top components are independent of the hydraulic system. The system proceeds based on what the electrical switches detect. My idea is to substitute out the hydraulic power with my human power to move the top. The exception would be the tonneau cover, which is too difficult to simultaneously raise/lower with only one person, since the one person will be handling the top. (The tonneau rams aren’t leaking… yet) See attached pdf for parts I’m referring to.
Thus my proposal is to a) convert the top raise/lower switch (S84/10 in the pdf) into one that can be stick ON even though nobody is holding the button, probably via a three-way switch, so that the system proceeds while I’m outside lowering the top; and b) plug off all hydraulic lines at the pump except for the tonneau cover rams. (If the system errors out and stops, I could also maybe build an arduino controller to re-trigger the switch every second or something.)
Then, the opening sequence from the pdf would be modified as follows:
Stage 0: Use allen key and unlock top from front. Then flip the modified S84/10 switch from Neutral to Lower Stage 1: Tonneau rams automatically partially raise tonneau to relieve tension on bows S2: I manually raise the bow/rear glass until switch S84/15 sees the bow in fully upright position S3: I already manually unlocked the roof in S0, so cylinder 2 is not needed. The switches register the position is correct for the next step S4: Tonneau rams automatically fully raise the cover S5: I manually lower the bow/rear glass into compartment. S6: I continue to manually lower the top into compartment. S7: I finish manually lowering the rest of the top into compartment. S8: Tonneau rams automatically lower the cover S9: Tonneau rams automatically pull cover completely closed. Now I go back into car and flip the switch back to Neutral.
I understand that using an always-on switch defeats the safety mechanism inherent in having a person manually pressing the button, maybe resulting in pinched fingers, but I am willing to take that risk. I’m a reasonably strong guy so I doubt the top will be too heavy to manually raise/lower.
Before I start ripping things apart, anyone have opinions on whether this will this even work? I just want to know from a technical standpoint (pls, no comments about “ruining the car” - I know it’s not morally right) Will the pump be blowing fuses all day? Is it even possible to plug off the lines?
2000 c230 kompressor special edition, 2004 E320 (sold), 2012 E550 coupe (sold), 2017 C63 sedan
I'm assuming you have a leaky main lift cylinder or 2? Why not just replace the pair of cylinders that has a leak? I just replaced all 7 in my mom's car, the main lift cylinders are a pain, the others aren't terrible though, easy to access and can be done separately from the mains at some other date. So it's not a bad idea to just replace the 2 mains to save some $$ and then replace the others as/if they start to leak, I think replacements from tophydraulicsinc.com would be a few hundred bucks after core return. Every cylinder has at least 2 hydraulic lines going to it, one of the main lifts has 3, that and the fact the system self bleeds leads me to believe it circulates fluid, so not sure how capping a line will impact the flow of fluid through the system.
Last edited by crazy00c230k; 05-04-2021 at 02:14 AM.
08-05-2014, 06:06 PM
