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[QUOTE=Yidney;7056170]You need two things. You need to get the car scanned by somebody with MB's Star system so you don't have to guess why your ESP is on. Second you need an alignment. New bushing can change things quite a bit. Steering wheel position is a physical thing and not controlled a sensor.
But to edit this - try the steering reset procedure and see if that works for the ESP. It may.[/QUOTE
Thanks again for all that you and the other Gurus does here.
I have schedule an alignment and diagnostic. Yes, I tried the reset and it worked. It cleared the "ESP", only to return upon another restart. There was some sort noise coming from the front/rear wheels and brake pedal felt different as it decend down.
Can you offer any insight on this?
Could be a wheel speed sensor or its wiring harness was damaged during the front end work. Regardless, heed Yidney's advice and get the ESP system scanned.
Could be a wheel speed sensor or its wiring harness was damaged during the front end work. Regardless, heed Yidney's advice and get the ESP system scanned.
Thank you. I will. The tech at the repair shop, claims that negative to interfering with any sensor or harness. Will update after system scan.
However; when driving, the steering wheel has to be in slight tilt/turn position when going straight.
Would resetting the steering angle sensor correct both ESP Warning and the Steering wheel position? Or do i need an alignment?
Thanks again
When I had my LCAs replaced, the steering wheel was noticeably offset when I got it back and the ESP light was on.
An alignment fixed both.
As I understand it, one of the ECUs is looking at the steering angle and thinks you are permanently in a slid because of the position of the wheel and freaks out.
When I had my LCAs replaced, the steering wheel was noticeably offset when I got it back and the ESP light was on.
An alignment fixed both.
As I understand it, one of the ECUs is looking at the steering angle and thinks you are permanently in a slid because of the position of the wheel and freaks out.
Thank you. i got some hope after reading your post. you were absolutely right. an all wheel alignment took care of both. esp warning is gone and a straight steering wheel once again.
. An all wheel alignment and ESP is gone to where it belongs.
1. Upper/lower control arms
2. Outer tie rod ends
3. Sway bar and sway bar end links
although the ride of the car has improved, it just doesn't feel 100%
for example, I try my hardest to avoid any rough/ bumpy roads because the car still doesn't seem to absorb the impacts well (like a new car would). It feels tossed around like a piece of meat over these god awful LA roads! Also at high speeds like on the freeway the car seems to be squirmy if that makes sense. I will mention that I have not replaced the shocks, or any suspension components in the rear of the car as I was told by my mechanics that they were in good shape. Not sure if I believe that. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Also, the tires are fairly new and are perfectly balanced and an alignment has been recently performed. My clk currently has 117k.
tell me what I need to do to make this car drive like a dream again. I'd hate to get rid of her. Thanks
^^^ +1 on the alignment. It's a MUST after replacing those suspension parts. If that doesn't do it, then at that mileage, I'd say new shocks are a good investment.
I echo what the guys said above. I replaced all these suspension parts plus the shocks at the 92,000 mile mark on my 2005 CLK 320 since the roads here are terrible and the difference was night and day!
The bushings and ball joints are pre-lubricated and do not have any capability for adding any additional lubricant.
You will have to lift the tires off the ground and remove them. When torquing the bolts on the bushings, you need the vehicle weight on the wheels, so ramps could be used, or, with the chassis supported, gently lift the hub with a jack (that's what I did). The center jack pint (the big rubber puck under the engine) is a wonderful way to lift. Use a low-profile hydraulic jack under there to lift the entire front end, the place jack stands one each side at the jack points.
Question. How much do you need to lift the hub to set torques? I will have the car on a Jack on the center pick and Jack stands. I was going to use the scissor Jack to hold the hub.
What I do is use my hydraulic floor jack to lift from the center puck, then slid jack stands in under the side jack points, and then remove (or lower) the floor jack. I used the floor jack to lift under the steering knuckle until the jack stand under the frame was loose. Basically, the weight of the car needs to be on the suspension.
Ok that's what I thought. Seems a little daunting to be honest I'm a little worried about where to position the Jack on the hub so I dont damage anything.
So I just get it to take the weight of the Jack stand and I'm good to them torque all the suspension bolts?
Sorry for so many questions. I'm pretty capable but just never done suspension before. I'm sure it will be all good. I have all the exact tools and have watched several videos and write ups
Did you install new control arms, or just replace the bushings? There is no way to remove the upper control arm's ball joint for the hub without removing the shock from the hub.
Sorry , have to disagree , replaced all 4 last year and i definately didnt have to remove the shocks ! My only issue is , i was a cheap skate last year and bought a complete set off ebay . Hense barely 1 year later , i am Having to do it Again . lesson learned ! ! !
02-14-2017, 04:36 PM
